SimonD

I used it a bit during our design stage but never looked at suppliers and didn't find it very good overall. My wife hated it with a vengeance. My details also got hacked from them.They didn't inform me, it was a piece of password security software that told me! I do run a business focussed on a local demographic and found that the most successful means of getting customers was Google. I know some people get really good results from socials, but I didn't so stopped putting in any effort other than website and search rankings. With another business of mine, neither socials, nor web worked, all word of mouth. I think it largely depends on your business and customer demographic.

Catnics is basically a Tata Steel clipped standing seam roof (Tata steel product for selfbuilders is called Colourcoat Urban). If you're looking at coated steel roof, @Kevin J will I'm sure be along shortly re the product Metal Solutions supply which is also pre formed with clip together seams but made from SSAB Greencoat PLX. The minimum pitch for these roofs is usually 5 degree although with some standing seam products you can get away with 3 degrees.

Interestingly, I just put in an order for some stuff to be delivered from Germany. A quick phone call to HMRC, which was very promptly answered btw, gave me all the info I needed that any duty on what I was ordering would be either 0% up to a max of 2.5% (varies as I didn't have all the codes I needed). VAT is chargable and payable only once, so either on purchase or customs. For me it's got to be down to Covid and related supply/demand issues.

I second what @nod says. I can't answer your question as to whether the steels can sit on the timber. I have a large stick frame more than double your size but the timber roof structure, including glulam beams of almost 7m long all sit on the steel beams, so really the other way round. My structural engineer specialised in steel and timber frames.

As @joe90 and @Declan52say, if they're free and you feel like trying them out, just give it a go and see how it works! Nothing wrong with trying out your own ideas, actually more credit to you for doing that. It'll only be after you do it you'll really know if it's a good or crazy idea.

To me that looks like total overkill for a garden office foundations. A lot of unecessary work and materials. If you were building a house, I'd understand. Here is a video of a much simpler method of foundations which may be helpful for ideas and inspiration - far quicker and cheaper: My garden office simply sits on breeze blocks with a small about of concrete to help with levelling. I have a large metal tool store that sits happily on breeze blocks lying on bare, levelled and tamped earth with a simple timber frame base on top of those. I don't think you need to worry about wind uplift, my garden structures have sat quite happily through several 50+ mph storm winds and not gone anywhere.The office just creaked a bit in one of the worst storms we've encountered.

No problem,of course. It's best to speak to an accountant in the first instance, but it doesn't harm if you know any developers that you can speak to about how they run their business. In order to find and contract an accountant with the right experience, and to gain initial insight on answers, I've previously used the Any Answers section of AccountingWeb. You can either search up existing answers relating to companies involved in property development and see who's posting the good answers, or just write your question with a note that you're looking for an accountant to help. I've had some good response previously that helped an organisation I was working with through some tricky and vague tax law and I didn't know anyone locally with the expertise.

If this is the case, you need to go beyond the mere plan for build costs/profits and associated taxes, but also, if this is a one off development, how you go about extracting the assets from the company and winding that company up. This is not trivial as you may end up having to settle VAT, CGT and corporation tax as well as individual taxes on your earnings from that company. There are of course strategies for this but extracting assets from the ltd does require careful planning too. What you really need is help putting together a business plan that takes all this into consideration and therefore gives you not only a financially sensible build strategy but an overall company strategy that covers where you want to take it, which may not necessarily be a ltd company.

Install an extra layer of insulation outside the timber frame. Frankly ,this is a better way to build timber frame walls from a thermal performance perspective. If you have an extra layer of insulation across the studs internally, you'll get more cold bridging than if the same layer is external. TRADA has some free materials available demonstrating this and using an external layer to the timber frame also helps your SAP calculations as it will reduce Y value for cold bridging of the frame. Why we still build timber frames with internal insulation to the frame I have no idea.

