Roundtuit

That's the stuff for the job. Thin is good so it folds round the battens reasonably neatly. It does fray so doesn't want a lot of handling, but once cut, stapled and clad, it's not going to be a problem. As @Russdl says, be prepared to to be spiked by it, even through gloves...

Not sure what other routes are available, but I wrote to our local councillor with a reasoned argument and asked him to call our (free go) application in. Before the scheduled meeting the LPA backed down so I didn't get the 'Parish Council experience'.

Sounds like you need a bit of a re-set with your builder. Looking at your posts re: drains and brickwork, I'd have to say his work looks a bit $h!t, and you're obviously lacking confidence and trust in him. Has he under-priced the job maybe, and is trying to claw some money back? Over-committed and trying to save some time? Bitten off more than he can chew in terms of competence? You've got a long way to go with your build, so for the sake of your sanity I'd suggest you need to get the relationship back on track or part company (as difficult as that might be either way...)

Yes, folded up behind the battens. It was on to blockwork with a cavity, so I didn't bother with a membrane. I'll be doing another one in the not-to-distant future on a timber frame and plan to slide the lead under the membrane. You can just see the lead on this:

I experienced what sounds like a similar relationship with architects and topo surveyors: jobs for the boys.... Was there a spec for the inspection? Not sure there's much you can do, but if it's that poor I'd be expressing my disappointment with the quality of the report, looking for an alternative builder, and maybe thinking about having a chat with whatever professional body the SE is registered with.

That's going to limit your audience a bit I'm afraid. Whilst we're lucky enough to have a number of professionals who keep us on track, this is more where the half-a$$ed amateurs hang out when we're not trying to rectify the last job.

Probably. Depending on gauge and condition, you can get through it with a spade and some determination!

Mini-digger to scrat it out, or just leave it in and work round it. I've done a bit of both; less disruptive to leave it in to rust away if you can.

Sometimes life throws the reset switch and gives you the space to re-evaluate and go again; well done for embracing it! Great progress on the house; love the manifold!

Ah...you're the one that uses them! Got a box full of unused ones somewhere I think if you need some 😄

It's not unusual to see some deflection in old roof timbers, particularly where the original slates or clay tiles have been replaced with heavier concrete tiles. Assuming there's no need to replace the roof, then maybe all it needs is some additional internal bracing to stop any more deflection.

Agreed. There isn't a 'need' as the ashp is more than capable, but lighting the stove and banging some extra heat into the house of a winters evening does lighten the load on the Smart meter the next morning.

Should only be condensate at the fresh air intake side I think, unless there is anything dripping back from the exhaust where it passes through a cold loft space maybe.

Is the unit level? Does it need tilting a fraction toward the drain?

The only time I've had dripping and funny noises is when the condensate drain was blocked with biofilm snot and water built up to the fan blades. Now temperatures have dropped condensate levels will have increased. Have you checked inside the unit to make sure condensate is flowing away OK?

Yes, but I'd like a more traditional look, and to match the house I think mortar-bedded is the way to go. I realise it will be slower and more challenging though.

I've now got a garage frame up, and I'm seriously considering roofing it myself as a) I'd like to save a few quid, and b) I'm weary of the whole world of disappointment that trying to get someone else to do work often involves. So: approx 120 sq m, interlocking clay pantiles, fully hipped, mortar-bedded hips and ridges. How hard can it be?

So, 12 months on, the over-priced Hitachi-approved replacement part has failed and I'm back to square one. Before I get stroppy with the supplier, is there any potential underlying cause of failure I need to investigate?

Condensation occurs where warm humid air hits a cold surface. I'd be looking at upgrading the insulation.

Whatever you choose, I'd make sure they're A1-S1-T1 rated, and don't underestimate the competence of the roofer in ensuring longevity. I spent ages comparing colour, price, quality and availability and I'm pi$$ed-off at having 2 or 3 fail every year/18 months since install (5 years ago). No idea what the problem is, but at least the roofers are honouring the 10 Yr guarantee albeit in slow time...

I think it's to cover a worst case scenario i.e. a fire in the flue generating abnormal temperatures.

As above: I used cement board at loft joist level (fixed to joists, with a hole cut in it for flue, assembled in two halves) sealed with fireproof mastic around the twin wall flue and across the joint, and then taped the airtight membrane to the cement board at a safe distance fron the flue.

If it all hinges on getting planning permission on the paddock, then that's the place to start! Or maybe you're further on in the process... what soil do you need to dig?

I'm not familiar with that sort of wall build-up, but the 50mm plasterboard and 150mm pir sound fairly decent. If it's timber frame, I suspect any cavity should be ventilated, but doesn't that render the external 90mm eps redundant?

Some pilers do. We had an assumed depth of 10m, plus additional cost for deeper, and a few quid off if it was less.