Barney12

Alas “joe public” in their masses are highly unlikely to be reading this forum. Hence why the mass developers are selling tens of thousands of units a year. We here are the significant minority!

no but there is a fireplace with a disused gas tap so perhaps once but it’s right at the other end of the building to these vents.

This a post for my general interest. The pics below are from a friends bungalow built in the 80's. Its a well build house (private small builder) and on the two elevations they've put huge air vents in the walls. One of them is in a bedroom (N) and strangely ones in the back of a built in wardrobe in the dressing room (E). There is no sign of damp, past or present. Standard cavity construction. Both of the vents look very much as they've been their since it was built. Nothing on the South or West elevations. As you can imagine they are somewhat drafty! All of the windows were replaced a couple of years ago so they all have trickle vents. My thoughts are block the buggers up (being careful not to bridge the cavity)? Anyone disagree? But was this a standard design element for regs back then?

Slightly related but visited a friend on Saturday who had moved into a new build (major developer). He commented that the lounge was drafty...........? Found 3 windows like this. QUALITY!

Another question. Is there a simple way to tell if it is inverter driven? Just spotted this one: https://coolenergyshop.com/collections/pro-range-heat-pumps/products/cool-energy-pro-range-8-41kw-stainless-heat-pump-model-ce-h8 I think we've discussed Cool Energy on this forum before with somewhat mixed views?

Just bumping this thread as I'm about to hit the button on my ASHP. 9kw unit required with the ability to do cooling. Must be an inverter model. I was drawn to the relative value of the new Samsung 6 Gen units. In particular the now 7 year warranty as standard.........Well of course that is until you read the small print which basically says "12 month warranty only unless installed by a Samsung registered installer" and of course all the registered installers are MCS accredited and thus the price ends up being doubled by that fact alone! ☹️ Has anyone managed to find one either cheap OR a brand name without a rip off warranty?

just use some big chunky cable ties as your temp fixing. Once you’ve run all your cables use the band as a final fix. Simples.

Fitted 3 to my barn conversion. Aqualisa Quartz, supposed to be the best, very expensive. Over 10 years all 3 failed (one unit twice). The control boxes have no real serviceable parts so you have to buy a swap out unit which is easy to do but more £££’s. In the current place just went for Hansgrohe units with the first fix back boxes. Simple to fit and a lot cheaper. Works the same!

Again it’s very much a question of what functionality you want. Single room? Whole house? Logic control? Philips Hue has now become really quite robust and provides a good level of functionality at a relatively low cost. As it uses the Zigbee protocol you can also connect (with limited functionality in some cases) other brands of light. The new IKEA smart lighting system is compatible with Hue as one example. If you’re looking simple remote lighting in a main room or outside then the Quinetic system is functional: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Quinetic/index.html Wide ID have a good range too and will give you scene control etc etc http://www.wisecontrols.com Going up a level then there are the Grafik Eye and Rania products from Lutron.

Hi, I’m not familiar with the control logic/programming for Loxone. It would be worth heading over to the automated home https://www.automatedhome.co.uk website and having a read there. The guy that runs the site is currently doing a self build and is specifying Loxone. https://www.automatedhome.co.uk/automated-home-2-0/automated-home-2-0-12-loxone-will-power-our-new-smart-home.html As for alternatives then Clipsal Cbus is the route I took (and have installed in 2 previous houses ) and certainly is capable of DIY. The programming is relative simple at a basic level but more complex logic requires the use of the logic engine which is based on Pascal but the software does have wizards for creating basic logic. As you have discovered it gets expensive quickly and understanding what functionality you want now (and potentially in the future) is key. If your main aim is lighting control then there are lower cost solutions.

yep ?

If you're really sad* you also have a column on your spreadsheet to record payment method (card, BACS, PayPal etc) and then another column that records its reconciled to said statement of said payment method. By ticking back said statements you also catch anything you've paid for where a receipt/invoice has gone astray. *I'm referring to a friend of mine. Honest, I've not done this, really honestly.

This and some double sided tape. if you’re going to attach one to SWMBO then be careful where you stick it. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07CNZR2Q3/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_bIxQDbNGJZTRF

Very wise. My most recent “weekend warrior*” injury was to sink a jig saw blade right into the top of the front of my finger THROUGH the nail and nail bed. It seriously fecking hurt! On the plus side because I cut through the nail bed the nail has grown back with a rather funky permanent valley in the middle of the nail. ? Yes, I know never have your hand in front of a blade or saw. I know all the rules, I just ignore them too often ? *weekend warrior is the nickname given by the nurses at my local minor injury unit for tw*ts like me. ?

The developers standard way of sticking two fingers up to creditors. Set up as subsidiary with minimal assets, ensure you don’t sign any cross company guarantees and then when it all goes wrong, chuck into administration protecting all the parent companies assets and f***ing the creditors and often smaller investor.

Many of them now actually have eps cores to reduce the weight. As Peter says they are not structural.

.......... his wife must love him, he never finishes ?

Don't do it! As good as those HEP manifolds are they tend to hammer terribly if you restrict them.

4 episodes ? I truly hoped you played Grand Designs Bingo. Plenty of game cards on the net like this one:

As Jeremy says, try and create the hole at an angle. The Cold form bends do work very well at creating a reasonably tight radius without kinking. I'd also be putting a sleeve (or wrap in wadding) where it passes through the block work but I've seen plenty of "professional" [cough] installs where they don't bother.

ah yes correct. A niche was built for the sole purpose of housing the full height units which only protrude 30mm from the wall face with a frame around the doors. As a result of that and the lighting behind the protruding frame they appear to float off the wall.

Having been in a small plant room with @Nickfromwales for numerous hours I can tell you he will have NO problem with F Gas! Arse like a sewer ? ?

how much are we talking? We can crowd fund a set for @Nickfromwales in return for special favours forum discount servicing.

Sorry, I’m not following you? (It’s early ?) What right corner problem?

I'd always assumed it was down to Kevin McCloud