Roundtuit

Should only be condensate at the fresh air intake side I think, unless there is anything dripping back from the exhaust where it passes through a cold loft space maybe.

Is the unit level? Does it need tilting a fraction toward the drain?

The only time I've had dripping and funny noises is when the condensate drain was blocked with biofilm snot and water built up to the fan blades. Now temperatures have dropped condensate levels will have increased. Have you checked inside the unit to make sure condensate is flowing away OK?

Yes, but I'd like a more traditional look, and to match the house I think mortar-bedded is the way to go. I realise it will be slower and more challenging though.

I've now got a garage frame up, and I'm seriously considering roofing it myself as a) I'd like to save a few quid, and b) I'm weary of the whole world of disappointment that trying to get someone else to do work often involves. So: approx 120 sq m, interlocking clay pantiles, fully hipped, mortar-bedded hips and ridges. How hard can it be?

So, 12 months on, the over-priced Hitachi-approved replacement part has failed and I'm back to square one. Before I get stroppy with the supplier, is there any potential underlying cause of failure I need to investigate?

Condensation occurs where warm humid air hits a cold surface. I'd be looking at upgrading the insulation.

Whatever you choose, I'd make sure they're A1-S1-T1 rated, and don't underestimate the competence of the roofer in ensuring longevity. I spent ages comparing colour, price, quality and availability and I'm pi$$ed-off at having 2 or 3 fail every year/18 months since install (5 years ago). No idea what the problem is, but at least the roofers are honouring the 10 Yr guarantee albeit in slow time...

I think it's to cover a worst case scenario i.e. a fire in the flue generating abnormal temperatures.

As above: I used cement board at loft joist level (fixed to joists, with a hole cut in it for flue, assembled in two halves) sealed with fireproof mastic around the twin wall flue and across the joint, and then taped the airtight membrane to the cement board at a safe distance fron the flue.

If it all hinges on getting planning permission on the paddock, then that's the place to start! Or maybe you're further on in the process... what soil do you need to dig?

I'm not familiar with that sort of wall build-up, but the 50mm plasterboard and 150mm pir sound fairly decent. If it's timber frame, I suspect any cavity should be ventilated, but doesn't that render the external 90mm eps redundant?

Some pilers do. We had an assumed depth of 10m, plus additional cost for deeper, and a few quid off if it was less.

My local BM is coming in at twice that price for 6mm 2400 x 1200 sheets; any tips on sourcing cheaper please?

Difficult to tell from the pics, but I'd guess it's not deep enough. Don't know what best practice is, but I'd be looking for maybe 15mm plus.

I'd have a look at Witham Timber in Boston. I haven't used them personally, but suspect you'd get a good deal on that volume.

Looks like you haven't made it easy for yourself 🙂 Traditionalists would have made a square opening I think. How about squaring off the height with some sort of lintel at around the same level as the soffit. That will give you a bit of space to play with. I'd run the tracks down the back of the door piers to maintain opening width and avoid damage.

I don't thknk there's any way you can 'guess' that. You need to get up there to measure and check that there's some decent timber to put new glass in to. Looking at the pics, I suspect you'll be lucky to get away without replacing some woodwork.

Welcome aboard. Ask away and chip-in where you can. Every day's a school day!

Ask away! There's usually someone here who's done it, made a b@lls of it and then found the right way!

Top photo looks similar to Vandersanden Old Farmhouse.

Where's the moisture coming from to cause the rust? Damp walls? Condensation?

Tanaka. I've abused one for 5 years (with v heavy use in Yr 1) never been serviced and guaranteed to start on the third pull every time. 2 year warranty for commercial use and 5 years for domestic; I think that says something about build quality.

Our rainwater runs to a dyke. There didn't seem to be any advantage in putting it into a lined pond as its not going to soak away effectively, and I didn't want an unlined soakaway that dries out in summer. Also, I built it several years after moving in, so conflict with newts and house construction. April 2021 June 2023

Yes. I planned a wildlife pond (no fish) to increase biodiversity, to try and soften the blow of developing what was an overgrown 'natural' plot. I don't remember it attracting comments either way at the planning stage tbh, but I like it. We have a healthy newt population but not seen GCN yet. I think all self builders should build a GCN pond/bat box/dormouse hostel if they have the space, then maybe we can get the effing things off the protected list!