JohnMo

Yes, the fatter the wood the more effort, especially if there is a bit of warpage. Taking the blocks apart a day after is not the easiest. They are all taper joints. We had 60mph winds the other night, without the storm bolts/studs in place. No issues. Our storm braces are 2.5m long studs, going between top and bottom blocks one at each corner.

Our window fixing details were by our structural engineer, and as such part of our structural design certificate - but we are on a windy exposed site with larger than a normal house windows. Window installer details were slightly different, but they went back to our structural engineer to get their details approved prior to starting work.

Did you watch them being installed, if so did the seal the gaps around the window frame and wall with anything. If they didn't you may have a big thermal bridge, basically cold outside air one side and warm inside air the other side of the silicone. If you don't have MVHR you need trickle vents. Did the ones removed have them?

Walls are woodcrete ICF, so don't burn easily. Everything else effectively self insured. Someone stole a wheel barrow, that was all, so I was lucky.

Basically the opening is way bigger that the window frame. The window and doors have flange pieces either side and floats in the opening. Nothing is attached to the logs. Not the best for airtightness but... You can't have everything.

"COMPUTHERM Q7RF." Available from Amazon for about £50

Load of tosh from the builder, you just balance the flows so the rooms don't overheat. Your idea sounds good. If you have a thick screed, the response time is super slow anyway. Then the thermostat is useless, unless you specify 0.1 hysterisis ones.

I had none, told all trades to take their tools home at night. All companies should have have their own liability insurance etc.

I think I would simplify the insulation shape, so you eliminate the void below the gutter. It's just going to fill with debris, however hard you try to stop it. The small triangle make more square so it sits just under the gutter, the piece under that also becomes more simple. Where your membrane mets the composite roof panel, you need something with a long life and remains sticky otherwise you will end up with is leaks. How about butyl tape? But better just eliminate the membrane idea and do the whole lot in butyl flashing. Or do it properly with lead, so it will last a life time.

No make sure every pipe is insulated ideally with at least 25mm thick insulation. I would also look to box the lot in an insulated box, so any heat leaking out of the cylinder and or piping is contained and forms a warm space for it to live in. Then who cars about the the rest of the room space.

If you install a screen, do angled (say 45 deg) vertical slats to turn the flow down the passageway, or horizontally to throw the air upwards.

I have two units a big and small one, the big one was £320 and the small £250. Both from eBay, retail price circa £4k for both from Titon.

Day 2 progress. Stripped walls down to board level 3 (removing about 7 layers) as one of the logs was twisted and caused a big run off at one corner. Built the walls back up and now at roof level. Used the twisted logs at the higher levels, bit of a faff but all good.

In Scotland it actually says "Centralised, balanced supply and extract with / without heat recovery recovery" So MVHR is not mandated, as such, but sure there is much on the market that could provide centralised and balanced other than MVHR.

Just had a look at building regs in Scotland and to have passive stack ventilation your house has to leak more than 5m3/m2. So not really airtight by any stretch of the imagination. Believe you would also need trickle vents in windows or walls as well. On the plus side the room outlets have to be moisture triggered, so it only vents when needed.

Other than what has already been said above. You need to actually go though the plan, line by line and make sure you know the cost of what has been specified. If there is a make and model on the drawing, make sure you are happy paying that cost. The builder will assume you are and will not deviate to save cost etc. UFH needs lots of insulation or you will pay to heat the ground. £17k for ASHP and cylinder is taking you for a fool. If you stay with gas go X plan, so UFH can fire the boiler at a lower temp than cylinder heating. Specify a heat pump cylinder sized (with 3m2+ coil) for a heat pump with storage temp below 50 deg. Boiler efficiency will be over 100%. Get another quote.

The boards at the base are there for ever. That is the base frame the cabin sits on and will be filled with insulation inside and form the floor. The bits at the front will never be seen as there will be a cantilevered small deck with a step hiding it.

No, your the second to ask that today. It's from gardenhouse24.

They seem to have additional nourishment all through the winter and plenty of neeps. The field is about 200m x 250m could be bigger. They have another bigger field they get rotations in also.

There about 40 sheep in the field next to me (if that helps), but most are lambs so not much use for shearing yet. Farmer has to pay to have them sheared and then also has to pay to get rid of the fleeces.

Some progress today before the rain.

Good suggestion, just move the 50mm to the bottom, then dpm. Running pipes in this https://www.thefloorheatingwarehouse.co.uk/product/thermrite-joisted-floor-insulation-panel-3-grooves-at-115mm-centres/ Simple 2 port manifold, https://underfloorheating1.co.uk/product/premium-2-port-underfloor-heating-manifold?/?utm_source=googleads&utm_medium=paid&utm_campaign=performance-max&gclid=CjwKCAjw5dqgBhBNEiwA7PryaEz_YJ3XV-YLCC8pyi_QoZP6WTWi1QF9p9tlzNyb1WMcRo0CyNccYRoCibkQAvD_BwE Two loops of around 50m, driven by ASHP, giving heating and cooling.

Now started the build. Base formed with 3x2 council slabs on concrete. Asked for the bases to be flat and level, overall it not, there is 12mm run off over about 4m. Compensated so far with shims. So above the base to form a space for floor insulation, floor and an overhang for decking have built a frame using 2x 170mm X 45mm timber. This is under the floor framing that came with the kit. Floor buildup will be as follows. DPM, 100mm EPS100, 50mm EPS100, slip membrane, 2x layers of 9mm OSB, glued and screwed with staggered joints, 50mm battens at 400mm centers, infilled with 50mm UFH EPS mouldings, with UFH pipes at 115mm centres. This will be overlayed with tongue and groove flooring. Overall there will be 200mm of EPS 100 insulation in the floor. Walls next

By inside do you mean between the panes of glass, where the argon is, or inside the building?

So what do you do with all that data? Reason I ask is because you boiler looks to short cycling?