JohnMo

Just shows why our grid pricing is completely screwed up! But I'm not going to turn away from a gift horse, while it's available.

I mentioned it before the weekend on another thread. Not far fetched. I used a referral and got £25, then on Friday an export earned £4.85 from Axel plus got paid by Octopus as well at 12p/kWh. They also state you will earn £10 per month. if you would like a referral code, just ask.

It's a bit like saying how much gas will I use. The log usage (cost) really depends on the house heat loss and how hard you need to burn. When we run our 6kW log burner, we run it at very low loads, one log at a time, so about 2 logs has burn time of 3 to 4 hrs, you may have a higher heat loss so run 3 to 4 logs and lots of air, so get through loads more than me. Cost also depends on how you source the logs. We have plenty of wood from cuts down down the build so zero cost, except my time. Way to many variables to give you a cost that is meaningful.

Nice trip hazard! If you need to it in the plant room, do you need to do it to every wet room, a fitting may leak while you out for the day? Do you have a floor drain? That maybe all you need. If not your hot swimming area will be difficult to empty anyway. Maybe over thinking it, our cylinder is above the kitchen, is it bunded area no, have I had leaks yes, were they an issue, no.

Wet rooms have tiles, main living space oak, bedrooms carpet (it's rubbish with UFH)

Explain? It close too which means what?

Are you all have open cladding, so you do get plenty of driven water in there? Otherwise a little OTT. I would be more interested to see how you are keeping wasps out, one small crack or warp they seem to get behind the cladding, then they start building nests.

And they are showing a 15kW heat pump. So unless you house is several 1000m² it's a bit large. Are you going for the grant or doing outside the grant? I have found very little difference in running costs doing DHW via immersion only. Which is outside the grant allowed method of heating. But direct immersion heating reduces install cost and cylinder cost. Heating design you have two options, but both options require a room by room heat loss calc, this allows sizing of room UFH array and radiator sizing. Option 1 is to run everything designed for the same flow temp. Then ideally run as a single zone. Option 2 run at different flow temperature. Then you may need zones, your smallest zone defines system volume. Which you need to add water volume to meet a 20L x min output kW if heat source. But a mixer driven by ASHP could have it's own WC curve so be operated as a single zone. No option above needs a LLH or buffer. Another option is to do fan coils in rooms upstairs and this gives you bedroom cooling (radiators don't), the UFH can do heat or cool anyway.

Just follow manufacturers instructions of chosen membrane. If you need additional belts and braces for airtightness, your primary airtightness measures need to be looked at.

If I was doing it I would do something like this with mineral wool. Easier to work with than PIR, use a breather membrane and you end up with all the ventilation drafts eliminated also.

Fix without them?

ASHP, all electric, but have a stove which gets used infrequently. Voltage moves about a fair bit, grid is currently 244V can be as high as 153V. Used to get a few short power cuts, but our battery now hides this.

Historic politicians came from a very small pool of the very rich and privileged. So not really a modern issue. Isn't that another issue itself?

No signed off a year later. Have 4 houses by us all new builds, none signed off yet, all inhabited.

There was thread on this yesterday also, maybe you should read that as well.

Why would they, I could be health secretary, even though I zero understanding of how the whole NHS works (or doesn't). You are appointed, doesn't seem on your particular skill set, just if you face fits.

We just got normal insurance didn't have a temporary habitation certificate - had never heard of them at the time. We just moved in like most people do. Told the insurance company we still had work ongoing, which wasn't an issue.

There are a few dotted about, but nothing I can see from the house. The other night was very still, looking at the grid voltage at the time of the export event it was very low also.

The government knows how to setup schemes, that promote tax payers money being wasted. If you have a 4G do that, with an external aerial, if needed, job done.

Use a thread sealant, I like to use Loctite 55. Some versions of that tap come with PTFE tape to seal the thread.

That's what drives the flow temperature, if you have lower room temps you can operate at a lower flow temp without issue. Not sure I buy that with a well thought out floor design. We are at 300mm and cannot see any variations in floor temp, but pipes are 100mm down, nearer 120mm if you include the wooden floor. Proper cooling thermostat will have this. We have humidity control in one of our sensors. That's a strange one - any obvious reason for this rule?

Definitely for the first few days until you understand what happens.

Your 3 way diverter valve will be upstream of the buffer, so buffer will stay cool, while the heat pump moves from cool to heating mode, it will swing the diverter valve, heat cylinder, then swing the diverter valve back and change mode to cooling. You may get a small slug of hot water into buffer. dT sounds fine, it will greep down possibly, mine is currently sitting at 2.3 degs. But it runs at max flow rate while cooling.

Surface temp has to be below localised air dew point - so not that likely.

When you move in, then declare to your normal home insurance provider, you are still doing xzy scopes.