crispy_wafer

I've applied, purely as a punt to see what they can offer, and at what price. However no installers in my area until the summer as they are looking to take on subbies.

I'm trying to plan a media wall at the moment, unfortunately I'm about 9 months away from buying a tv to fit in it. There's some lovely crisp/clean looking ideas on google images, without the obligatory fire undeneath (not a fan tbh). Openings either side for shelves if you want, with some LED strip lights for a bit of mood lighting etc etc. Makes a nice feature I think.

Snap!

That's fine, dont worry about photos. Spark at work threw a suggestion to use same rating but lower class fuse. So it would blow quicker than the DNO's... It'll be good to know for sure, and when all said and done I'll post my findings and doings.

Just taking what my spark said, and nick seemed to reiterate again earlier. that if I want to have the CU > 3m away, my tails need protecting with a lower rated fuse. Like all of us, just trying to get my head around lots of things, trying to cut through the grey stuff to the yes and no's.

They wont upgrade the fuses for me, I did ask and then gave it the why not - stamp foot - bottom lip job but they were adamant. I bet there is loads of properties down my way with 100A fuses, just like my bungalow was before they moved the supply and nicked the fuse. Anyway, I appreciate your post and picture @Thorfun as that answers my question, in that I can have the 3ph installed to the head, and then continue to stay on 1ph in the house, until such time I can get a meter installed, then re evaluate. So, whilst thinking out loud on the internet. What's the next fuse size down to de rate the supply, and could I run the living space on it. Ring mains, lighting, Electric oven/hob, 9kW ASHP, 8kW A2A HP, Immersion.

£125 So, beans on toast for me, and the cat can raid the neighbours bins for a week 🤣

Any pitfalls in taking the option of having the 3 phase installed? Or is this a case of, if you have to ask then you don't need it...

Thanks. You guy's a more experienced in this than I, so I'm trying to piece it all together, maybe I got confused. so Normally it'd be DNO 80A----Meter---(<3m)----Consumer unit But I want DNO 80A---Meter---MySwitchFuse-(>3m)--Consumer unit. Can MySwitchFuse be the same rating as the DNO's then? I got the impression from a spark it needed to be less. Loads, Usual house stuff, Electric oven/hob, 9kW ASHP, 8kW A2A HP, Stables lighting and power, Garage Lighting and power, planning Car charger or 2.

I looked in the meter box and the cover says 80A on it, they then visited me to confirm.

Back story, Old bungalow had electric supply with 100A fuse in meter cupboard, I requested supply to be moved to the new build, meter box installed at a point that would allow easy access in future. I noted that I could install a switched fuse thingy and run my tails to the other side of the build for my CU approx 15m in total. So I was planning on an 80A switch to the plant room and CU. Last Week I've since discovered when WPD moved the supply they installed 80A fuses on the 3ph board thingy (only using single phase at the mo), Surely I don't really want to be stepping down from 80A just to get the tails to where I'd planned the CU... I've spoken to National grid/WPD to see if they'd upgrade the 80A fuse to 100A for me, they came out to have a look but cant. They can however do a few tweaks and unlock the 3ph for me for a few ££'s So, I think I'm deep in the do do here, and not sure what I can do. Less than 3m from the meter box leaves the consumer unit in the Kitchen, or a downstairs bedroom, and at 1.4m off the floor will look cack. I am a bit stuck for idea's, so is there way I can get the tails to the CU safely, and within regs. Or am I stuck trying to hide a CU in a bedroom or kitchen. Probably even worse if we have a 3ph unit put in, the ones at work are like cupboards!

Reckon you've probably got enough manual work to do, get a volumetric mixer in and have a cuppa whilst they mix and pour, then just pay for what you use.

As my receeding hairline has found out, unless designing something in from the start, with the person who is doing your drawings, then the odd compromise, or change from the normal lines of thinking is absolutely needed to make your dreams a reality.

Here she is in all her glory... Still in progress, so a bit of connecting and tidying up to do, but if it gives others a bit of inspiration like photos on this site have for me then all good.

hole saw. try to remember where the ducting drops so you don't fix skirting there. I was going to do similar, but I built in a cupboard and framed a section of it off for dropping ducting between floors and other stuff.

Hi, A couple of simple questions, When using fittings like 90 degree elbows, or couplings is it worthwhile using a blob or two of sealant as well as the rubber sealing rings? Also, would it be good practice to put a wrap of duct tape around the joints? And finally is it worth firing the unit up after connecting all the ductwork up just to do a ducting leak check? thx.

Ducted units a possibility with vents into rooms from above, because the fan coil units are suspended from rafters, the condensate pipes will run downwards to a good drain location

hats off to you, good going sir. Just had a look at the 9kW one myself as that size fits my needs, I'm a bit green, but handy and confident, the install instructions are in bloomin italian though... Scratch that, found the veissman installation manual

We use A2A at work, in the offices and lobbies etc, I blast them up to temperature pretty early then turn the fans right down on them, so no audible noise or noticeable draughts, so that, the high temperatures last summer and the fact that we'll get some heat from them is just a bonus, the bedrooms dont need to be above 18, anything more than that I struggle to sleep. I have noticed that the warm air doesn't get through doorways particularly well, so our unheated hallway is also a thought. However because we are having ducted and the unit has 3 in/3 extract, we have 2 in/2 extract to the bedroom, so maybe I could use the redundant one in the hallway, but it would only work of course when the bedroom is in use, better than nothing though

Yes, ducted just means the warm/cool air is delivered to the room via pipework and is sent into the room by grills or circular diffusers in the ceiling (normally), rather than physical units sat on the floor, high up, or ceiling mounted. The bits that do the work are suspended in the loft. Can be a multisplit, or non multisplit depending on how you want the system. In my case I have a multisplit going in Costing about 5,500 all in, which I think is in the right sort of ballpark, not cheap, but I'm doing this once and if it means the build takes a couple of months longer then so be it.

Another here who's having A2A installed upstairs (bedrooms) in our build. Whilst we have no plasterboard in situ and good access to loft and spaces, 2 ducted systems, and a wall mounted unit going in. Still thinking on what to do downstairs though, both for my pocket (Install, and monthly running costs), ease of use, least amount of faff, etc etc.

get a length of small bore hose from an automotive shop, attach to end of gun, it might want to curl/coil up so would using a bamboo cane as a splint might help... Just a thought.

Feed the cable through the duct before laying would be my choice. Just makes life easier all round, one less thing to do another time. Cant comment on the size of the cable unfortunately.

Slaps head because it just completely passed me by. Piddle poor design, but done now, how to make the best of it. 3 trusses side by side bolted together in various places as per. Best way to deal with stopping draughts on these. I'm thinking about taping the bottom and squeezing expanding wood glue into the cracks to try then tape over the top. Any other thoughts?

Good thinking. That'll work.