Barney12

No! I assuming coupling is frowned upon?

I'd forgotten its for a plant room. Asthetics do rather move to the bottom of the list then.

I was trying not to be negative so resisted replying. But as you pressed me...... I don't like them. But, it's purely down to asthetics. Our barn conversion (which we now rent) has the pine units and 14 years on they still look as good as they day they were installed even in the bathrooms. Edit: I should add I'm not a fan of uPVC Windows full stop.

Hmmm, it would appear to lack curb appeal The planes are cool though.

This looks like a great design. I wouldn't worry about the static caravan. At worse you'll be amazed and how fast they can be demolished!

I'm staggered at the incompetence of that design. I know nothing about UFH but frankly most of the errors are common sense. I've said it time and time again but quite how the "average man" is supposed to navigate the complexities of heating and DHW in a passive new build is beyond me.

I'm sure @Nickfromwales will be along soon but in my experience...... the tile adhesive will soften the emulsion and you'll end up with a very poor bond. If they don't fall off you'll certainly be able to pull them off with a sideways glance ive also foud that scoring can make it even worse as you aid the moisture from adhesive getting in behind the emulsion. Plus the actual surface area of adehsive to plaster is going to be minimal. I guess the degree of issue will be partly dependent on size and weight of tile. A few tiles for a splash back probably won't cause huge concern but much else and I'd be finding a way to remove the paint. As @Onoff said sanding is an option and a belt sander with 40g will make light work of it.

They look great!

Power Over Ethernet. In other words the power required for the unit is carried on the same cable (cat5/6) as the signal. Thus very simple to set up / install.

Oooooh I have another question [sticks hand in air excitedly :)].......... So if you use these manifolds for each hot and cold outlet does that negate the need for isolation at the tap? Seems to be a good solution for maintanence at each fitting?

OK no next potentially daft question....... Why the short length of copper pipe on each branch?

so...... The main benefit of this type of setup is maintainable pressure at all outlets? Presumably the main drawback is the sheer amount of pipe to feed each location?

Solar panel array finally commissioned yesterday afternoon. I flew out to the US this morning and I'm currently sat in a bar drinking weak beer but I can see on my iPhone it's been sunny back home. Look at that lovely electricity Isnt technology getting amazing !

The "warranty provision" clauses you refer to are pretty standard fare for all manufacturers of built environment products. You will only achieve one thing by studying them carefully; raising your blood pressure! The reality is that if you've reached the stage of relying on T&C's its probably already gone too far! Remember that most big companies will certainly be able to afford better lawyers than you! You'd be better finding a long standing manufacturer with a good reputation who you can "trust" (and thats not a legally binding term) to support the customer. The only real option for you if you want to have real visibility of materials and quality is to find an artisan maker who you can go and touch and feel. But be prepared to pay for it! As for BS standards, trade bodies and groups. Well just remember who funds them! Sorry thats all a bit dark but after 16 years linked to the building products industry you learn a huge dose a realism. and........look on the bright side. You could be specifying uPVC windows and thats FAR more murky in terms of quality/service/repair.

+1 Soda is by far the best option but as stated isn't really practical for DIY. You could try a brick acid but it's a bit hit and miss and often ineffective on soot. Crazy as it might sound but if your set on the brick finish then it might be cheaper to buy some reclaimed bricks and reface! Personally I think I'd line and plaster it. Perhaps spend the money you've saved on a nice oak mantel beam / floating shelf. Plenty options on EvilBay. It will provide a nice contemporary look.

Ran out! Ecologist and LPA have them all

Ideal. Thank you.

This https://www.sitebox.ltd.uk/makita-bo4553-orbital-palm-sander-quarter-sheet-240-volt-only-oMAK_BO4553 seems to suggest the pad size is smaller to allow 1/4 sheet clamping so you could just buy standard sheets and cut into 4

This is probably a really daft question but is there a rule of thumb as to how much volume/weight of hardcore comes from demolition? our local 'digger man' who I know and trust has agreed to demolish our old house with his 20t digger. He'll also remove all footings using a pecker as required. he's also said that he can "munch" (technical term) the blocks/concrete/bricks down to roughly 4" (in old money) using a bucket crusher. ideally I don't want any muck away and we have plenty of land to loose it on and quite a few landscaping levels to create. But how do I work out what volume I'll end up with?

Oh so not a landing pad but a football pitch

If you need something more "refined" for joinery work etc then you can't really beat SIA 1960 or 1919 http://www.draketooling.co.uk/Products/abrasives_sanding_rolls_1960 the 50m roles are actually good value considering the quality.

That's a 1/4 size. (Standard sheet is 280x230mm) But does that size allow for clamping (I don't know the model of sander) or do you need hook and loop for that size? if to use the clamp you need longer then rolls is the way to go. If for general use there is nothing wrong with Flexovit. http://www.toolstation.com/search?searchstr=33731 43484 11819 40207

I wouldn't go with standard chipboard. I'd go for the moisture resistant stuff, standard chipboard is like a sponge. Glue the joints to prevent any later squeak and screw down well. Also I like the 22mm stuff, feels nice and solid over 18mm. http://www.jewson.co.uk/timber/sheet-materials/chipboard/flooring-chipboard/products/FH22C4TA/moisture-resistant-caberdek-chipboard-22-x-600-x-2400mm/ the only down side is its darn heavy

Thanks Ian, that's exactly as I see it but its good to hear a third party confirm my thoughts. I'll just need to keep plodding through the red tape. I'm also going to talk to MBC to see if they have any experience. Bottom line I'm just going to have to get design changes agreed by the park and the ecologist Your last question is a good one.

Yes, all correct.