JohnMo

Really depends how you do it and roof overhangs etc. if required and acro drain will just move the water away out of harms way. Just a matter of planning what you need to do and implementing correctly.

Really wouldn't bother, tech will change by the time you get it working. Or you will change your phone it it won't work.

Only one access point needed. But we have flat access to every door, either on to decking or patio. But whole house is single storey so why not. Nice future proof, you never know what's ahead of you or your family.

Assume NI same as rest of UK and the unvented cylinder would require a G3 certificate to cover the unvented cylinder install. The heat pump install would be asking the commissioning person for a commissioning certificate.

We don't have edge as such. Small step down to gravel

What is an inverted heating system?

Pretty much exact same. Hep2O will also go into Tectite fitting

You also will need to a ramp down to your parking area from that. I just made a very shallow incline direct from parking area to the level threshold in paving slabs. Never found weed suspension membrane to work. The weed are generally blown on the wind and find their way in from above.

Never seen a need to tank a shower room and in my 60 plus years and never seen an issue. Only ever used moisture resistant plasterboard around the shower and normal elsewhere. Tiles direct to the plasterboard. If you foam the plasterboard on or batten and screw it's not going anywhere quickly.

Pretty wide range of pricing there.

Integrated multi outlet or all mounted. Should be easy to do if you plan ahead Cool Energy do fan coils for bathrooms, with towel rail also

Why go mlcp, and not just Hep2O? Hep2O is easy to get, pretty idiot proof (that's why I like it) and no special tools needed. Mixes with copper easily.

Well you have answered your own question, as you have already sorted out your storage of the bits. Why build that big, you must rattle about in there

And the spares, where did I put them? Bugger I've looked everywhere?

No, not high enough to mitigate wind disturbance Would they have applied?

Good indication you aren't getting much heat transfer.

What I notice with UFH cooling, it knocks of that uncomfortable couple of degrees at the high end, AND the house actually feels cooler than the gauge would imply. But importantly the recovery time to more normal feeling temperatures is way quicker in the evening.

Our last house had a fully insurance approved and maintained alarm. Out of interest, at one renewal time for insurance, I asked to quote with and without alarm and got the same cost. All these things were true if I declared the alarm. Kept the alarm, didn't declare it any more.

True

You have to be careful with hybrid roofs. Otherwise you end up with condensation issues, as you seem to be aware of. Suspect you already have issues, you have a vapour barrier at plasterboard and above it with bitumen vcl. So any humidity that finds it's way in the roof structure is stuck there. My thoughts are adding 25 or 50mm just isn't worth the effort. If you concerned with shrinkage get a thermal camera and see if you have issues. May need a cold night to see if you have a thermal gradient between inside and outside.

I assume this will be a professional installation, otherwise worth nothing as far as insurance is concerned? So would suspect the installer would be the best person to talk with and they would be well aware of the correct mix of components for a good glitch free install of your house.

Completely agree. Many on are talking about what if.. lots of multiple systems on one circuit etc. Who in the right mind would bother. You are royally ripped off on one system, so why would you buy multiple systems. Plus if your in a flat (the reason these systems exist) where do you put all these panels for multiple systems, most would struggle with a couple of large format panels.

Couple that to heat pump monitor, that will add an electric meter, a few bits and bobs, and you get full monitoring. We have the same heat meter. 4th or 5th push of the button also gives you kW as an instantaneous reading. You have dT available to read. Will give stuff like this, it's ace for understanding what really happening.

Just reread this. Not sure your expectations will match reality with wet UFH. So to throw a spanner in the works. Modern well insulated houses don't have warm floors with wet UFH, the UFH flow temps are just too low. You max flow temp is likely to sub 30 degs at the coldest outside temperature, and that doesn't give a warm floor. You won't have cold floors either, but the floor really will not be noticeable warm. Typically floor surface temps are 1 to 3 degs warmer than air temp depending on heat losses.

Your manifolds have the valves you need - the flow meters. Start with all flow meters on the manifolds fully open. Let the heat pump run for a day. If whole house is too hot, your flow temp is too high. If the odd room too high turn the loops in that room down a little. Reassess the next day, do some final tweaks. If the odd room is too cool, the flow temperature is too low. increase flow temp a degree. After a day reassess, some loops may need to be reduced. Now as your flow rate changes from the ASHP, the loops will pretty much self balance.