Faz

Is there any reason you can't build that other wall up to match and go for a standard attic truss option - it would save you so much money and agg?

Or agree to what they want and take a more practical solution and quickly backfill ?

+1 - this will need a SUDS solution which will involve and unrealistic amount of soakaway crates. I am in the same position and, in my case, the whole this is completely unnecessary - the ground make up is 600mm peat over clay so the water goes straight through the peat and washes over the clay until it drains away. They are going to make me put rainwater storage in for a 1 in a 100 year event + 40% addition for 'climate change'. 40 sq. m of crates overall..... All to avoid a puddle in the garden once a century - which would never happen because of the peat! Madness.

Hardi backer all the way - can't go wrong with cement board.

Actually it now doesn't with that low rez pic ?

And one of the ones to sell - looking pretty good to me.

Time flies - even through the winter. Anyway - nice to get the scaffold down. And what a terrible winter it has been to be standing in a field on the Fen!

Just put the roof on - soon for the first fix for them. They like to go in before the other M&E so they can keep the pipe runs as straight as possible for acoustics. They did a 4 apartment penthouse scheme for us last year and were fine - hence coming back on my build! They are supply and install all under one roof and will stand by the system for 7 years (from memory) so there is some comfort there depending and what weight you put of these warranties.

Karndean is plastic mate.

No window in the utility which wont be nice - can you move the plant area to the laundry room (utility and laundry rooms??) so a window will fit alongside the door? The bathrooms and ensuites look really pokey compared to the rest of it - also the widow sizes and locations are going to give you a real challenge when deciding on the layout - probably worth considering layouts now.

I have been using Munster Joinery for years - any minor snagging issues are picked up and dealt with quickly. Had some horror stories with some other manufacturers!

If you really had wanted to make life hard for yourself you would have let your architect spec Vado taps for you like we mistakenly did on a 88 unit scheme! 2mm max tolerance for the bodies otherwise the square surrounds would not be straight. What a nightmare.

The main benefit you get from a credit account is the invoicing - I ran a cash account with the merch and it was chaos tbh - switched to a credit a/c and all good.

Here is my layout designed by Solarcrest if it helps mate.

Bedded and topped mine in building sand - as much to find it without damaging it when we have to dig back down to it as anything else. All goes into the sub-floor so no need for anything elaborate.

I know it is really dull but you just have to trawl the Ibstock / Weinerberger / Fonterra etc selectors and choose some samples. We did it for what felt like ages but am happy with the choices made as the brickwork approaches completion.

I put down a really expensive (£100/m!) engineered floor in our last major scheme 88 flats which was lovely - Kahrs Oak Berlin it was. In the flats bought to live in it has been spot on - a few of the flats bought by Buy to Let investors not so. These floors need oiling twice a year and generally looking after.

Looks to be in stock here - Dewalt DCN692P2 Cordless XR 2 Speed First Fix Nailer 90mm 18V 2 x 5.0Ah Li-Ion (powertools2u.co.uk) and here DeWalt DCN660N-XJ 18v Brushless 2nd Fix Nailer Body Only | Toolden

Mind you - I have never seen anything dripping out of a weep hole in my life! In any event that is carefully drilling out a perp joint to miss the cavity tray not demolishing half of what you built!

Don't scrimp on the things you cannot change - fabric first This! Things will happen that require on site solutions all of the time no matter how good your drawings are - you just have to get it sorted. No point in sleepless nights - its not going to change anything. Engage with the trades and all will be well. Building houses is not rocket science - even Persimmon manage it after a fashion!!! Even big house builders cock things up - I drive past a 65 house scheme on the way to site and they were using the same floor system I used (Floorspan E Floor+) and I do glance in as I drove by and thought something wasn't quite right - they were up to splash on about 40 plots. Turned out that they forgot to install the periscope vents to the sub-floor in all of them - had to demolish 2 sides of each house to rectify (you can't cut them in) - ooops.

Ok - I would make it up with the poly then - a mistake to introduce type 1 and sand I would have thought and it probably wouldn't save much although I had an email from Floorspan this week saying that all of their EPS prices were rising due to a world shortage. Are you able to pass the costs on?

Why are you jacking up the FFL so much after the beams are in out of interest?

Here you go mate. As you can see from the box they came from Manthorpe - the merch will be able to source them for you. The sudden summer makes life hard on site when it comes out of nowhere btw!

The joist lift is a pain in the arse for brickies either way and they will have priced for a fair amount of faffing about you would have thought. To give you an idea the joist lift on mine was £3500 (labour) vs £5k for the 1/2/3rd lifts.

You can use joist end caps - only cost £4/5 each depending on size. I have used them on mine and can grab some photos when back to site tomorrow if you want? These allow for the timber shrinkage and have a foam airtight seal facing the block.