tonyshouse

I think that you may well need planning permission for PV panels on a garage

It is called belt and braces, the evidence is there for not needing to do this, North America and I did see a paper that referenced constant 50 C doing sufficient sterilisation against Legionella.

I like fail safe

OSB is not dimensionally stable, it can expand if it gets damp. why use plasterboard at all, that doesn’t like getting damp either.

Nearly all of North America and Canada set at 50C, I have been keeping mine at 50C most of my life lower the better as less heat loss, you don’t want extra heat in the house if we get a summer.

Design out thermal bridges, design in insulation, ducts MVHR, solar, shading

I would start with target u-values, for me less than 0.1 for walls, floor and ceilings 0.7 for windows you may then find that you can design out heating, heating bills, servicing costs, repair costs replacement costs 1, Gshp better cop, 2 good idea, 3, 4 &5 pass

Between the beam and wall or between beam and block and sub structure?

Is it rain or condensation?

I like to sit the window board on the ledge formed by the top of the back of the sill like to fill the cavity with platinum EPS beads like biscuit joints in the mitres, love gorilla glue and packing to perfect position weighting it all in place and foaming in all the gaps

How many doors to get to outside?

Yes but it shouldn’t be, windows often on packers should get sealant on the outside as a minimum door sills should not be unsupported

I wouldn’t but you can, we will never know

Mortar for me

Or diagonal noggins under where the battens land

I think no breather membrane need a vapour barrier to prevent moisture getting into wood studs and plates no problem with pir except the cost and difficulty of working with it

I sow grass seed by hand very thin to allow room for the plants to establish, prefer non ryegrass mix 1/3oz /m2 and patience

I would report the high voltage to the DNO have had problems on both solar and hydro and both DNO tapped down the voltage on their transformers

Cutting and removing poly is ok plywood is 4’ wide 🙂 vapour barrier warm side, if pir then damp will go through studs and the warmer and longer it is warm inside the more this will happen you could poly on ply, I would do re insulate between, ply on again, more sheet insulation, poly vb, plasterboard I would do a floating floor with vb on top and joined to one in wall

You say :- 200mm Type 1 MOT 50mm Sand Blinding 150mm Concrete slab 200mm PIR insulation UFH Pipes 50mm Screed I would go thinking top down :- 75mm Screede, 150mm concrete, dpm/vb, 300 EPS, no sand blinding compacted recycled crushed concrete.

DO NOT PUT POLY ON THE COLD SIDE OF THE INSULATION! Vapour control needs to be on the warm side. if poly it needs to go I prefer no membrane but you could use breather layer. inside I would add insulated plasterboard or insulation and plasterboard, Best to get this from the US as sounds like 24” centres and we use 600c/c thicker the insulation the better and so could you add more externally?

Internorm. I made my own

Usually for green roof joists are thicker and deeper and closer together the decking 28mm stronger ply too

Yes, soil and water are heavy so structural calcs should be carried out, not good the puddle, small roof is more likely to pass

In the recent thread about a gatepost concrete foundation we had a steel section running up the middle of the brick pillar