iSelfBuild

Fantastic. Will building control be OK with that? They will be inspecting it.

Above the lintel will be a timber wall plate, it looks like 3x2 or something (not crashed it out yet) the rafters go directly onto it. See the picture attached. All though the door will go virtually up to the gutter.

Pretty sure all the ones posted are not sufficient, you need a few course of brick above for them to be effective?

I only have 100mm to play with to fit a lintel to the underside of my utility room tiny lean to roof. I was going to go for a 6" concrete lintel but I don't have the room. The door is only 840mm wide. Can anyone recommend the type of lintel I need for a solid wall? My Dad said I only need one on the internal skin that supports the roof wall plate. Do I also need to do structural calculations for building control or will the inspector just agree it's way overkill and not ask. Like I said the roof is TINY!!!

Haha your windows are pretty nice too!

Fixed

Hello Everyone, Here is a little video update: Thanks again to everyone from e-build and this website for all your advice and guidance! The project would definitely not be to the same standard if I hadn't taken everyones advice and pushed the standards of the build.

Hey, how are you keeping @Nickfromwales ? Update on this one, my dad is ordering the all in one unit from DAB. We are guaranteed a water supply to the unit so it will never stop fully. I think it's getting to the stage now he just wants a quick plug and play solution and it's a nice little compact unit. Probably fit a UV water filter in line as well.

Hello All, Just about to order the air tightness membrane and tapes. I'm going with Passive House Systems, I met Sean at a show I was exhibiting at last year and their products seems great and found some decent reviews on here! The wall build up is as follows (outside in) - Siberian Larch, 25mm batten space, Breathable felt, 50mm batten space, 75mm EPS, Tyvek Dupont, 18mm OSB, 200mm studs full filled with rockwool) then another 18mm OSB on the inside. Plan is to add the air tight membrane inside with 25mm service battens and plasterboard over. That's all standard build up right? Anything special needed around the windows? We were going to carefully tape the air tight membrane around the reveals to the window then cover the tape with the plasterboard reveals.

http://www.ebuild.co.uk/topic/15814-boosting-water-pressure-whole-house-supply/page__hl__ boosting water Found my old thread! Geeez this project has dragged out!

They only guarantee one bar or so where their pipework stops. There is a private supply running from the lower site to ours. Supply comes in at 72m above sea level where they guarantee one bar. Our plot is 94m above sea level. I think this seems a pretty easy plug and play system. I could do a holding tank, pump and pressure vessels but it looks like it would work out way more expensive.

Hi Everyone, Our build in Scotland suffers from low water pressure (pretty much always, there is flow but low pressure (under one bar) and actual flow - which is sometimes none existent during the day at the peak of the holiday season due to a local caravan site. I have found this whole house boosting system. https://www.automatedenvironmentalsystems.co.uk/product/dab-e-sybox-e-sytank-complete-cold-water-pressure-system/?gclid=Cj0KCQjw1a3KBRCYARIsABNRnxu_LBr_WYBK0AKsY1ANeLSAVq5iKrThdLdJeW5bKvKFwI2ib31ehfMaAjPiEALw_wcB Has anyone come across it before, it seem a great price and product and the technical support has convinced me its a good option.

I'll try to find the time, absolutely love seeing peoples builds and I'm really impressed with your methodical approach to it all! My girlfriends parents are using Sam for their house re-build plans and they are very happy.

Fantastic Ian! Great to see it coming together, seems like an age ago since that chat in the pub.

That's the Chinese engineering/export stamp that manufactures who follow the rules use to mislead. Doesn't really help as some Chinese suppliers will put the official one on the product as well - which is against the law... Ask for the suppliers certificate of conformity and ISO 9001 accreditation. In reality nearly everything is made in China and the product from China is not necessarily bad. They will make whatever you carefully specify and deliver a quality to the distributor based on the demands and inspection. Its up to the supplier to release a product into the market that is fit for purpose. So many outsourcing goes on over there and there is a lot of 'agents' so definitely a tricky one to manage.

Timber batons would be the best bet IMO... Stack a few 4.8m batons on top of each other, bore out your holes. Thread them through and add some spreaders to stop the batten sagging. Count yourself lucky you don't need to do a full cage:

It's looking great Rob!

Best decision ever!

