TonyT

Is it a timber floor/ joist system? Cause you could have ground floor lighting under your floor with your power cabling. common when flats were wired. something else to watch out for!

How old is the property?

Your fault codes can be looked up online, don’t think you get an H code, the other looks like it points to an external temp sensor. has any of the wiring been altered recently since the installation was completed?

Looks like you have green only earth sleeving so it’s looking like this part of the installation could be over 50 years old. worth thinking about if you are planning new kitchens etc.

You still get cooker switches to fit these large back boxes MK K5011 for the MK version

Would prefer to call them A2A than ASHP But agree they are a game changer.

What’s screws would you use? interested as I thought you should only use nails to prevent shear?

Got to live up/down coke can lights, keeps sparks in work for years changing them due to water ingress

The ability to fix a back plate and thrn secure the light To the back plate. all lights in my opinion should have a conduit box or architrave box fixing to make It easy to terminate cabling.. and get a secure fixing

Not really, open the door a bit of fresh air in if you are worried about dying due to power failure on equipment

Just spray the sensors to suit the decor. ive done this with CCTV to blend them iin

You have a power failure, open the door for a bit, problem solved

Boiler servicing is boiler servicing to me. balancing/ optimising is another visit

No heat= No flow of hot water in the circuit. turn the upstairs that is working off/pit thermostat to a temperature lower than the room temperature and put thermostat for other circuit up a few degrees than room temp, no weather compensation just heating on full and get all the energy from the boiler/pump working on that circuit. at The boiler is that an a brass air vent? getting any air from that? who’s to say there is sufficient water in the UFH, might be best to blast mains water into the UFH one loop at a time to also remove air locks

Could you fully insulate, then strap the ceiling with timber, the void between the plasterboard and insulation will be sufficient for modern LED lights

Actually I wouldn’t, why would I want to get worked up about other people builders.

Loop line and neutrals at switches and take 3 core and earth to lights. future proofs switch and light position for permanent feed

I would be more worried about your clothes line pulling the cladding off than taking photos of your neighbours garden…..

Have a look at greenwood or vent axia as a starting point

Does the gate opener not have a light connection? seen that in the past.

your meant to strip the bricks out to remove the heater. how is 7.5p a kWh expensive? It’s the same price as my gas? if people can’t figure out storage heaters, basic gas central heating systems they have no chance running a heat pump.

7.5p off peak with Octopus

Fit storage heaters chargered via off peak cop 4 compared to standard peak electricity. No moving parts, no maintenance easy to control now that’s KISS…

Just have a back board ready, biscuits tea and be nice to the jointers. they will generally sort you out if they can

The tray would have a fall built into it,