Seconding what @Mr Punter says, setting up a LTD company is really very simple, you can do it online during a coffee break. Structuring and running a company or companies successfully is an entirely different matter and something I'd recommend you always get advice on before taking the plunge, especially since your project involves your respective (multi-party) individual assets and their development. For example, you need someone to provide the grim but valuable advice about how to extract yourself should your friendship deteriorate and other such realities etc. I don't mean to sound negative but I've spent nearly 10years working with start up companies and entrepreneurs so learnt much about how things can shift from lucrative dream to unworkable dynamics, not to mention the challenges of setting up good financial structure and management.

This place have thought long and hard about this problem and just call them both: M12 Hexagon Head Set Screws Bolts, High Tensile Grade 8.8 Galvanised, DIN 933 https://boltworld.co.uk/collections/m6-bolts/products/m12-hexagon-head-set-screws-bolts-high-tensile-grade-8-8-galvanised-din-933?variant=32061282451549 At least nobody will be confused now ?

You don't need trickle vents, that's just the default assumption. I don't have trickle vents as there's no way I'm putting them in expensive 3g windows especially when some vents would sit 3.6 meters above floor level. You can simply install natural background wall vents and/or alternatively passive stack. It's all in the building regs. I got my acoustic cntrollable ones directly from Rytons - https://www.vents.co.uk/pdf/BROCH_Rytons_Background_Ventilators.pdf And yes, I'm not into MVHR as after my research I decided against it.

I've just been looking at this with great interest, especially the green roof and what looks like a cantilevered balcony/entrance door on the 1st floor. It looks pretty cool and I'd love a workshop that looks like this with a vehicle lift. The cantilever together with green roof isn't entirely a trivial thing to design from a timber frame structural perspective and will feed into your foundation and ground floor wall design (e.g. where you may need double or triple studs and maximum cantilever distance and load for the selected joist dimensions). I guess you've had SE input for this? Otherwise, I just have some minor points of note, that may or may not feed into your end design. Stud wise, you're either looking at carcassing timber which is 47 x 150mm, with a nominal finished size of 45 x 145 (which some framers do use) or the more appropriate 50 x 150mm CLS which has a finised size of 38 x 140, which is the 'proper' framing timber. Also have a look at your need for the Intello Plus vapour check as I think this is actually designed for fibrous insulation materials rather than PIR. It's expensive and another vapour check and airtightness layer may serve you better. The current sole plate arrangement does look like a cold bridge area as currently designed. I personally prefer the timber frame designs that have a layer of insulation outside the frame as this reduces cold bridging across the whole frame and performs better at junctions and can easily be taken down to cover the sole plate. For example you could use 60mm pir between studs and 60mm outside, or some other arrangement. Hope some of that is informative but I'm now being hassled by kids and have the check out! ?

It is indeed a large chunk of the budget. I tried to design ours but found I didn't have the creative insight to get it right. Even though some of the elements our architect designed were similar to ideas I'd had, he made them work as a whole design. Unless you've already done so, or you're against it, have you looked at kit house suppliers who provide inhouse design and standardised kits, trying to find a local draughtman, or even and architectural technician? Maybe even online pruchase of standardised plans, if there are any?

Brownie points for the site visit, but otherwise that doesn't sound great. If you got a good vibe, I bet you wouldn't be here asking the question? I do, maybe your mind is more made up that you realise? ? Why not give it a go yourself and see how it goes? Then ask for feedback on the forum. Like @Olf suggested, I can attest to Qcad (free or £33 for the pro license) as a good 2d tool and there are plenty of 3d house cad apps out there now. If you end up finding it all too tedious you can always get someone in?

Have you seen any of the designs this architect has previously done? Spoken to previous clients? In my view £50/hour for a chartered architect given the training they have to complete is not bad at all. When we got proposals from architects for our project, prices came in at about £10k to £12k just to get us to planning. Detailed design at 50 hours would, I think, mean using some standard detailing but modified for your particular design. My view on architects is that they do have an eye for design and can produce a building that has, for example, the right proportions, form and function. I think you can pretty much always tell when a building is a "builder/diy" design versus an architect unless the architect has had their hands tied by the developer, or they're rubbish. If you decide to design yourself and want the space and aesthetic to work , you'll have to gain a good understanding of space requirements in rooms and houses etc. including ensuring things like sufficient headroom for stairs and so on. It's actually a lot of work if you haven't done it before. For planning they're only really interested in the external facets of the house, not the internals. You can indeed save yourself money if you agree to take on admin sides of the architect's work, including CDM Health and Safety - none of it rocket science, a lot of it tendious bureaucracy, even if much of it is common sense. ? Keep in mind you will need to add figures for structural engineer and any other professionals and they will need decent reference drawings etc. My view is that the design value provided by a decent architect is worth it to have a nice looking and functional space, but also that some people choose to forego this. But as @George says, do speak to several architects and get quotes before making a decision. We spoke to 6 in all. You might also want to consider a chartered architectural technologist https://architecturaltechnology.com/