I work in the Precast industry and my colleague is in Dubai at the moment and has been introduced to this product: http://www.vodapruf.com/product/lightterm/ I have not even looked at the data sheets/website yet as he literally just sent it but it makes insulated concrete possible. If anyone has any thoughts please let me know, I will be studying it tomorrow at work

I can't quite make out the photos. My aluminium clad windows are externally glazed, when I spoke to competitors about how they remove the glass they all said you smash it out... yet the way we do it allows achievable removal - but only when the opening sash is tilted/turned inside the room or ideally removed off the hinges. Still... on a fixed pane that has been installed it's pretty tough and on these we have an internal timber bead that can in practice be removed without damaging the window and the beads. But I would reckon if any of the glazing ever did fail I would have to send out new beads on these ones as they would need persuading out and it's easier to just tap out the beads and damage them and keep well clear of the surrounding frame because that can't be easily replaced. Interesting regarding the security sealant/tape though... I must start specifying this for future projects. It shows it pretty well on this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KppeWfx-ZXA 4 minutes in.

I would be up for it, I used eBuild mostly and due to work/life commitments I'm more of a lurker on here nowadays. I never had the time to do a blog on eBuild or here but I have documented the whole build pretty well on Facebook - https://www.facebook.com/iSelfBuild/

I hope it all went to plan! Which waterproofing membranes are you using?

I'm sorry to say this but please be careful! We did a similar construction and it went wrong. The photos have disappeared off eBuild. Posted 03 January 2015 - 10:42 PM wmacleod, on 03 January 2015 - 10:10 PM, said: In light of http://www.ebuild.co...-object-lesson/ !!!!!!!!!!!!!! Ah well, never mind, I was only warning you because I know that horrible feeling when you get a bang followed by the sounds of a couple of tons of concrete raining down, I think most folk who have worked with concrete above 4ft have heard it at one time or another! It is very disheartening to lift it all into the mixer, place it, and then clear it out of the way again before it sets. Pokers are necessary to do the job right and get the concrete properly compacted around the rebar but they do have to be treated with respect. Makita do a 4ft battery operated one which is ideal if you can do lower lifts, just the right power and controllability. These things happen, don't let it get you down, a few days off does the world of good. Did you end up getting readymix in the end, surely you didn't manage to get it mixed and placed that quick?! I aimed to fill up a 30 m retaining wall (225mm cavity) about 1.2 m up all in one go - That was going to take 8 m3... a full wagon load. Smart thinking... I'll get the 8 m3 as ready mix and save money on a full load. Then after getting about 2 m3 in... POP - I did tell the wagon driver to slow down and move to a different shoot but my Dad said no we will get more in here and let it level its way out. BIG MISTAKE In reality, no matter how we filled it up on the day it would have popped open probably. Fortunately I managed to get another 2 m3 - 3 m3 in the rest of the wall and get it nicely evenly leveled out to just about level with the DPC skirt (DANGER POINT). This was partly due to the gutsy approach of the wagon driver and him aiming it from his wagon without a wooden shoot into some areas of the wall with military accuracy - WHAT A GUY! Enough was enough and I lost my bottle and told the driver to dump the rest at the top of the site. After firstly finishing what was in the wall and carefully compacting it with the poker to a good standard I turned to salvaging blocks from the slurry of concrete which laced the blow out area. I was really tired at this point it was about 7 PM and pitch black. I just threw them into a pile and focused on scooping away the concrete and dumping it a few feet away in a low spot that needed building up with hardcore anyway. Now we got to about 8:30 PM, I'm tired, cold and dripping wet with sweat - It froze really hard that night and was getting very cold! A quick drive to the local chippy and co-op and I get back with extra large chips, steak pie, sticky toffee pudding, and a bottle of wine which I stash in the microwave for later. Back onto clearing up the blocks and cleaning them off. As soon as that's done back to the top of the site... and the dumped concrete greats me - see the photo. I raked this out to the best of my ability but now I'm really, really tired and it's time to call it a night before I injure myself! Grab my food and hit the sheets... no logs in my log burner in the caravan tonight... our chainsaw had broken. FORTUNATELY it froze very hard that night and when I tackled the 'not planned' hard standing at 6 AM it's still workable and I can level it out. I clean off the blocks more, stack them nice and tidy and travel back home for a week break... Now we get to this stage and I post on here for advice - http://www.ebuild.co...632#entry103632 When I say "Annoyingly I need to mix about 4m3 of C35 grade concrete on site... Ready mix is not an option, trust me if I could do that I would!" It's due to the previous events. I managed to rebuild the wall and get the 4 m3 shortfall placed by mixing it all in my 90ltr mixer. Mixing it all on my own and shooting it down the slope using a large un-perforated twin wall drain pipe - It worked very well and the concrete I mixed seems very, very strong and to a good standard. All solid as a rock now and I've enjoyed my Christmas break but eager to get back up there and carry on. Attached Files

I have no idea how you lifted that unit on your own! Was this the tilt and slide? Did you take the sliding part out to fit it?

I'm so pleased you are happy! It was well worth the 100's of emails