tonyshouse

Are we talking lime or cement for the repairs? If it was mine I would slate pack the horizontal cracks, check to see if the LH side has foundations 50mm wide with a pick or wrecking bar half way along the bottom brick. Then fix SS expanded metal lathing, infill holes with lime mortar first, double nail the expanded metal at 300c/c and lime render it.

I would sit the Bath very low nearly touching the floor, and step in overt the taps , will work fine

Can you show us a full roof section please

I have seen nails and every third rafter with a 2.5mm 1m long strap over the top nailed with heavy gauge twist nails. These spread the load equally and pinch the rafter into the ridge beam, the one I saw like this never moved or deflected, glueliam ridge beam

Nails for me

I would place a sheet of 25mm eps berween the new and existing, on the top of old and up to under the drain against the wall I would cut the bottom of the trench clean and squared up. get concrete in tomorrow at all costs , try to finish exactly on a block course or 5mm below.

What are your intended u-values? in my book slow response =comfort, fast response = discomfort

The stuff about negligible benefits is nonsense, try living with MVHR. Wall airtightness = wet plaster. But join hermetically to the air tightness barrier in the floor and ceiling

Plain tiles are more likely to leak and should have had soakers down under the ridge tiles and probably didn’t. I don’t like the detail one bit, virtually guaranteed to leak, even with a secret gutter it might!

I hate sand blinding as it percolates through the hardcore like sand flows through an egg tier over time leaving voids min 100mm concrete, depending on size of the space could bev125mm.

EWI 200 or 300mm thick eps with breathable render either high tech modern or lime based

My view on moisture movement apart from flooding and spills is that moisture moves from places of high partial vapour pressure to places where the partial vapour pressure is lower. This is a downhill process, very basic. generally the pvp is higher indoors than outdoors especially if indoors is warmer than outdoors, the usual case. So moisture is trying to move from indoors to outdoors and from indoors into the substratas below the house. I have a basement with no tanking so limecrete for me! Heat will force moisture away but beware as the walls will be cold compared to a heated slab but even in the walls the pvp’s will be higher in the wall than outside.

I like a cube of concrete with an an RSJ buried in it dead plumb and in the right place, temporarily fix RSJ before pouring concrete, 800x 800 ,800

Usually now off the shelf windows are the same price cad made to measure. They used to 2 to 2.5 times more expensive. biggest timber windows company no longer hold standard size windows but make to order at a very reasonable price.

3g for me, in Central Europe 3g has been cheap than dg from the top manufacturers for over ten years now.

Join insulation seamlessly with insulation in the ceiling, I would use something like 100mm pir outside the ply right up to under the presumed glass. I like a good fall on the glass 3g with top pane over sailing on the low side

I would take 3 phase into house now SWA in duct then only use one phase in the house until you need more juice

I would take tanking up to floor level in the house next door

Top of doors in each room works for me, nice if lounge could have in and out somehow. Last resort is big gap under door you could try insulating the by digging down to the footings and adding say 100mmEPS vertically up to dpc. This warms up the whole floor Solongo as heat can’t escape up the cavities.

Good luck! Not sure that the sensible investment will be reflected in the property value, even replacement windows don’t get factored in. hopefully by time you sell things will have changed I like Boulder MVHR fitted in the hallway ceiling,all the big fan companies make small MVHR units, I would not go single room route. Minimise duct lengths. possible floating floor with ufh but if you insulate well might not need ufh. Are there flats above and below? ASHP can be done nearly on a diy basis, you may get away with one in the lounge only i can’t see EWI but that would be preferred to IWI, I like thick insulation, can you do CWI? how does hot water work? could you incorporate the path into your garden saving a fence? I now like slatted fences and using wood and posts and slats 3x1 can workout very economic and they don’t blow over, I prefer horizontal slats

Wood is likely a better insulator but I would do EWI too

I would build joists into pockets

No

There are things to check, loft insulation should most likely have been upgraded and ventilation needs to be more than just present, it needs to working, ie not blocked or restricted. were the ridge tiles mechanically fixed where necessary? other things that are compliance related could have been missed too.

You might mean kW the meter I knew about only ran the units backwards not the tens