tonyshouse

How far do the joists span?

Ok and yes to seal first, I use pva but some don’t like that.

Stapled on with compressed air stapler, 40mm galv staples, also pings angle beads on dead nice

No, it ain’t going to work — sadly

We can do it yes but they can’t- the volume builders that is

I gave up cripples, use single header beams over windows or double for wider openings replacing the outer one(s) with insulation , wood sheet inside additional insulation outside

I would remove everything back to plaster, looks like there might be some wallpaper paste residues left, these will cause peeling and can be hygroscopic. once all cleaned off wash with sugar soap twice then clean water then hot clean wet cloth - allow to dry and redecorate,

Does all the water run off the flat roof and down the glass? Or does the water go to a gutter or outlet somewhere else?

Is the plate being removed?

What type of ridges will you be using, we generally put the original ones back on again. I don’t like cement pointing to the long edges but do like them bedded on . Always mechanically fix exposed end ones

Big trouble there !!! Lead leaches lead oxide in rain water, even architects don’t know this, it is chemistry. The lead oxide in water etches glass! Leaving apparent white stains that won’t come off. two remedies, a) remove the lead, b) patination oil on both sides of the lead every six months - not recommended

? and therein lies the problem. Too many ways to fail including under the floor, over the ceiling, round services, in theory it can be done but I haven’t seen one yet

Wanting a good airtight house one would avoid dot and dab at all costs

G/f or first floor? one svp can serve two WC’s

I ALWAYS oversail the top sheet by 75mm

Does soil and substrata act as insulation?

Should work perfectly, you might need heating! What insulation will you have in the walls?

50mm sand blinding could/will percolate into the hardcore leaving a void the patio door sill is an unmitigated cold bridge more worrying is the sole plate and bottom rail of the timber frame sat on a dpc, I suspect condensation may happen on top of the dpc and if it does it will soak into the wood. Even without that problem the double plate is definitely a cold bridge.

It is fake news that 3g can be bettered by any 2g and nonsense Our uk plastic windows are poor quality and short lived, proper windows should last many decades

I use Lamtek for carcuses, any size and style then buy doors to fit , gets a away from multiples of 100mm for best use of space

But join at bottom of stairs, cold bridging up into gable wall

Take down the outside skin from 105mm back from the back corner to 525mm back and a similar slot at the front so that you can see the interna skin at the corner. beads should be glued together but will need protection

I would take down a 4 to 600 wide pillar of the g/f flank wall at least before building the g/f new walls so things can be tied in nicely. I don’t like the butt join at the bottom of the stairs, this will crack upstairs needs thought lots of cold bridging going on with the old and new gable walls

The amount of insulation seems wildly insufficient- 300mm of quilt or 150mm sheet insulation minimum, more is better better to do it mow than next time

Never move away from the best