MrMagic

Look at quadplexers - 2x sat + terrestrial + FM/DAB all down a 'shotgun' pair of coax (i.e. 1 cable) I've run this + 2xcat5e to each "point" in a room. The main living space 1+2 and office all have this + quad cat5e. HTH. R.

Heres a very basic attempt at Agile Cost Vs Grid Carbon Vs Grid Generation Mix. It looks like demand 'swing' is probably the biggest cost contributor. (Ignore the TZ in the top graph, need to update my code to handle BST)

@cmorewood Keep the posts coming - I thought with Aquion going under this tech was dead but good to see it's still out there in places! Would be good to see some graphs, cycles, charge rates etc... the more stats the merrier. (and don't mind @SteamyTea, he means well ?)

Looks like the regs has been recently updated - what I suspect they are quoting is the following from doc B - "1.1 All dwellings should have a fire detection and alarm system, minimum Grade D2 Category LD3 standard, in accordance with the relevant recommendations of BS 5839-6." "1.2 Smoke alarms should be mains operated and conform to BS EN 14604." ...then cross checking BS5839-6 for rentals here: https://www.aico.co.uk/bs5839-6/ - implies again that it now has to be mains powered. Not an expert here by any stretch but it seems they are encouraging mains powered alarms (rightly so tbh). As per @Ferdinand speak to the local BCO/HMO dept etc.

It sounds like its worth investing in a two speed unit - I've got the Smiths space saver economy one, great unit but the lack of speed control I guess is whats contributing to the noise as it's permanently on 'high'. Really does pump out the heat tho.

Yep, like them. Can be a tad noisy but not offensively loud. Pump out the heat.

Just out of interest... where are people buying their sun amps these days? Do they still sell direct or only via wholesale partners now? (feel free to DM if you don’t want to post publicly)

BT are no longer deploying battery backups for fibre deployments as pretty much everyone has a mobile now. A simple UPS with just the router and the phone should last a good hour or so. Make sure you put the phone basestation on it - the amount of times people forget that a DECT/cordless phone does not work in a power cut.

I'd be tempted to move the Qubino units out in to a seperate DIN rail enclosure - it looks like they have different wiring rather than standard 'bus bar' style connections. This could also help with sign off as there is some debate at the moment as to what constitutes 'designed and built for compatibility', i.e. you shouldn't be mixing different manufacturers gear together in one CU ... (although this is a weird reg but I can understand it a little with different manufacturers using different offsets for their bus bars). May also help with serviceability since when you want to put those Qubinos in association mode you won't have to be poking around in the main CU - plus should you ever replace the Qubinos with another technology you only have to rip and replace the 'lighting board' as such. As an alternative to the double height boards you can simply stack smaller units together. Even with your 30cm width that's still going to be tight, especially once you factor in space for the tails and perhaps some vertical trunking to run carrying all the cables in and out. See what your sparky says as they'll be the one putting pen to paper for you.

@dnb Southern Water certainly seem to be sending out mixed messages with thier online guidance - https://www.southernwater.co.uk/help-advice/leaks/trench-regulations I'd go with the advice here, backed up by the diagram on the SW website - everything past the meter and certainly past your boundary line is your responsibility so JFDI. EDIT: reading that page again in detail, I think the clue is 'reconnected to the main', i.e. the wholesale replacement of the pipe end-to-end inclusive of the meter. In your case the connection to the main and the meter is all good so it's just 'your' bit you're moving.

Watching this with interest as I’m also looking to do the same thing! First things first - heat loss calculations so you know how much heat you need to put in also, semantics, you ARE going to rip the boiler out or ARE NOT ripping the boiler out?

+1 on this. Since switching to these my mastic lines look 1000 times better. Some good 'how to' vids here - (I've got the Fuji kit from the video, works perfectly with the black bits to go over grout lines/joints etc)

7 & 9 are certainly the kettle, just after 10am is probably the uranium enrichment kicking in...

As a random aside - heres the mains voltage here today (60s sampling)

Thanks @Jeremy Harris, I must make a pilgrimage up your way some time to see it all in action. @ProDave Yes, Octopus Go @ 5p/kWh cheap rate, although may be switching to Agile as it looks like it'll work out cheaper on our usage profile. I've also added Bulb E7 to my calculator after JSH mentioned it on another thread and at the moment it's coming out at a half way house price wise between Agile and Go, but early days on that calculation. Boosting during the day would be OK - PV here would be diverted and it's been a lovely day for it today. On a more technical note (and I think this has been mentioned before)... even with the Sunamp control system you've still got an 'input' of sorts direct to the immersion? I think someone mentioned here that it just goes through a contactor in the control box which I guess just opens when the system is fully charged? Should add looking at this again in detail over a normal or Mixergy tank partly based on space constraints - like a lot of households all the water tanks were ripped out years ago when going to a combi... now looks like we need to go back in the other direction to effectively make the most of renewables/ToU tariffs.

