Roundtuit

Too right... he should be clear that if you assert your rights to trim back growth, there's a good chance the tree will become unviable and wil need removing. Best shortcut that and take it out now! ?

Sorry, don't want to be negative, but your pics look like you've got trickle vents in your windows. If that's the case, I'd have a serious rethink about whether you'll get a benefit from mvhr; there might be better ways to invest the money.

Regardless of foundation design, if it's still only 10 inches from your build, I'd suggest it still needs to go. You can trim the branches back to leave your neighbour half a tree before you start, but are you going to be able to do that a couple of times a year in perpetuity to stop it encroaching? The landlord probably doesn't give a toss about the tree as long as it doesn't cost him anything, and he's possibly keeping his head down out of embarrassment at his parking-space deal duplicity being outed. I'd persevere at making contact again and reaching an agreement to relieve him of the burden of tree ownership f.o.c

As everyone has said, the risk is too great to do this half-ar$ed. To do it as it needs to be done is not going to be cheap. I like a challenge, but if I neeed that parking space, to be honest, I'd be thinking about moving house rather than this project. Sorry it's not the quick-fix you were hoping for ?

Yes, the Gem can divert power to a second 'appliance' when the immersion switches off. I haven't found a use for it yet, but I think it's used for things like water cylinder de-stratification pumps. If I had battery storage, I guess it would be battery first, then immersion for any surplus.

Sorry, I was referring to the mechanics, not BR requirements. All I know is that my ashp installer got a bit twitchy when I told him that he didn't need to worry about a legionella cycle...

Correct. Although if you've no PV immersion controller, you'd probably use the ashp's legionella control programme. I've got the Apollo Gem, and the immersion heater is wired directly in to it, independent of the ashp. It has it's own programable legionella cycle and boost facility if you need it.

Aldi special buy, online only; Scheppach HP100S plate compactor for just shy of £300 delivered. That's way cheaper (~ £150) than I can find it else where. I've ordered one to sell on when I've finished landscaping. (Yeah, I know, I'll end up keeping it if it's any good...?)

Fantastic location, and great progress.! Like your style; sharp and clean ?

I clicked on that! WTF??!

How well are the front wheels fixed to the body? I remember some old farm trailers (a rulley was the Yorkshire name for them when I used to drag them around the Wolds) being a bit unstable when cornering; I suspect you won't be moving it far, but you might want to consider the extra leverage effect on stability as well as deflection.

I'd put it on blocks. I strongly suspect that what starts off as clean stone will soon be full of crap and leaf mold with stuff growing in it.

Thanks, I was just thinking the same. I've got some 140mm stainless Spax timber screws I was planning to recess ~25mm into the second course to fix it; I'll see how it goes!

Thanks all; some interesting thoughts. I think I'd better experiment with a few methods using off-cuts before I go nuclear with the drill....

Hi. I'm building a retaining wall for a raised patio out of oak sleepers, screw-fixing each course as I go (only 3 high, laid flat, so 300mm). To fix the top course and lock the whole thing together I was planning on drilling some 20mm holes through all 3 courses and knocking 20mm oak dowels in. Just looking at ordering some dowels, and it's struck me that a 20mm dowel (taking into consideration manufacturing tolerances) might be too big for a 20mm hole. I could get 3/4 inch (19.05mm) dowels which would go in, and hopefully swell to fit tight? I've bought 20mm drill bit, so would rather buy dowels to suit if possible. What would you do? cheers

Does it involve a box of matches and an insurance claim form??

That looks just the job! My wife's got a long standing 'Romany Caravan' aspiration, and one day it'll make a good project. I keep my eyes open for an old 4-wheel trailer every time I pass an old farmyard, hoping to find one in the nettles I can buy for a tenner! I bet there are dozens around just rotting away, but I think they are becoming quite desirable for this sort of thing.

Demolition sounds expensive for crumbling outbuildings; I'd strip it out of the quote and get it priced separately, especially if there are any materials worth salvaging (old bricks, tiles?).

Wouldn't have thought so. Not heard any reference to 'unnecessary' work, just 'work', which you can continue to do following government guidance, working from home if possible. Having said that, there are a lot of businesses doing their own risk assessments about how and whether to continue to trade. If you're using a contractor, if you can find one open for business and following government guidance, I'd have thought you're good to go. If you're doing it yourself and it's not a full-time job, then l guess it's a bit trickier to call unless you live on site.

Ok, ok. I up my offer to 68. Final answer.

One shot only: 28?

Is Rat? No, no, no; is special kind of hamster! My money is on Bank Vole. A lucky escape!

Dig it out and put a French drain in?

Not sure about daytime - I only use mine when it's dark - but I've varied the temperature around the house, and within the kitchen; half 6500k (working area) and half 4000k (kitchen table area) both on dimmers. In the evening watching the tv, ceiling lights go off, and lamps come on (on a 3 amp circuit wired to a wall switch like some others on here have done), so I can vary the colour if I want. Is it really temperature that's the issue, or brightness? Dimmers might sort out brighness, but the only way I've seen to alter colour temperature is with colour-changing led strips. Doubling up your lights doesn't sound aesthetically pleasing.

What thickness? I think up to 100mm is relatively easy to cut accurately to get a tight fit (then just foam any 'errors'). I did mine with a hand saw; after the first few cuts, you get pretty good pretty quick. Anything thicker, and I think I'd have struggled keeping the saw square and there's a lot of friction on the sides of the saw.