Bonner

Jealous, I would do the same if I didn’t have a SWMBO to motivate me 😬

Plenty of 2.4m (or bigger) doors available. Panels over a door can look a bit crap, don’t compromise your design!

Two inches of top soil will dry out very quickly, I would suggest minimum of 6” and preferably double that.

Talking of slip membrane over insulation ... what thickness of polythene would be recommended for flow screed?

Certainly unusual. Would be nice to know what the structural problem is.

Welcome, feel free to share your experience as well as ask any questions. Lots of info already in here, excellent search function.

Good idea but I don’t have one. Will be on an uninhabited site so looking for something reasonably priced.

Impossible to be 100% certain but should be okay. I would use the wall to partially support the weight and make sure the floor load is distributed evenly across the footprint of the tank stand (no point loading).

Looking to do the same, which cameras did you use?

Like you say, can’t be difficult. He is either inexperienced or not wanting to do something non-standard. Photo or drawings might help someone come up with a solution.

Puddles dried up now the roof is on, I will get a level and measure properly.

Thanks for the suggestions, think I will try a cheap one and see how I get on.

Never used one but feel I need something to help me with drains, studwork, cladding, kitchen installation etc. Which type should I buy, what’s the latest ‘best buy’?

I have a similar issue, low spots in the slab. Probably 20mm low over a couple of fairly large areas (gradual transition). I know because of the puddles in winter. I expect the insulation will be pushed down by the weight of screed. My concern is that I will have 20mm thicker flo-screed in places, will it shrink more and need levelling to suit large tiles?

I would use rigid pipe over these distances, huge pressure loss with flexible. All pipe and fittings are available from SF and TS (different brands so fit together, I have used them all!)

Alternatively, drill or punch holes in the trays and push the staples through. I would leave the trays in place and add lots staples rather than disturb everything. Good luck!

Just bought some anti-vibration mounts for my MVHR from https://www.vital-parts.co.uk/anti-vibration-708-c.asp. They have a decent range but not installed yet so can’t vouch for the product or my mounting!

I would fix a stiff backing board first. Then glue/pin the laths to the board. Fixing them individually would be not only laborious but will end up all over the place.

Most DIY stores and decorating centres have a mixer. Not sure if they use masonry paint base though, you will need to ask. Mixer should be programmable with the RAL code.

That’s bloody hard work Nod! It’s kind of reassuring to know that others, even professional trades have the same issue us amateurs suffer! Unfortunately (or fortunately?!) I can’t do it all myself so just have to wait until the trades are ready, and accept their way or no way 🤯

We have trench footing for the main house, single storey offshoot has a raft found due to made up ground. Movement joint in between, all specified by structural engineer which is what you need.

Hello and welcome! Post some photos (close up and wide view), it will help get better advice ...

I think the indent at grout lines are fine, just needs tidying up a bit. Taking it all off and redoing is going too far IMO.

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Mine cost £160 installed, 2 way consumer unit + double socket. Took the electrician half an hour.