TonyT

Probably best to do some remedial work on the VCL too and tie it into the velux frame before fitting the extra batten.

You are always going to see the patch, unless the whole drive is redone which probably isn’t proportionate to the damage.

Put a 25mm timber in, to take up the gap

What’s the drive way made out of?

The photo is fine. THe DNO cut out fuse protects the first 2.5 m or up to 3m it varies on DNO. Your switchgear protects the tails to the new consumer unit, so it’s all looking good. the worst thing you can do is bring all the cables down together at the consumer unit and tape/tyrap them together in one group as the cables in the middle won’t be able to dissipate their heat to free air, but to other cables. So they are classed as touching. So better to have several groups of cables than 1 big one.

What about making the floor to ceiling height different to the normal 2.4m designed to fit a sheet of standard plasterboard( appreciate you get larger sizes)

Opposed to ‘singles’ which are generally used in conduit/trunking installations. copper conductor with single layer of insulation

Copper conductor with two layers of insulation

No restriction in meter tail proximity to other circuits, unless I would say they are grouped together and you have thermal issues, as the tails will be carrying the full current of the house.

Yes, it does lead to the that was damaged in transit not by us installing it ‘conversations’ i suppose every window could be inspected for damage on site on arrival and then advise the fitters that they are liable for any damage....

Is this your forever house? any plans for allowing you to utilise house when you are old/ ill /infirm? some rooms have 2 small windows? why not make them bigger and 1 unit keeps installation costs down, and detailing around 2 windows instead of 1. what about a larger porch with room so outer door can be closed prior to opening inner door and letting all the heat escape? I also agree with Thorfun regarding giving Architect a brief, as opposed to a set of plans.

So imagine your plasterboard wall. with the plasterboard access hatch You could glue a double surface pattress to the rear of the plasterboard to make all the extra low voltage connections nice and safe, you could fix a switched spur for local isolation and fusing down for the mains power and then connect up the power transformer to this. this could keep everything tidy and reasonably managed to make it easy to maintain.

Damp proof course with timber plate sitting on top

Do you have a conduit in the door frame to take the cable away? Transformer has to be within 8 metres max of door cabling. What happens when power fails does it lock secure? Any plans to fit a UPS? Is it just a split handle, so that from the secure side the door opens on the handle, with no push to exit button required?

Yep, with waste, water and power services under the kick plate hidden from view

I don’t think it’s a good idea. I’ve heard it about in the past, but to me it’s not an industry standard solution so would rather go with the return pipework which is designed to solve this problem. what happens after the dead leg is away and you are then flushing the toilet with water you have paid to heat? Would love to hear an estate agent list this as a selling point?

Do you have a cupboard near the front door? is there a control box or is everything integral to the finger print/intercom external unit? what kind of locking mechanism are you using? Something in the door or in the frame? if you let us know a make/model I’m sure we can offer some more advice to make it easier for you.

Probably best to keep it near the door as much as possible to reduce any volt drop to the lock mechanism, depending on what type of lock, it could draw more current.

What do the planning drawings say? I’m in agreement by the way, they can prefer what they like but what’s written in black in white and what’s passed is a different matter. it could be the preference of one planning officer, not the dept.

It’s always easier to get a timber fixing on these, so it pays to install a plywood pad in the ceiling, just similar to putting plywood behind walls for radiators to get decent fixings.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/SHNITPWR-Converter-Transformer-100-240V-5-5x2-5mm/dp/B08BJRMQHZ/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?dchild=1&keywords=24+Volt+DC+Power+Supply&qid=1611698388&quartzVehicle=138-266&replacementKeywords=24+dc+power+supply&sr=8-9 or something that just plugs in to the mains socket?

Reduce the heating demand, so insulate more of the house.

Both the same electrical spec

https://uk.farnell.com/tdk-lambda/dsp30-24/psu-din-rail-24v-31-2w/dp/1456481 Or the correct model if you Google the numbers written on the drawing

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Din-Rail-Power-Supply-MeanWell-NDR-120-24/dp/B07BFCCPVB/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?adgrpid=53928596875&dchild=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI5-TvwK267gIVDLTtCh30owr2EAAYAiAAEgJ2EvD_BwE&hvadid=259150435849&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=9046870&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=17678314962473593575&hvtargid=kwd-298956512635&hydadcr=16905_1776277&keywords=24v+dc+power+supply&qid=1611690109&sr=8-9&tag=hydrukspg-21You so the drawing says 24vdc 1.3 amp. so any 24vdc transformer with a higher rating of 1.3amp. Will work. you could get cheaper that comes with a plug like a laptop plug, cut the end off, and connect up, but you would need a multimeter to prove polarity.