Barney12

Do not encourage her!!

That was my initial thought but I was concerned about impeding access. I'll have to read that bit of part M again. The "get straight in the shower downstairs" after gardening/walking is the main driver. The dog issue is catered for as they have their own thermostatically controlled outside doggy shower!!

What is the driver for wanting to build using timber frame? There are lots of plus points on a new build but I'm not sure many of those stack up for the "upstairs" of an existing house.

OK, so further to the input above and talking to SWMBO I've had a rethink. It seems the idea of a downstairs shower is a big vote winner so how about this? I really don't understand this "the door must open outwards" rule in Part M. In our layout I actually think its more restrictive! I'm really trying to avoid putting a window in the plant room as that will be a planning change, but is it essential?

I've just checked Part M. Shower provision is no longer required for Cat.1: Requirement M4 ‘Sanitary conveniences in dwellings’ has been replaced by new requirements: o M4(1) Category 1: Visitable dwellings o M4(2) Category 2: Accessible and adaptable dwellings o M4(3) Category 3: Wheelchair user dwelling

Give me wasps over bats any day!! Mind you I REALLY don't like flying stinging things. I'd be straight on the phone to pest control! We've had quite a few hornets in the garden this year, I think there must be a nest in our adjacent woodland. They scare the bejesus out of me!

Looking at those pictures I see it is a "double bubble" bath. Now I'm understanding the attention to detail on this project. Don't forget the candles and piped music

Some really good advice there guys. Especially the point about accessing coats whilst people are having a dump etc Im going to look at the design again. Be right back after I've completed the required summit meeting with SWMBO.

The one I fitted in the last place had separate hot and cold flow. Each was simply connected to a deck mounted valve. Thus no 'mixing'. Where they are good is of you have a relatively large bath with matching ends. This design facilitates 'double bubble' baths without one person suffering the tap end.

Sorry, I'm probably being thick but I can't see any reference to any form of valve control that would allow you to alter hot and cold flow. EDIT: I've just looked again. I see the title appears to reference the fact but the detailed description doesn't. The first two pictures seem to also be different than three and four. The first two have what looks like a lever which I concede MAY be a valve control. The third and forth don't show the lever.

Hi All I'd really appreciate the collective views of the forum on this one...... This is the current design of our ground floor WC, its fairly large to incorporate storage (left of door) and plant (right of door): BUT....I'm starting to think that it might be better to create a separate small plant room. I can steal a small amount of space from the adjacent utility and create a space something like the below. (Ignore the window position which needs centralising). Which would work better? I like the idea of the plant being in a separate room. Realistically it will house: 1. MVHR Unit. 2. Thermal Store /Cylinder (TBC exactly what) 3. Electric Consumer Unit. I cant make the WC much smaller as the boss doesn't want to loose the coat/shoe storage. TIA.

Only the bottom one has an integrated mixer valve. the Sundley one will need some form of deck mounted valves. Something like: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pegler-Pulsar-Deck-Mounted-Side-Valves-/282043245846?hash=item41ab166516:g:W3UAAOSwQjZXPwvL

We have three . That wall will eventually be stone faced and the boxes will have timber doors to hide them. They are way too fugly! I bought a hockey stick only to find that our three phase sized incomer doesn't fit in a stick so they just draped it down the wall! They didn't even put a single clip in!!

+1 our garden is well watered dont read any further if you are having your tea.......... ......ok you were warned: when we first came to this plot we had no connection to the mains, well we did but the pipe had collapsed and the 1950's bog didn't work and had long since dried up. So, I used to place a carrier bag in the bowl. Do what I needed on the rare occasion i need to make a deposit. Tied the bag and chucked it in the fire bin. Simples

P.S. They came from TLC and were under £35 each. They don't appear on the website and think they might have been updated to this model: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CGFS100.html

We did ours in metal. Three reasons: 1. On the better side of the regs (however you read them) 2. Simpler/neater termination of SWA. 3. More robust in an external meter box. OK,third one isn't really a great issue and actually no.2 was probably the biggest factor.

I hate to be the killjoy but I would personally go to the effort of getting a certificate of lawfulness. We spent close to three years getting permission from the national park to replace our house and it was (as most people find) a fairly tortuous process. A few hundred pounds getting a planning consultant to draw up your plans in line with pd will just save all the heart ache when someone (and in conservation areas someone will!!) complains or notifies the authority. Cutting this corner just isn't worth the inevitable heart ache. just my 2p's worth.

Why is that? Confused.com

The best thing is to buy yourself a decent spray suit. Something like: https://www.amazon.co.uk/MICROSAFE-LARGE-BOILER-Disposable-Coveralls/dp/B00L38JPZO/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1472501323&sr=1-1&keywords=spray+suit nitrile gloves on your hands and then masking tape the sleeves to the gloves. Add to that a decent dust mask and goggles and you'll be reasonably OK. Now for the most important part........wash with COLD water after you've finished. Hot water opens the pores of your skin and makes the itching worse!

PMSL!

2 degrees is 3.5% thus 1:29.

I'm no expert but what we did when we blocked up an old door on the house we are now demolishing was simply remove the old door lining and fill with lightweights on their flats. That part of the house was solid wall so it seems to make sense and as the lintel was remaining in place there were no structural issues to worry about. The only other thing we did was lay a peice of DPC lapped up the sides on the bottom before the first course. But mainly as we had a roll laying arround

If the walls are reasonably good and level then why not just install some K-panel arround a standard shower tray? Cheap, easy to clean and will do the job well. i have assumed in writing this that asthetics are fairly low down on the list of demands as its not exactly "pretty" but certainly very functional. http://www.claddingwarehouse.co.uk/hygienic-pvc-wall-cladding?gclid=COu8-c-73s4CFeMy0wodJDQMyQ if you wanted to go a little more up market then the shower panels can be had in 900mm widths which again would probably be cheaper than the all in one pod: http://www.claddingwarehouse.co.uk/decorative-bathroom-cladding

Personally I'd knock up a few temporary windows with with CLS (or batons) and 9mm OSB. Cost is going to be circa £5 a sq meter so not much in the grand scheme of things?

Yet another on the bandwagon. Yet more early adopter gambling! My biggest issue is "will the one you choose still be there to honor any warranty?".