JohnMo

But not a lot more difficult Most the major wind generation is offshore, so surrounded with water.

The Daikin controller has a setting for CO2 and I think the Panasonic one does also. MCS could easily come with a rule on that. Plus the immersion gets whatever the current profile of the grid is at that time, so can't really be optimised. Not even sure your neighbours install would comply with current MCS rules, they don't allow your heat pump to be smaller than the 99.6% use case. Easy, we pay wind farms to shut down production already. So the cost wouldn't be high. Instead of switching wind turbine power off, you provide a dump and generate hydrogen from the excess electric dumped.

So would just about every hydrid install. The boiler works be switched via the heat pump. Just about every heat pump has hybrid mode built in. Having an immersion heating your CH system, based on current 2024 CO2 grid emissions, is no better or worse than a gas boiler. In fact if you include the real output of Drax and other green wash, you are possibly better generating heat locally via the boiler. Hydrogen is coming anyway, there is so much wasted potential with wind, which could be utilised instead of turning the blades away from the wind, to keep bigger plant online, leave them powered and generate hydrogen.

Why would any sensible person bother. Seems a lot of cable to switch on your lights on. What do you do when the the equipment is obsolete, and breaks down in a few years time? At least a shelly can be pulled out of the system and revert to normal lights.

It's an unvented cylinder heated by an integrated heat pump. Avoid enameled cylinders as you have to manage can anode (the one you linked. Get one in stainless. Plenty about. Make your self aware of reheat times as these can be quite long.

Are you also making improvements in your airtightness. You will be introducing warmer air as you have heat recovery. How close the supply air temperature is to extract, depends more on how well the system is balanced, as much as anything. However if you have a leaky house all you are doing is adding to the ventilation loads, so be careful. PIV as you say dumps a lot of cold air into the house. If your house is leaky, I would Remove PIV system. Then either install dMEV or MEV system but ones that run in an on-demand basis. So they monitor humidity levels and ramp down to minimum throughput when not needed and ramp up only when needed. For these systems to be effective you need trickle vents in dry room, none in wet rooms. The trickle vents should be self modulating (react to humidity). A MEV system will have a central unit and extract points in wet rooms, dMEV system a fan in each wet room.

That would indicate you are getting up to 23.5 degs. Looks like you trim the the curve down little. I would change the 35 deg to 34 Deg on your WC curve.

We have a long thin house and from UVC to shower is about 15m. It's run to an intermediate manifold about 7.5m each way (UVC - manifold - shower) running the shower tonight with HWC pump off (for 12 hrs) it took just over the time to take my clothes off to be hot. 15mm pipe everywhere. Sorry you have had way too much time thinking. Simplify, one hot manifold, one cold, you only need one feed to each room then branch from there. Keep 22mm well away from hot water supplies other you will get bored waiting for hot water. We have HWC it goes to the furthest room and through the manifold back to the cylinder. Run it on timer and thermostat.

Not on your list, building control will want calibration certificate for the instrument you used to set flow rates. Should be N/A as it's for system 1 and 2 only. Are you certified to self certify? This is worrying bit, if you don't know the answer to this how was the system designed. Or even if it has been designed. Offices are just dry rooms. Supply and extract need to be equal. Boost is equal in capacity for supply and extract. Setting about 20% above normal flow rates is fine.

Does seem a lot of work, for something you will never look at again, until it leaks. And if it's not perfect will just annoy, until 1 month after and you realise you haven't looked at it.

So a log style building. Be aware of the contraction, you must not have battens etc joined across multiple logs without a sliding joint. Failure to that leads to the logs being split, and or big gaps forming. https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/topic/31017-summer-house-insulation/

That's exactly what I was about to say.

Main difference is stiffness, but that is so it doesn't slump after installation. Most acoustic insulation is in walls. The thermal insulation for lofts is really soft and would slump over time.

We once bought a house where the builder messed up and the garage was 1m longer than it should have been👍

Hard point that wouldn't wash off could be found if soil covered it I suppose. Accuracy is relative. Who cares if your a few millimetres off position, as long all relative measurements are true to each other. You can always throw a tape measure over to check, like I did.

A man came round, with a thing connected to satellites, marked it all out. He also said how how above datum we were. Same day trenches were dug. Once tranches filled, he came back and hammered pins into concrete at every corner of the building outline. Easy quick accurate.

In simple terms the heat exchanger is just like you car radiator, so tubes with thin aluminium plates. A fan sucks or blows air from the room over the heat exchanger. Water is supplied which above (heating) or below (cooling) room temp and it heats/cools the air and the room. A variable speed fan results in variable capacity for a fixed flow temp of water. For a given output way smaller than a normal radiator.

Download a copy of G1 and G4 regs and read them. All the info you need is there. And report back.

Do a Google search for Buildhub and comfopost. Plenty of discussion about them over the last 6 months or more.

Plan your rooms, where are you putting bed, dressing table, draws, the space left is four radiators. You can always use tall ones. If sized for a low temp ASHP (i.e. you have to have for the grant) you need big ones. Or use a smaller footprint fan coil. These can be wall mounted or ducted and come out the ceiling through grills.

Have a read of the manual, it shows various schemes. Go the link I left and scroll down

Fixed speed, little or no modulation. But ideal for batch charging the floor as the OP does. Would I bother connecting to DHW? You may be better setting to 35 to 40 degs.

It's not required, there is no outside unit. Nor is any planning permission.

So if you have 7 hrs of cheap electric, that's about 2kW per HR to charge the floor, plus an allowance for DHW heating. I would do it my self. A very basic heat pump set flow temp. Your floor is a buffer, charge as you do now, so keep it simple. This lives in the house so you need two holes in the wall. It's a fixed flow temp, super simple, which is all you really need. Don't bother with the grant. https://www.theheatpumpwarehouse.co.uk/shop/heat-pumps/trianco-activair-indoor-heatpump-3kw/

Then the other side of that, is a heat pump sized for the heat loss, doesn't work for the high heat demand periods - so as way of an example, its -3 outside, you have a 4kW heat loss, you have a 4 kW heat pump. The heat pump needs to run 24/7 to keep up. If you have an 8kW heat pump it needs to run 12 hrs. Or you accept for most the heating season you batch charge during cheap electric rates, and when cold you burn expensive electricity as well.