TonyT

Go Gas, if you are living there for only 3 years that would be my choice unless for environmental reasons you feel you cannot A unit of gas will probably cost 1/4 of what a unit of electricity will be and you won’t get a CoP of 4 without a lot of extra detailing.

Do it at the main flow and return, the heating pumps only push the water about the heating circuit

You typed the first 9 words on your last post that made sense the rest is jibberish , I’m taking a break from this thread again.

Do a Colin Furze?

Best to connect up the cold mains feed to the manifold and push and airlock out with mains pressure water rather than altering the system with temp pipework this would be the first elimination step

quire right but instead of providing the info we all hoped you went on a new tangent of setback! jesus man, listen to what people are saying

Yes, I remember you like to sleep, but the heating has to be given a chance to ramp up, along with you taking temperature readings at the same time.

You first of all have to prove the system functional and all the components. given the history of your install it would be better for you to put the heating on, not auto etc just plain on all the time once it’s functional then start using set back

No I meant an air lock in the pipework supplying the radiator from when the boiler was changed out to the ASHP.

https://www.vaillant.co.uk/downloads/aproducts/controls/vrc-5/vrc700-user-manual-0020200782-03-1000692.pdf user manual and you tube video attached for everyone

What about an air lock in the pipework at the furthest away radiators?

I prefer GU10’s, to many fittings fail and the whole thing has to be removed and replaced also ensuring replacement fits in with existing. Find it far easier to fit GU10 lamps and replace a lamp as and when required.

https://source4me.co.uk/calculate_brick_block_mortar.php

What’s the make and model of your controller/ programmer unit so we can help

Yes, sorry that’s always my plan, as I don’t like plasterboard fast fix boxes. I prefer a dwang/noggin with a box fixed securely. also better if you have flush plate accessories as they then go flush with the wall, as with fast fix, there is then a lip.

Sorry not following.... what’s pb? I used pro Clima uni tape

I have a small cupboard above a door which houses, the incoming BT line( copper). incoming TV aerial. I then have cabled away from this central point, for example plenty of TV points wired when we were rewiring, made off into wall plates in each room and an F connector near the splitter, if TV is required, it’s connected in, if old one isn’t, it’s removed same idea for data. keeps it easy to manage the intruder alarm dump box lives in this cupboard too

I would be more inclined to take a metal box before fitting to the wall and wrap it with air admittance tape. then fix the box to the wall and bring cables into box, then seal the 2 box fixings and 1 cable penetration. Same outcome considerably cheaper.

You need to balance the heating system with a couple of thermostats on the flow and return.

Faulty rain water goods, Faulty Roof covering , or interface between the existing building and new photos of external would help

Exactly. We use it only on earth rod connections to prevent corrosion, I prefer not to get too close when the guys are fitting it

Denso tape is evil stuff and should be avoided at all costs!!

providing this information to everyone will help diagnose the problem, maybe solve them and definitely provide evidence to installers, governing body, valiant that you have done everything to help. I imagine the installers think you are a nuisance and are just f&&king you off, so take them out of the equation and go higher as others have said, but evidence is required...

I would replace the tank and ensure the coil it has is sized for a heat pump so in future the tank can stay when the boiler packs in. until then insulate insulate insulate

If you have a flexi liner, hope it’s installed the right way and the pipe isn’t upside down