Alan Ambrose

Whether they're standard earthenware tiles or porcelain, you probably want diamond bits. Those big holes would be hard work in porcelain. As in, you might prefer to get them cut outside - say by a granite place.

Even in these tick-box times, you would have to have annoyed BC a lot to get them to get stroppy over 4cm. BC shouldn't be involved anyway for a shed. Your neighbour presumably doesn't have access to measure, so ignore.

The two in parallel should be fine - say 47A in free air. I think the resistance arguments, while theoretically correct, will be irrelevant as the cables with be roughly the same length. You probably can't measure the length of each cable exactly as they're buried, but if you have the right equipment, you could measure the small resistance. I still think the calcs will get you v. close to the theory for 6.5mm^2. However, they'll be some who find that 'it doesn't meet regs' (although be hard-pushed to say why) and some will rightly point out that 'it isn't to manufacturer's spec'. So your decision and your responsibility unless you get a spark to sign off and use his/her PI.

Heard of a brick manufacturer closing recently for 5 months break as their yards are full. Less demand I guess.

You can make little cutouts at the back of the plasterboard very quickly with a plasterboard saw to make them work, particularly if there's not many to do. Some of my walls here have two sheets of PB, so 25mm thick. Alternatively, for a few mm, you can just be gentle and pull the screws up tight without the tabs latching, and they'll hold the whole thing in place fine.

Well start with the simple stuff - I had one circuit that was always open because the actuator wasn’t clipped on properly. Easy fix. Next take off the errant actuators and observe whether they operate when the whole thing is switched on i.e. is the controller ‘telling’ the actuator to be on all the time. If you’re handy with a multimeter, you can also check the ‘signal’ from the wiring centre. (Note some actuators are 240V, some 24V.) If so, you have a wiring (or maybe a programming) fault. BTW you’ve shown good fault-finding technique so far, just keep up with the logical debug and you will either (a) find the fault or (b) prove good some of the components.

You can put them all on the same ‘profile’ in the app - so you can use only one schedule.

Ah interesting points from Gus (as usual) - the larger picture. Maybe you can post up here the drawings from their planning application for interest and to give a clue about the necessity for piling. In my book, not bothering to tell you about the piling (you will have seen planning detail though, no?) beforehand is majorly unneighbourly. Contractors that (apparently) don't speak enough English to talk to a concerned neighbour - and obviously didn't ask their boss / client to contact you - that's another couple of black marks. So, everything may be fine in the end, but it may not, and you've seen the warning signs already. Worth the legal missive and the notification to the council - if only, to head off the next piece of potential nonsense headed your way. You still have a chance to modify their behaviour for the rest of the build. Do you even know which legal entity is doing the piling and who their client is?

I have a couple of 1600mm Reina Diva Electric Chrome Towel Radiator from Luxus Design. I was less than impressed at installation time that the 4 mounts are 'chromed plastic' - but in practice you don't really notice that. I can't actually remember how they're mounted but the mounts obviously need to be into something strong-ish.

There are companies, of course, who’ll cut slate etc to a drawing / CAD file. Not crazy expensive.

>>> THINK it is when I have two profiles controlling the same room at over lapping times. Sounds likely. There is a sort of Heatmiser web location for bug reports / feature requests but it's noddy at best: https://feedback.heatmiser.com/

I think there's a minimum standard for hearths, this kind of thing: https://stovefitterswarehouse.co.uk/pages/hearth-regulations#:~:text=Put simply%2C a full constructional,hearth from the combustible material). Doc J apparently.

There's some high temperature cement / mastic stuff used for sealing joints in flue pipes etc. A small amount of that maybe? Or else maybe get stainless cut and bent to fit - with or without powder coat to your taste. Slate hearth - but then the fire should probably sit on it?

Interesting, I wonder if you could use them into a basement.

Yeah, if this is in the countryside, some LPAs like a kind of minimum lighting set-up.

Soakaways (depending on soil), french drains, rainwater recycling. Plenty of content here on Buildhub if you want to do some reading.

Interesting - inconsistent website? That means, £900K+ for 200 m^2. I guess for big city pricing, that's not crazy high. Which suggests either clients who don't really care much about the economics or somewhere where land values are very high. Curiously though they all look like 'houses in the country'.

We would typically advise that one of our house designs starts at around £3,500/ m2, but can quickly go north, depending on the site, location, design, specification, and what one actually includes in this cost. We would also advise that you may want to consider an allowance for fit-out (built-in furniture, curtains and blinds, loose furniture etc.) and landscaping ... Typical fees range from 8-15% of build cost. They look cool-ish, but there clearly is a very 'Ström' style - long thin flat glassy box anyone?

DP Miller did and I kind of included them in 'anything German for best quality'.

Well much sympathy, some of us have been there before... Yeah, suggest, in parallel, (a) appeal the current design making much of 'I can't actually stand up in the current garage' and (b) submit an alternative design which works under PD and apply for a Lawful Development Certificate. I'm not sure I'm terribly impressed with your advisers for ending up at this point.

Sad that the Germans make better British sockets than the British...

>>> does a roof … need to be fully watertight? Suggest ‘no’ (the membrane is meant to handle the drips, condensation etc) but it’s all a matter of judgement. There’s probably a standard somewhere, but realistically the desired level of water and wind-tightness depend on the house location, orientation etc. That is, if you go off-piste the responsibility is on you (it’s probably on you anyway). Jeez those instructions are hard to read.

Hmmm, assuming you’re not in a conservation area etc, these are the permitted development rules: No outbuilding on land forward of a wall forming the principal elevation. Outbuildings and garages to be single storey with maximum eaves height of 2.5 metres and maximum overall height of four metres with a dual pitched roof or three metres for any other roof. Maximum height of 2.5 metres in the case of a building, enclosure or container within two metres of a boundary of the curtilage of the dwellinghouse. No more than half the area of land around the "original house"* would be covered by additions or other buildings. Are you ‘breaking’ one or more of these? What kind of roof is it?

You don’t say how you’re measuring, but you need a fairly accurate measuring device (not cheap) and to measure just under the stat at the inlet where the air runs past the built-in thermistor. The effects you see are probably due to room variation, thermistors don’t drift much. I’ve installed a couple of Heatmiser set-ups and I usually commission by going round to each stat, measure the temperature by the stat with an accurate device and use the in-stat menus to make the stats match the actual reading. As others have said, maybe the difference is air movement, sun or humidity.

That’s starting to look like ‘electricity for grown-ups’. Nice. Think it would handle Agile properly?