Chanmenie

So have filled in Jeremy's Heat loss spreadsheet does this mean my heat loss is 3.4 KW per day in December 2 -10deg ? if so what size heat pump should I be looking at

Hi could someone please point me in the right direction to find Jeremy's heat loss calculator spreadsheet

Thanks Joe, yeah I was concerned about one of the doorways getting very congested where the pipes would go to the open plan kitchen living dinning area I won’t need to go through loadbearing walls as there aren’t any internally. yeah that was my plan also.

200mm PIR, I just prefer to staple the pipes to the PIR than tie to mesh

Quick question, if the UFH pipes are at the bottom of a 120mm slab can the pipes go under the internal non load bearing walls ?

Unfortunately I have a Mac computer so loopcad not an option, unless I can borrow a windows laptop from somewhere

Hi Can anyone recommend a company for UFH design and supply, I know about Wunda, but are there any other really reliable places I could go, or with help from you guys could I go full DIY. I have a trade account with City plumbing but would need to know what I should get, to install a reliable system.

You are in same boat as I am, so you cannot proceed above slab level. As stated by the condition.

Do you have a drainage condition ?

Thanks, that’s good then

So do the new regs apply to all builds at the time the new regs come in or does it depend when you are granted regs approval ?

That makes sense thanks guys, I’ll check with BCO

It would come to a lot more than 2 If the other guys responded there have been a few threads on discussing UFH pipes in the slab

Yes joe I had similar thoughts having decided against feeding toilets and washing machine, I will use a tank to catch the rainwater off the garage and use it for car washing, gardening etc

How critical is the recommended 50mm air gap on a cold pitched roof. my rafters are 197mm and I’d like to use 150mm PIR but that would only give 47mm air gap. I assume I could in theory pack the rafters with say 6mm ply but that’s a lot of work.

Hopefully someone more knowledgable than I will be along to answer that, but I can’t see there would be much difference, other than a 50 or 75mm screed will heat up much quicker but will also cool down much quicker. Because I’m using an ASHP which are low temp low flow the slab gives more thermal mass which reduces fluctuations once heated up.

Yes if you go to the added expense of large really efficient filters then it should be ok, but the companies that sell the systems don’t tell you that. I used to keep Koi carp and the water quality in my pond was very good, but I had a huge expensive filtration system to keep it that way.

I’m putting the UFH pipes on top of the insulation so they are in the slab, lots on here have done that or tied the UFH pipes to the mesh in the middle of the slab. no need for screed

Why a slab and a screed ? That’s like doing it twice put the slab on top of the insulation and use it as the floor, save the cost of the screed and less to dig out

I was advised against it by a guy who worked for a water authority and inspected the things, he said he’d never have one. He’s inspected houses where the cisterns have gone black and stink. When you look at the crap and bird shit that gets washed off your roof.

Not expecting any decisions any time soon waiting to speak to my planning officer if she ever returns my calls will keep you posted

There are some bad reviews about the soft timber and poor workmanship, I guess that’s why they are cheap

They havent actually said that. They don’t know what the answer is yet.

I’m affected by this, my planning was approved but I cant go above slab level because I can’t get the drainage plan condition discharged. feeling pretty pissed

Thanks for the replies and info guys I'm still undecided on where to fit the pipes, I am considering upping the Celotex XR4000 to 200mm, should give U value of 0.10 W/M2k