Andeh

Buy and knock down is an easier route, pay a bit more but likely less issues with planning, services and timing. Virgin plots will be fought over.

And in FURTHER parallel to what Alan said.... Each week move your bin further down the path! If you can't beat them on the beaches or beat them in the trenches... Go for the morale low ground, petty and pathetic... And bask in the smugness of him moving the bin back Every. Single. Week.

Definitely appeal, using your guy to lead it on the appropriate clauses. Please keep us update! Awkward neighbours are hard work.... Been there before!

Interesting, thanks for that. We have a lot of glazing all over the place, which we've never had before so taking some getting used to.

For what it's worth OP, I'm dealing with this myself! The house retains heat well, but exactly as you say... 20 degrees feels more like 17 degrees!

Better views on the thicknesses if things....

Yeah, overall I am. Fitters were ok, but a couple of gaps in the draft seal I'm not happy with, and I can't get the fitters back out 5 months later which is disappointing on a premium door. I'll stick my own seal in to resolve though. They are impressive doors, narrow, large and overall pretty slick. We have 8m x 2.5m high with a floating corner enabling the corner to be pulled back fully. Upgraded 2G glass as well. Around £13/14k incl fitment about 9 months ago ( ordered towards end of peak energy prices which hurt us), I do feel we over paid. We never shopped around enough due to the rest of the build, which I wish we did. So overall a mixed bag mainly due to fitters, doors are a real wow factor though.

Sorry, I missed first fix shell.... My bad! I'd estimate the £2500+VAT for finished 'basic' spec Yes, £2000 psqm plus VAT (ish) for 1st fix shell doesn't feel unreasonable. So much can be local market dependant though. Online estimators are worth a punt as a cheap QS alternative.

Combi for primary usage, electric shower for secondary?

Have you got a loft space you could use?

Have you FORMALLY asked NHBC? If not... Would be a shame if one corner was to suddenly get damp in the inside which could be connected to it? Which would(?) trigger their investigation into the subfloor. Just hide the watering can... (Probably £1000 excess, so research that first)

We have Smart Alitherm 600.... they're ....fine? We had a very bad fitter which we are still resolving but overall not much to really like or dislike with them. They just do the job. Builder spec'd them after we struggled massively to get people to quote, approached 7 companies...3 came back to us...Ali therm600 cheapest but more importantly could achieve our timings. I wish we had started the process earlier as we were railroaded into them due to timings & availability. They also (expletive deleted)ed the survey up which we missed, so we have mullions in places we didn't want them - you get used to it though. Just be careful you get the U Value of frame & glass...I was delighted how low the U value was until very late in the process when I realised the bastards weren't including the frame. This uplifted them all to an average of 1.4 which I was disappointed with, but it was too late.

£2500 plus VAT would be closer IMO.

Good work! All the best with your family.

What sort of material is it? Any pics... I'm curious as not come across such a deep worktop before!

75mm is collosal, the cabinets will also need some real attention for their ability to support it!

Just bumping this, we have been fine last few weeks with a 65% humidity and system working fine.... however the last few days it is stubbornly staying at full boost due to humidity. We did have a lot of rain & wind last night, I think blowing in the direction of the vents. When I check the filter, the inlet does seem mildly damp....could this be triggering the boost?? Is it just a matter of waiting for it to dry out & return to normal?

Thanks John, sounds like I'm on the start of the journey you were on. Suffice to say it's dawned on me hard how wrong a situation we are in. If I was to remove the actuators, does that open the zones fully? So if I kept one on thermostat live, controlling one zone... Then deleted all thermostats off our mobile app, then used that one thermostat to set a temperature profile. Would that basically enable control of the whole house against that one thermostat? Once trailed, I could look to disconnect and start dismantling the system. Leaving one thermostat per manifold (we have 1 x manifold for kitchen lounge half of the bungalow, then 1 x manifold for bedroom half of the bungalow).

We completed a bungalow with internal bricks walls throughout, meaning our UFH throughout was zoned 1 per room. Some zones are pretty big & consists of 2 loops or 3 loops per room/zone, but the bedrooms (5 of them), study, play room etc are all one loop/zone per room. What I am realising now, is that we are overly constrained from a zone point of view (wish I had realised this back in the day....). One option is to wire everything back at the wiring centre to run off a single thermostat..... so one 'thermostat' effectively actuates all zones but before I call out an electrician I wanted to check if there were any other options/suggest on how to improve the situation? (as I have a lot of thermostats that become redundant with the rewiring it idea.) Does heatmiser offer anything like this, other then the profile options? Any other ways to 'cheat' and get more zones together other then call back an electrician to rewire it up?

It didn't really come up tbh, I knew from a previous call their engineers are usually 2 weeks to arrive, and having already seen the circuit board I was pretty OK with swapping it out myself. Im sure if I pushed I could have got an engineer out from them. Just quicker and easier for me to take the 20mins and just do it myself!

It's a board, if you remove the front panel towards bottom, you'll see where it is. Not really hard, several screws and just remember where each clip goes. All plug and play,but I colour coded them to be on the safe side!!

C1 is one of the time programs. We had a random boost but with c3. I went crazy with it as it would randomly full boost around 2-4am. No reason at all for it. After a few back and forth with their technical support (who are pretty good actually) they sent me out a new circuit board which I replaced relatively easily. Touch wood, i think it's fixed it for me... But I still find myself waking up in the night, thinking I hear it, and running to check! So far so good though. Im now just in the process of resetting it from defaults one at a time to ensure I don't do something that randomly retriggers it. One bit of advice I was given,but only after I had replaced circuitbboard so never tried it, was to actually set all the time programmes to override the default "00.00.00" and see if that corrects it.... Then reset them again back to "00.00.00".

We had a liquid screed, cemfast or something, and didn't go with a crack mat. We did on the outside patio which sits on a normal concrete slab.

That is very cool! As you can see I posted above wanting to know more, but never got to it due to windows badly delayed. Not tested out house yet. How much did it cost? Which areas did you find drafts small and large, after the initial work put in?