Andeh

Check that cavity as well, how much rubble is in there? Beyond where you have rightly taken out a brick to check. All being said, this can be fixed!

This! And keep an eye on the quality of the work. You should have drawings that stipulate the amount if insulation to be installed? They form part of the contract of work needed, for payment to be made.

Have you paid the full balence? How complete is the work? . Cavity wall insulation can be retrofitted, and based in the imagine you've got of the roof pushing rockwool down the void with a broom is an option.

They are very prone to leak, so consider a decent slope for water run off and seal it all very thoroughly!

Samsung for me! Ever heard of similar with Samsung?

I got an identical email! I'm torn, but as they say their records say it needs doing in September 2025 it's one I will delay! Have to admit these servicing costs really add up! £250 + for electric gate (lots of greasing, fair enough) £90 + for double garage door (it sticks occasionally and needs adjusting under warranty so probably need to pay it to keep up with it) £250 for ASHP, questionable but warranty!? Air con units another one, can't remember but I've got one free service remaining!

We have porcelain tiles, and they don't get slippy.... But I do brush them down after heavy rain to keep them looking good! 😁 In the summer fairy up liquid, and a large broom every few weeks... Because they match the kitchen tiles and we have large sliders... having the same tile inside and our a flush threshold.. looks ace! Just a shame it's also a massive (expletive deleted)ing cold bridge because I took my eye off the build for one minute.... DAMN!

2 bricks ideally. I'd possibly compromise that with an acro drain and render covering above DPC. Not best practise, but personal preference.

We've had great service from https://cts-hvac.co.uk/

Our MVHR vents come through the same roof as our wood burner insulated chimney. Probably 3m horizontal and 2.5m vertical for seperation? Rarely do we get wood smoke pulled through, but it does happen when the prevailing wind is just right!

White render, black aluminium windows doors and the slate cladding was the style we went with! The finished off with some nice western red cedar cladding (I think it's called? Expensive stuff!)

Big batteries also last longer then most people realise providing temp extremes and charge speeds aren't abused!!

My job! Huge push for recycling big batteries across Europe, to reduce reliance on China etc! They are 95% recoverable for all rare materials. It'll work, but will take time to get up and running. Until then most good brands will have ethical supply chain.

Hot water making plastic pipes expand slightly and then contracting afterwards.... Potentially running against joists! Same as black guttering through the summer. Not sure there is a solution I'm afraid. Only way to solve is lifting up flooring and insulating the pipes from anything they might be touching. I remembering it very unfondly from my first house and the new central heating pipes every morning waking me up!!!! One to learn to live with!

Yeah, they likely are in the air flow... So it could just be basic thermodynamics at work.... You can't fix everything!!

If it could be/might not be related, we also find when we open the door the temperatures all jump up quite a bit in the winter. I assumed/think this as the corridor is warmer then the bedrooms (central if house, no windows, no stat on it) , albeit it it isn't an obvious thing? Bedrooms are 4.5m ceilings despite only being 9sqm floor as they have Mezzanines, so they are not the warmest rooms due to lack of floor surface area and high ceilings, also north facing.

From google/AI..... Apparently the below, Vent-Axia's anti-frost airflow mode, also known as frost protection mode, automatically activates when the supply air temperature is between 0° and -20°C Reduces supply airflow To prevent frost from forming on the heat exchanger, the supply airflow rate is reduced. Increases extract airflow To prevent frost from forming on the heat exchanger, the extract airflow rate is increased. Stops and restarts supply motor Depending on the temperature below 0°C, the supply motor can stop for 15 minutes and run for 45. Switches off supply fan If the supply air temperature is -20°C or below, the supply fan switches off.

Had our system running fine for 18 months now. UFH throughout, one stat per room and Vent Axia MVHR. It's a well insulated and average air tight home/poor to build hub standards (around 3), but it's cheap and warm. Something I havnt seen before though, is a sudden increase in lots of room temps this morning at 5.45am we experienced. MVHR was switched off due to frost mode (which I don't think I've seen before), but I'm assuming it had been off all night as the outside temps were consistent at around -3 all night throughout. The MVHR had frost mode enabled and 0% flow. Heating had been on low and slow all night. All doors were closed during this time... Below/attached is an example of what happened with the sudden jump up. Most rooms have similar, those with closer vicinity to MVHR more so. The wave type rise and falls, I think is the MVHR on a different frost management mode.... Ie it's not so cold it's shut down, but is managing itself by reversing the air flow occasionally, so the air movement is reflected in the stat readings??? (saw this last year as well, but only when sub zero ish cold) But the sudden jump up at 5.45, I just can't explain? But I'm sure it's linked to the MVHR being off, which I've also not seen before.....?

We got lucky, in the sense I'd never heard of it and had a few panic moments when I saw how close others got stung on build hub... But our area brought it in on 1st April 2024 and we got permission a couple years before then... So never had to deal with it!

The snob factor... Which I couldn't get away from myself...., albeit it we originally envisaged our windows differently (supplier (expletive deleted)ed up the style, and it wasn't spotted until installation... So we really got shafted!). Instead we paid more for lower performing windows "because aluminum". But PVC!? as if we'd build a whole new dream home and then fit PVC! 😉 Who says marketing and self smugness isn't worth buying into!!!! 😆

I'm afraid it feels like the ship has sailed, you are where you are! I have everything you could want in theory, full filled cavities, cavity closures which I then sealed to the brick work, expanding foam I think in the bottom under window, MVHR, long since dried out house etc etc etc.... And we still get condensation in some areas. If I were you, buy a dehumidifier, enjoy the added benefits it gives you in an even dryer house, bit of added warmth, and run it through the winter. You can't win everything!

Not sure about how to remove the tile... Multi cutter or angle grinder then a chisel from the inside out? not all showers are on tanked walls IIRC, albeit it not exactly best practise. I've stipulated it on our bathrooms before, but if you have moisture rates PB I'm sure some shrug it off? I've also always used grout spray to seal the ggrout for belt and braces. The above being me not being an expert!!

We have two bedroom windows that both suffer bad condensation when low single figures and colder, bottom 25% of all frame. Both North facing! Only two windows that do other then shower room. The ally sliders we have get light condensation along the bottom (cold bridged), but nothing to worth about. We're 18 months in and have MVHR. Ally windows are great for slim premium and metal.... But they will never be as thermally good as PVC etc. For the dozen times a year the condensation is at risk of trickling into the wood window cill I'll mop it up... But just one of those 'not ideal, can't fix it.... Learnt to live with it'

Never noticed any smell, even when we have heated it hard. I think we have a substantial draft coming down the area though, so come the summer I'm going to remove the rain shield and have a look at the flue and our warm roof interface, and look to use some fire rated rope and adhesive or equivalent to block the gaps.

Thanks Temp, I've kept a close eye on the pressure gauge and occasionally it gets up to 3 bar when the system is doing its thing heating and DHW, but generally hover around 2bar in operation. The fill loop has two valves which you can just see in the picture dead centre, but it doesn't seem to be leaking through. The pressure release valves feel like they are mimicking your comments on #1 point. There definitely still feels like a slow leak and then this random gush/water dump off at random that really kills the pressure!