A quick question here to the smarter folk - I've also been looking at options for DHW, keeping it separate from household heating. Data gathered so far - - 2x showers in the morning and 1 bath in the evening - Actual measured water usage - - 2x showers = 180L total - 1 bath = 60L (yes, the bath really uses less water than 1 shower, really need to fix that) - Current delivery temperature target set on combi boiler - 50degC (actual seems to vary between 48 - 53) So in theory I need 180 litres of 50degC water to cover the morning and then a reheat to do the bath in the evening, or a capacity of 240 litres at 50degC - Obviously this is mixed at the end so the hot water is probably less. If I've found the correct formula it should be - Calculate the kilowatt-hours (kWh) required to heat the water using the following formula: Pt = (4.2 × L × T ) ÷ 3600. Pt is the power used to heat the water, in kWh. L is the number of liters of water that is being heated and T is the difference in temperature from what you started with, listed in degrees Celsius. Pt = (4.2 x 240 x 30) / 3600 = 8.4kWh of DHW input per day (minimum!) (is 20degC incoming too high? any ideas on what is the correct design temperature?) Looking at the Sunamp website it seems to be pushing me towards a Uniq9 (10.5kWh / 210L equiv) On the financials it doesn't win over Gas (assuming 100% of electric brought in) - ...but like @DamonHD that isn't the point here... Gas price - 2.9p/kWh Gas total @ 75% eff = (8.4 * 1.25) * 2.9 = 30.45p Elec price - 5p/kWh Elec total @ 100% eff = (8.4 * 1) * 5 = 42p So I guess my question(s) are.. does this all make sense? (technically not financially) can a single Sunamp Uniq9 really cover all our DHW needs? (do I oversize/undersize)? whats the recovery time of a Sunamp? (is it 1:1 recovery, i.e. 2.8kWh in = 2.8kWh of charge, running the internal heater for 1 hour)? Anything else I should be looking at / thinking about? P.S My wife likes 'unlimited' hot water, so may have to look at the Stiebel as well

The one area where my wife takes precedence here - Samsung Heat Pump dryer.. quite efficient but slightly slower than a regular condenser as it runs at a lower temperature. Less heat released to the room tho.

In that case the cable will just act like a normal smart charger, i.e. set timers, charge levels etc

@newhome Tale a look at the Ohme charging cable - they do a version that plugs in to your existing chargepoint to make it ‘smart’ also has direct integration with octopus agile so you can say to the cable ‘only charge when cheap’ and don’t have to worry about plugging in at specific times. There was/still is a deal where you can the cable discounted to £200 when buying via Octopus (need to have at least started the switch to them before you order)

A standard domestic wall socket charger (aka 'granny charger) can only deliver 10A max continuous. Even then it still gets a bit toasty. Next is a proper hardwired EVSE (charger) (I'm sure theres a better term) which can do the full 6A -> 32A range continuous.

Just a slight correction - Octopus Energy API docs are here - https://developer.octopus.energy/docs/api/ Check out the fantastic https://www.energy-stats.uk/ to get a quick overview of Agile and it's pricing. I'm just starting out on this path but have been simulating 3 tariffs over the past few weeks and Agile is coming out consistently cheaper with my particular usage profile - Agile cost for Jan was £38.18 vs GO @ £48.56 vs SuperGreen @ £60.10

Always fabric first... stop the heat escaping and then you'll need less of it in the first place. If you just slap any form of electric heating in without improving the fabric then you're asking for trouble.

Sorry, I'm going to be the party pooper and leave this here - ========================STANDARD WARNING======================== Please, please, please respect electricity. You don't get many/any second chances. ========================STANDARD WARNING======================== Now back to the show...

Correct, peak of ~3000ppm prior to fitting the fan, it basically just went up and up until I finished for the day, whereas now with mechanical ventilation it appears to be holding stable at ~1000ppm with the fan running. Bonfires - not too many round here, but I'm sure when I fire up the BBQ in the summer it may jump!! ?

Finally got this fitted, stating the obvious.. it only bleedin' works! Dotted line is the max of the previous week (prior to fitting the fan) with the solid line being yesterday. Whilst the PPM still rises to just over 1000ppm, it remains relatively stable and then the decay is much quicker with the air clearing in an hour or so after finishing for the day whereas previously it took all night for the "air to clear". This is running it only on its 'fast trickle' setting of 9l/s 24x7. Next step is to try selectively switching on boost to see if I can keep the PPM down further. Temperature wise, there is a slight cooling affect but nothing drastic considering it's pulling in 3degC air this morning so the heat exchange appears to be working well. So in conclusion, if you seal it up tight, don't forget to ventilate right!!