markc

As above and yes the timber frame will settle a bit but it is going to do that over the next few years anyway hence the compressible strip around windows etc.

I would say they are BZP (zinc plated) decent drill, good clean hole and they will be fine

I love my makita battery stuff but I buy Yaber 5ah batteries and so far I can’t tell the difference.

Looks like a fairly standard top lip. These usually get fixed vertically after lining and levelling. and powder coat only will chip and peel off, I would have had it galv first.

Good morning and welcome. tight budgets are never easy and especially at the moment. loads of great advice on here. If you cannot find the answers by searching past posts, feel free to ask.

Small radius is ok, I wouldn’t use an elbow at the bottom of the stack to reduce hammer. As long as it’s a bend it will stay clear

If you are wanting to add or control anything else then you will need to pick up a neutral as well. the blues may be neutral, but not necessarily.

Technically they are both live. Turn switch off, 1 will be live, one dead. connect the permanent live to L and the other to O. leave the blues alone

Phewww . Much safer and less likely to put the fear of god into the eyes of Planners and BCO’s As the planning will be classed as one project then it’s unlikely you would get a split decision

What do you mean by compromises?

The foot stops the bend from rolling/sliding downwards. If properly supported and prevented from moving with concrete then no problem

In this instance I can’t see it making much difference, but reckon I would reinstate in its original location

Hi and welcome

It’s amazing how floppy steel stairs are until they are fully bolted up.

@pocster if the heads will not be visible then through anchors are easier but you have a nut visible like this https://www.screwfix.com/p/fischer-fxa-throughbolts-m12-x-116mm-20-pack/48990

Yes, that anchor will work well and bolt head is neat

Or you could use masonry screws. They work well and have bolt head

If you want a bolt head then you are into sleeve anchors. place piece, drill hole same diameter as the sleeve, puff dust out, back bolt out as far as is practice, insert into hole and tighten. https://www.screwfix.com/p/fischer-fsa-sleeve-anchors-silver-12-x-81mm-m10-20-pack/68793

Do you have a meter or voltage tester? Need to determine which wire is live feed and which goes to light

@saveasteading Another thought. the spec for a sedum roof should have had a very special roof coveringthat resists the roots. However it is not UV resistant, so be careful to see the whole designthrough if you make changes. That’s very good point.

A thin layer of well rounded pebbles should have no effect on the membrane and would protect if from dropped stones or flying debris etc. the layer would not need to be deep or heavy to break up the rainfall

Forgot to mention …. Don’t forget to puff the holes out. Dust is the scourge of resin anchoring systems

@Moonshine, gothe bit extra and get rid of the lead pipe. Take MDPE straight in.

Pack with washers or steel plate and grout after to tidy up. resin anchors make life much easier than sleeve anchors. put the piece in place and mark through the holes. drill holes (generally 2mm oversize than threaded rod diameter). put piece back in place. Squeeze resin into hole and spin the threaded rod in with reverse rotation … this forces the resin inwards and fills all cavities. leave to set then tighten nuts. this is much easier than trying to set the rods and then put the piece into place.

It could be asbestos! Often referred to as insulation board.