Okay, this probably isn't a direct answer to you question but if it's any help, our architect took us through what we thought was a good process to generate ideas and find out what we liked when we designed our place. Given that we've got something we really like in terms of design and looking at other projects he's done, he's pretty good at this part of his work. First he got us to to go around and have good look at properties wherever we went. When looking at those properties we were under instructions to note down the elements we liked about the houses and what we didn't. Then, once we knew what we liked or didn't we looked at different architectural design styles. A good start is, for example https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_architectural_styles We spent a whole load of time looking at the styles we liked, and then again whittling those style down to elements we liked of those styles and what we didn't. So for example, we both like Georgian style but what we particularly like about Georgian architecture is high ceilings and big high windows (we've got this upstairs). We wanted easy acces to the garden from the kitchen/dining area, which, because our house is on a hill, meant turning the house upside down and building bridge to the flatest part of the garden. This whittling also brought us to a couple of architects, Le Corbusier and Frank Lloyd Wright where again we found some elements of their design we liked, and some we didn't (some Le Corbusier stuff I loved some I absolutely hated). This influenced the design of our house. So for us it was finding general styles we warmed to and refining from there. I was also lucky in that I was working with a client in London and would regularly walk past the RIBA offices and would pop into the bookshop to browse books on my way to the train home!

What in particular are you looking for?

The only junction is a single doorway between the two areas. Subfloor will be osb with solid wooden floor above to finish. I was initially hoping I could disappear it..until my wife noticed and asked me about it to confirm we were having no elevation changes in the floor anywhere ? Yes, I will take @MikeGrahamT21 's suggestion on that one.

Yes, that would work. A lot easier than the other options too. Thanks!

I'll try to make my excuse as simple as possible, I started my build with work to an existing small extension and newbuild infill extension to the house. When I did this, we were still living in the other part of the house. So I did all this prep work and installed new floor joists for ground suspend timber floor. Now that I've finally got the new floor joist into the rest of the house I've realised a problem. I've just found that my reference dpc for the first bit of the floor is actually about 20mm lower than the dpc for the main house (these are all part of existing structure built in 1920s). I know I should have known better that to trust the dpc level of this old house, but too late now. So to the question. What's the easiest way to raise the floor level? the area for lifting is about 24sqm whereas the rest of the house which is slightly higher and the other side of what used to be an external wall is about 75sqm. My thoughts: given that the joists are not fully fixed and there is not subfloor I can either: 1. remove the masonry bolts and lift the wall plates and then use slate packers at any sleeper walls. 2. insert packers under individual joists in joist hangers and on sleeper walls. Thoughts? and any other options?

Haha, no I reckon not ?

Amazing!

I had one of those and it was a PITA. It refused to self prime even under water. Seemed to get an air pocket in the pump that stopped it from working. I found I had to lie on my stomach to reach down into floaded foundation trenches, put it on its side while running and jiggle it around. Eventually it would pump. Then it just burned itself out one time. I also bought a couple from amazon which were just as rubbish so sent straigh back. I found that some of these pumps require a very high water level to prime and start pumping so it's worth looking at the specs for this. For shallower water, I bought a heavy duty dirty water drill pump,and rigged up an old drill to a piece of plywood with the pump screwed to it. Then I attached an inlet tube from an old pressure washer that had a filter on the end which I stuck into the water. It doesn't pump the same volume rate but does remove water to a lower level.

Sounds like an exciting project. If you gain from the tax advantages of self-build and you know what you're doing it does seem like this kind of thing can be a good investment.