JohnMo

Flat and above ground small concrete ramp up. Never slope a garage floor.

And replacement of bio diverse forest with mono crops, and the huge impact on wildlife and species diversity.

What everyone misses is the electric cost associated with a boiler. So the pumps and controllers etc. they use the electric as a heat pump. Those costs are included in a heat pump SCoP but missed conveniently from a boiler. We can regularly be using 40 to 60W Our heat pump generally gets a CoP when heating of around 4 to 6, this diminishes with standby in mild weather to closer to 3.5 to 4. But as it gets colder daily CoP gets better due to less standby costs. Interesting is a poorly insulated building with a low design temperature will always beat a well insulated house with like for flow design flow temp, because with a well insulated house your standby and DHW generally are higher than running the heating. A hybrid heat wins the day most times. Leave heating system as is, basic heat pump generally about 4kW will do most properties. Heat pump can generally supply enough heat through that system cheaper or as cheap as gas, down to 4 to 5 degs. But with none of the emissions issues. After that you start to get frosty of the condenser and a hit on CoP with the heat pump, so switch over to gas at that point. Very low capital costs, £1500 to £2000 plus a days work. 3 houses for the same as a one house grant.

Tap to the house was almost closed also

If putting water in you need anti freeze, otherwise you may end up splitting pipes if they freeze. The alternative is just air. I used Glycol/water in mine, once pressurised, I left it like that until I connected it to my boiler.

I flushed and filled via a flush and fill valve. Like this https://www.bes.co.uk/22-mm-3-4in-solar-drain-flush-valve-20994/ Used the inlet and outlet to throttle down the flow and have a sub 0.5 bar system pressure while flushing. Initial flush was done on a higher rate, maybe 5 to 6 l/min via a 100m garden hose. But mostly to replace the glycol etc. When I was happy everything was clean, I needed to reduce flow down to about 1 l/min or less to get low conductivity reading, for this a switched on the heating circulation pump and manipulated all three valve on the flushing valve unit, to set up a slip stream through the de-ioniser filter and let it run for about 8 hrs one day and same again a couple of days later.

I recently did a study on HVO (hydrotreated Vegetable oil), not bio diesel, which is full of nasty chemicals, and bad in lots of ways. HVO sounds great on paper, until you start looking a little deeper. So used as a green alternative to diesel, in use almost identical to diesel. Effectively used cooking fats etc. treated by heating and filtering. Tail pipe emissions almost identical to diesel, same soots, same everything.

How is it plumbed in and wired in - sorry not enough info to work with. Photos are always good.

If it's a separate planning permission, to the house not sure you can apply.

Think you can specify either.

Is 250mm the total wall thickness? If so you are only talking adding 50mm? If you are blowing in insulation think towards EPS beads, these will be tolerant of wet getting in the cavity and self drain it away. They will also move easily to fill the whole space.

Spending several £100 thousand building a house, and you would actually want someone else body waste gong through you cellar or even under your house, when it is all finished. Perhaps you need to step back and have a think about it.

That LLH looks nothing like anything Clum sell. Sorry that's bonkers, how can you have 19 room spaces in a 5 bed house? Do some room have more than one thermostat? I would be better looking to simplify the whole system. Are your running costs ok or a big?

Many variables to take into account. Start at 25 flow at 20 outside, then look at your heat loss report and design report, set the other end of the curve to your design outside temp and design flow temp. If house is too warm after 24 hrs reduce the cold end of curve, if to cold increase. Do 1 Deg at a time to see how it changes things.

Our Greenwood CV2GIP, is in our garden room, also, it was also £60 on eBay. It is set on min speed, and completely inaudible. We originally had another make and it was quite noisy. Only thing I have done is take the front cover off to see if it was still running - which it was.

£400 for trickle vents, not anyone sane would accept that.

The fan can go through any outside wall or through ceiling and out the eaves. Ideally as far away from door as possible. You do not have a ventilator or trickle vents in wet rooms. Same with wall ventilator. Trickle vents or wall ventilator do exactly the same thing. Manual trickle vents are not the same, the home owner will just close them and 6 months later say they are drafty and say oh, look I have mould no idea why. There are many makes, some with noise reducing measures etc. Whole thing that makes the system work is cross ventilation. If the double glazing unit is misting between the glazing it's broken. If it's just misty on the inside after a night's sleep, the ventilation is really poor.

So really need install details Radiators or UFH No. of thermostats Buffer or no buffer Design flow temp Make model of heat pump (sounds huge). Heat loss calculations. How is it currently set to run, bouncing of thermostat(s) at a set flow temp or weather compensation? Etc...

Lucky you only have one set of curves, our Atag boiler, had one set of curves if you used their controller, very similar to Viessmann. If you didn't use the controller the boiler had a different set of curves you could use which are numbered differently and start at different temps, ranging from 20 degs to 26 degs flow temp at 20 deg OAT.

Because in years time the drain may be blocked? And how do you then clear it?

I would agree, but industry would call the dMEV. But they are really dDCV, when coupled with humidity controlled inlets 1. Intermittent - yes hate them, they are generally very poor performing especially generic builders merchant ones. Lots of noise, not much flow.

Couple of issues The W/m2 looks huge for your heat loss value. With MVHR your ventilation heat loss, drops to 100 to 150W. Not 1.5kW. So reality your W/m2 should be half they are quoting. The dT quoted is rubbish, you would be in 3 to 5 range heating the floor direct from heat pump. The smaller the dT the higher the output for a given flow temperature. So would really be flowing 30 or less. It also makes the flow rates quoted as rubbish, the lower the dT the bigger the flow rate. The other thing you need to look at is your house design temp, is -5 low enough, really depends where in Inverness-shire you are. I am in Elgin, we had a month worth of days that hit -9 last year and the year before.

So the real issue is no proper ventilation. Not sure MVHR is the answer. MVHR is really for energy saving when you have done everything else. You will be spending £2 to 4k on hardware and plus if paying for getting it installed, not really getting benefits from heat recovery, so why bother. Plus pumping air in and of the property on a continuous basic (electric) plus replacement filters. A more practical solution is MEV or simply do dMEV. A fan in each wet room, run 24/7 and only boosts when needed. You need either trickle vents in dry rooms or a through wall vent. These should ideally modulate themselves open or closed based on humidity. Get the following fans, they are silent, they auto boost only when needed and only need power no need fir switching boost etc. Greenwood CV2GIP, you can get for £70 on eBay. They draw between 1 and 3W when running. Then something like this is the dry rooms, https://www.bpdstore.co.uk/glidevale-fresh-99h-humidity-sensitive-wall-ventilator/p/231 as you have no trickle vents. The other thing to do is undercut (6 to 10mm) the internal doors to allow cross ventilation with the doors shut. Less than a £1k, the saving will pay for a lot of energy. Plus demand based dMEV looses very little heat, the vents basically close down with no one in the room.

https://www.outsourcedenergy.co.uk 12 miles from Exeter centre.

It's just a bunch of fitting soldered together. I would start to ask yourself do you really need it, its a rubbish design (well not really designed), its just about a close coupled tee, without the what looks the incorrect dimensions, as its way to short. I would look at your heating system and advise what you have Heat source, type and size in kW Heating system - UFH or radiators or both, how many loops and or radiators How many thermostats in operation? And an assessment of do you really need them I suspect your CoP will be very poor.