JohnMo

Homely is running the heat pump changing the demand flow temp etc. to get lowest running costs. I would be careful trying to hard, Homely may just throw a wobbly or just overwrite your settings anyway. If it's mild outside any heat pump will only run a short while because the radiators or UFH cannot shift the heat quickly enough. The only way to make it run a long time, is to use an elevated flow temp. If want Homely to run your heat pump then let it do so, or remove it and set it up yourself, not sure there is a middle ground. Homely is set to manipulate any or all heat pump settings to get the best energy usage/cost.

Move your energy to Octopus now, they will disconnect for zero cost. Alteration will still involve a meter and standing charge. Disconnect will not.

So there is no second home taxes to pay, or increased council tax etc. Not sure why there would be unless she already has a house registered in her name. As first time buyer not even sure there is stamp duty to pay. What the property firmer use was, is nothing to do with what you purchase for. For this purchase it will be your daughter's primary home.

Thought you were were putting in your daughter's name? Anything else will cost lots, second homes are expensive in Scotland.

Are you pretty much airtight or still a leaky Victorian house?

You may need to isolate the manifold, depressurise the manifold and take the flow meters off and clean them. This is what they look like internally. A little valve is pushed by a water flow against a spring

If you look at the best performing (CoP and SCoP) on the heat pump monitor, they all cycle quite a lot. It's a normal behaviour.

Low noise mode will reduce output across the board doesn't make it want to modulate more. If you have Homely it's sorting out the running modes. What are trying to fix?

We have UFH through out, all acting as a single zone. I flip about how I run the system, weather compensation and batch charging, but have over the last week been running a slightly elevated flow temp over night (around 32), then using floor as a storage heater (batch charge). But have less UFH pipes in the bedroom so a lower output (or you could reduce flow through those loops). We keep the bedroom doors closed throughout the day, so they don't get as warm, as the rest of the house. So most of yesterday the house had been at just above 21, bedrooms just below 20. By 10pm the house has cooled to just below 21, heating generally off until after midnight. It then starts up again and charges the floor. Heating the floor is a slow affair, so by 0730 the house is back to 21. Just use a simple 0.1 hysterisis thermostat to control. Thing with UFH it's very different to radiators, the change in room temp or house temp takes an age to change. But all done with flow temps are quite lot lower than radiators.

Bit of conflicting requirements - you want to calculate but you also just want 3 phase. Why bother calculating? Although no idea why a domestic house needs 3 phase! If as stated, it could get away with 4kW, would need to do the calcs. We have all you state above, except car charger, our highest 30 mins demand over the last few days including driving immersion (3kW) and heat pump on, MVHR, well pump, treatment plant compressor etc at that point was just over 1.8kWh in 30 mins, so just under 16 amps from a 100 amp supply.

Something like this? There are several ways to setup how the circulation pump runs, yours looks to run based on compressor running. Your heat pump will have a temperature controller which regulates flow temp. The circulation pump looks to be going off with the compressor. The drops in flow rated other than on off is the circulation pump being modulated to maintain flow return differential temperature.

Start by reading building regs. That is always the starting point. Then read passivhaus house MVHR guidelines, they are different but relevant. You need to design based on building regs flow rates as a minimum. Room size is not really relevant it's usage is. Two ducting design method. Branch or semi flexible from a plenum. Semi flexible is way easier to install, no room cross talk to consider. Always look for the longest travel distance between flow in and out points. Depending on your layout coanda effect nozzle can be good. Get a unit that is running at about 50 to 60% of is design rating in normal use. Work out overall flow rates and room rates, the overall in flow will always equal out flow total. A simple guide to flows attached

That should be all you need. If you have trickle vents in wet rooms these need to be always closed. If the are open, the fan just sucks air via these trickle vents and then just blows it outside. Do you have an under cut at the bottom of the bedroom and wet room doors, so air can flow beneath? You only need 5 to 10mm. Then the flow path is in the trickle vents, across the room, under bedroom door, wet room door, across wet room and outside.

No problem

Don't you get E7 tariff on all circuits or just you DHW and storage heaters? My meter only has a single tail going to a single consumer unit. So all cheap rate, or all expensive rate depending on time of day

Go back to structural engineer to seek clarification of the deflection?

We are on E7 it's all done through the single smart meter, no second required, no dedicated circuits, so that could be what's happened also

I would Add isolation valves between mixer and manifold Correct the orientation of the pump and mixer. Form a primary loop between boiler flow and return. Use a close coupled tee to UFH pump mixer

Maybe a bit of a nightmare without lots of deconstruction. And if you don't design correctly may not solve the issues of the whole house What is your current ventilation strategy ? Trickle vents? Fans in wet rooms, intermittent or continuously on etc.?

Air vents are ok when the wind blows, but pretty useless on there own. What fans do you have, and how do they operate? Do windows have trickle vents? How was your roof insulated, what and where are these vents actually ventilating? Basics are You need to establish cross ventilation, so feed in to house from dry rooms and out via wet rooms. The ideal is this all happens automatically and only when needed.

Double post

Did notice a Passivhaus Architect in Forres when I was looking a few years ago. Passive slab, not sure anyone will come this far North, certainly when I was looking a few years ago. I ended up with strip foundations and stub walls and made that thermal bridge free.

Have an Ingersol Rand 1/2 drive impact driver and Ingersol Rand die grinder. Both are not used often, but when I do use the usage can be prolonged. With decent compressor I will also start spray painting. I upgraded my hose a few years ago to the biggest I could find at the time, but will probably replace with a decent hose reel.

But those are not a just a generic statement in a quote as below Hence raising the question or concern.

It seems to say 5cfm at 90psi.