Andeh

We didn't, as I was away, and we have a noticable cold bridge there!

Definitely check it all the same! At least they won't be total cowboys,octopus are a good brand.

Has it always done this? RF signal can be funny at times. I had an IR extender (mammox pyramid IR extender or something) to enable me to change TV channel from a different room... Sky box split between two rooms via HDMI SPLITTER. turned out, when it was in it blocked my house mates vauxhall astra remote locking. Assumed the pyramid's IR was so much stronger it drowned out the remotes. I wonder if you have any stronger IR in the house blocking things?

We're probably around 3 as an annual COP (I'll check shortly). 51 degree DHW and two tanks a day on a bad day is always going to come with a hit!

Imagine if any other product took this approach, you can only have your car repaired at the garage you bought it off or else no warranty... Or boiler install.... Price gouging would be rampant. An approved supplier fitting a material they are approved to fit should maintain a warranty from the approving supplier. Buying a product that can only be worked on by a single, price gouging entity, would mean I look at other products. That's a material fact that should be up shared up front. Time to read through the small price, and then look to recover costs via money claim depending on what's said.

Have you looked into the warranty terms and conditions, to see what it actually stipulates? Or ask them to show you where? That does seem heavy handed.

Had an "issue" with our Samsung ASHP where I had set an 'on time' for hot water at 6am to hit a temperature with an hour duration assuming it would then turn off, but instead I then had to also set a manual 'off' time. Maybe there is something equiv with yours?

Can you post up pics please?

Interesting! What caused the dud UFH?

I doubt it, get the work done and meet in the middle.... And both walk away. Building house is hard enough, without added emotions seeking compensation for this complicated shitty occurrences. If he does try to charge for it, use the cost of scaffolding etc to cancel it out.

So sorry OP,you have my sympathies! Every building has these moments, and If you've made it this far..... You've done well! I wonder if they could simply trim the entire top 5 inches off all the way round the roof light, then wrap a single layer of zone round each one over the top of the rest below. Almost like a sweat band going all the way round? Hinge then a req through it per single zinc layer?

Yep, know the feeling... I was meticulous over the thermal envelope, went away for a week leaving clear instructions for when they installed 8m of sliding doors...they ignored them... Failed to call me and I returned to a massive cold bridge along the entire length, made worse by flush tiles that really conduct the heat. And don't even mention the absolute (expletive deleted)ing asshole lieing dishonest electrician we had to put up with. Lost several grand to his dishonesty. As long as you get it right 85% of the time, you're doing well! OP, can you post up some pics of what you are referring to?

Exactly right, that's how we have it. Then if you find during the coldest period mid january it isn't quite keeping up (does with us in January, as we have a 'good' Insulated and 'good' air tightness.... But not class leading) spralling bungalow, high ceilings and lots of glazing just add an hour or so into the night time tariffs, but even then we pay an average of something like 15p/kWh over the year, and we have an electric hob we use during peak tariff periods due to children and diner time falling into it. We also keep our DHW around 52 degrees a day and go through a solid tank a day, so have it heated morning and afternoon. Edit, we have it so the DHW comes on 5.30-6.30am and 2.30 to 3.30pm)...ie mid cheap period so there is already warmth in the pipes dissipating into the floor when the system swaps over... But not at the end of the cycle where the temp in ASHP is 52degrees vs 35 degrees for UFH... Just my engineering OCD wanting to eek out every degree where I can.

A pressure washer will strip that paint away very quickly (move it to within 6 inches) , just be careful as if you catch your render you risk blasting that off! I'd then just use black masonry paint applied when it's all very dry. All looks to be aesthetics only.

Just FYI though, it's a thin paint so it will show up any imperfections!

Sign up to octopus cosy as a tariff (I can PM a referral for mutual credit for us both if you're interested?) it gives you three super cheap rates spread over the day for people with an ASHP. Then have your ASHP, via the controller timed so that it hits a default temperature you like during those cheap slots (21 degs etc), and leave it as that. We have our DHW via 300L rank timed to come on for an hour morning cheap slot and again afternoon cheap slot... All works very well, and very reasonably priced.

Not sure UFH would work well totally well. Especially with carpet in top. That slab is a helluva thermal mass and with perimeter exposed. Compromise would be going with one that has a thicker insulation bit. In our last place we retrofitted and it was 40mm thick I think? We lost it with a sort of ramp thresholds into the room. Heated skirting boards? Vertical radiators?

2 pack epoxy resin is what I use in the garage. Gives a car dealership sort of finish, but it's easy to clean and hard wearing!

Fair play to them, doesn't happen very often!

With the above in mind, I'd prob do detailing 3 but then aerogel as a thermal break against the block to the screed? Fix it in place prior to screeding so it is sandwiched.

Edit.... Double checked drawings and it might actually be detailing 1, it's been 18 months now and I can't fully remember! Apols Ours doors are sunk flush with the screed though, so we have a flush threshold inside and out to the tiles, and no cill. Means the metal frame sucks up the cold from the thermal bridge and then sends it into the tile/screed, hence my cold feet when I stand next to the frame... But 20cm out it's all lost in the warmth of the slab (hence wife 'well don't stand so close to the door then' comment) Doing it again I should have done a thin layer of aerogel on the inner door frame, between them and the screed and had the tile bridge the 10mm gap... As a crude solution I have retrospectiveky considered. It's the only thermal detail we really messed up tbh (albeit for the top 10% anal self builder, not the buildhub top 0.5% OK insulation detailing).

We were forced to do detail 3 by sliding door company, for flush internal to external floor detailing. It has left a noticable cold bridge of a few inches as the tile butt's up against the door on cold mornings, but with 8m of 2.4m glazing they wouldn't honour warranty unless sat on concrete. Wife tells me to stod standing with my toes up against the glass complaining it's cold under foot. 😁

Tidy job!

Good decision! No way will you regret it with the amount of insulation you've already got!

For that level of extreme air tightness, do what you can with expanding foam then go over it again with silicone and fill the holes that way!