JohnMo

I used Outsourced Energy for my materials. Did my own plans, using a free trial of loopcad. As you are not allowed to notch Posi joists, would you take bends through the gaps in the joists? That seems to be the only option.

Is that then fraudulent, as you claiming payments on something fictional. Example. Have EPC done, renovate to passivhaus standards, claim payment based on a leaky seive of a house, would be the ultimate be extension of what you are saying is legitimate. Cannot see how that is correct.

Our fire has a throttle valve (not sure it's call that) which shuts the air of completely.

As I said prices are stupid, the system is costing £6k more than an oils system. Why? You may be getting hands out over a 7 year period, but prices are over inflated.

I have two units (1x big and 1x small), big one serving most the house and second the two spare bedrooms, one ensuite and the main bedroom en suite. They will borrow air from other areas but that is fine, as long as the system is balanced as a whole and the individual units are also balanced.

As others have said, state you cannot keep paying the builder and tell him his services will not be required after date xxxx. Inform him to remove all materials not belonging to you. Once he is off-site, his insurance on your property is void, so what you do is of no concern to him or the now lapsed insurance. Don't ask questions, of BC where you may not want or like the answer. Assume you need fires for a multi level house. Just live on the ground floor so escape isn't an issue.

I still can't get my head round what people are will to pay for a heat pump. Pricing is stupid expensive.

We had a very small hidden leak, which dripped once every couple of hours, we got plenty of mould by the time we spotted it. Localised humidity will have little affect on the total room humidity and would not trigger the humidity sensor.

We used fibre reinforced concrete

I'm going to using 3x2 concrete slabs cemented in place.

My option is and it could be wrong. Any small gap water will settle, the smaller the gap, then more capillary action will hold it there. Give mould half a change it will take hold. I would say it needs to be grouted or sealed in someway. The only thing if the sides of the tile are glazed that may help, if they are not, they may absorb moisture and make thing worse. Doing nothing, may be a high maintenance finish, needing plenty of cleaning.

How well insulated is your house first as it makes a big difference.

Sory got my numbers wrong it is 100 global companies are responsible for about 71% of all CO2 emissions anyway? Oil and coal equate for most of it. There is always a flare, on each offshore production facility and each refinery which will be circa 0.5 to 2 mmsfd (million standard cubic feet a day) in normal running conditions, in upset process conditions could as much as 40 to 50 mmscfd or even much more. Offshore production will also have power generation of 30 to 40 MW by gas turbine driven generators, 1MW on a drilling rig which will be diesel powered. So not that small.

MVHR will not spread the heat around effectively, you can still have very hot and quite cold areas, you are doing less than 0.5 air changes an hour.

Carbon neutral should work, CO2 produced to generate, equals measures to remove the same amount of CO2 from the atmosphere. In reality that means, you take statistical data, you manipulate the inputs and outputs to meet your own political wants and needs, exclude things like airports and air travel, and anything else you get political pressure from or is really difficult - then you get carbon neutral. Doesn't really matter what you think or voice your options about, that is the reality of government. Isn't it 7 global companies are responsible for about 80% of all CO2 emissions anyway?

If the tree has fallen over of a branch has fallen off, that would rot naturally and release CO2 back to atmosphere. If using this work you be closer too carbon neutral, but anything taken down to burn, just released loads of CO2, so not carbon neutral. I did consider going the same route as you and just settled on a normal log stove. To save complication. You really need a thermal store to make solid fuel work, but they may not be best for ashp. I did see a German stove that could directly connect to an UFH loop to spread the heat further, but was huge money. Trouble with the connection scheme they show for the combi is there is no storage for the hot water, once you light the fire most your house thermostat will switch and you will just be dumping heat. If your house is well insulated, you won't have the fire on for long without melting yourself. We have a single stick on at a time for about 30 mins.

According to data sheet it should be fine for floor and soft wood https://www.rockwool.com/uk/products-and-applications/product-overview/fire-stopping-products/acoustic-intumescent-sealant-en-gb/?selectedCat=downloads

Need to fill all gaps, and tape them. The screed will weight it down. You don't want the screed to under the insulation or that's a world of pain. Prior to UFH heating pipes cover insulation with thin DPM and tape all joints.

If the scope is for the contractor to complete, ask him how he intends to complete the scope. If its not his scope get someone else.

Why have loops in hall and utility, there are tonnes of pipes going through that space already. As Dave says your corridor is in the centre of the house, it will borrow heat from elsewhere. Strongly suspect the hall and utility will suffer from overheating, as designed. Would not have UFH pipes under beds either. For the time it takes I would download loopcad of free trial and review the design yourself. You tell Wunda sell pipe! Have considered 200mm pipe spacing? Are you having electric towel rads in bathrooms? For summer drying. If I was doing it again I would do electric UFH in bathrooms.

Huge and bulb replacement, means scaffold to do it safely. Think carefully how you will maintain once furniture is in place. Low level up/down lights work well and are maintainable.

You may find any warranty is void if not bonded with the correct adhesive on a concrete floor with UFH. Read the manufacturer installation instructions, for whatever make you are choosing, there will be a defined method. Our clearly stated that.

Do you have room at the top of the roofline to install external insulation instead, a single layer of 120 to 150mm, would be easy to install and give better u values.

Have a look at the kingspan website that should give you some ideas. Plenty of companies with solutions.

If you are really concerned why not look at coanda effect nozzles.