crispy_wafer

Guilty, more than once! 🤣

If you need any additional noggins in place for the brackets get it in before the pipework is glued.

Please, whichever vendor you use do your due diligence on them, and use a credit card to purchase for S75 protection. Don't necessarily go to the lowest price.

Guess I'm just trying too hard keep to everything neat, logical, and easy to access should I need to. Combo of B and C I think. Cored out the bathroom stud walls for the pipework last night so should be about ready to start feeding pipework from end to end.

Is there a convention or best practice amongst plumbers as to positioning of pipework in the ceiling void? I'm looking at installing a number of 10mm and 15mm HEP runs along and through pozi joists, the joists are 300mm deep and am wondering where would be best to align the pipework and clips. These are my thoughts below, is there a better... I think towards the top or side (A,B,C) would be better as this still allows me access to the space underneath should I need it, in reality my run only really affects a pair or 2 or joists, D allows me to fly under a UB without thinking!

I recall nick mentioning something at some point about noise issues when water drops vertically from height, so may need some sound insulation. Or you could drop vertically to the floor above then use a couple of 45's to bring it into the horizontal'ish run.

Sketch and plan looks ok to me. I'm not sure you could make it any more efficient. I try to think of a main spine for the heavy volumes of water, then branches for the smaller volumes, but then I don't make a living from this so take with a pinch of salt!

my efforts for the day! overdone the clips as it ended up a bit cut and shut in places. But once the ceilings up I'm not going to see it.

You can use one of these in the 50mm swept T if you wanted FloPlast Solvent Weld Reducing Coupler 55mm x 43mm White - Screwfix Edit: I've been faffing with solvent weld this weekend and am using a couple of the above for the bath waste and basin

Here it comes... No digger required, just ally ramps and slide it off!

if you dont use a chainsaw then hire a log splitter would be the best option depending on size of pile!, cutting 40cm down to 20cm would be a faff on a saw horse, not an awful amount of meat to secure to, and weight/balance issue maybe when trying to pivot the blade through the log... Me: i'd do it on the floor with a chainsaw, cut 3/4 the way through then roll it forwards or back and nip through the rest, not the safest way - but works for me.

@richo106 I had a quick play at this last night, depending on what gaps if any you have at the floor to wall junction, airtight paint may not be suitable on its own. I used some Soudatight paint with their fibre based membrane as I managed to buy 6 rolls of it from Ebay last year, I lapped onto the floor and up the wall and covered with a liberal dollop of paint. I can imagine airtight tape working just as well, depends on what materials you have to hand.

👍 A 2 port valve to allow flow to the ufh like the schematic or somewhere else not shown on the schematic?

bought one, looked at it and thought feck that, altered the design slightly to escape from having to mess about with it. Bifold door can work in some circumstances, they aren't for everyone though so may or may not work.

Parge as close to the floor junction as possible, squirty foam to fill any gaps around the screed edge to wall. then seal up the junction, I'm using paint rather than tape. Internal walls I'd not bother parging, but the floor to wall junction would need dealing with as air leakage could still happen there. It's a job I need to do too! Ballache of a job in this heat too!

It's from the Grant guide, it's the one that closely resembles the plumbing on my cylinder with a 3 port diverter valve and buffer, I'm not competent enough to draw out my own diagram from scratch, however from what I've seen most are similar in that they work on either the premise of a 3 port valve, or a couple of two port valves with logic to decide hot water or heating. The flow setter, from what I understand is there to ensure an acceptable temperature differential between flow and return. So yes you could adjust the in in built pump via the dip switches and the addition of the flow setter may be to give a more finer control?

Ebay, and patience (which is difficult for me), I don't need to install it 'next week' so am picking up bits as and when they pop up. The caleffi valves I paid 80 ea for. I need to get a zone wiring center. Heatmiser uh4/8 i think. I've got the grant buffer/llh to sell on, and the grant mag filter as the cylinder I purchased has a 50l buffer underneath and a mag filter attached... There's the cylinder. and that's the drg I'm working to, but now without any rad circuit, and probably not a secondary pumpset - we'll see!

Had my smart meter installed by EDF before switching to the octopus! Unfortunately they haven't been able to read from it yet, but EDF could!

Self builders, we cant afford to so blasé. Mistakes cost money.

Its the 8PE pumped version, watercourse is about 50 paces away. I'll be looking to concrete as clay sublayer @ about 1m causes slow drainage, invert is approx 650mm. The installation guides don't seem quite clear on whether I could pour mass concrete over the top or not to create a tomb like structure. I may want to drive over its location occasionally with my small tractor... Thinking I'll mix the concrete for it to sit on, then have either a readymix or volumetric delivery to fill the rest of the hole. Best laid plans and all that,

I think you are right. But 5/6t will only allow me to dig from one side of the hole, too high, and wide to fit through the gate and past the stables. whereas a 3t I can manoeuvre to get access from the other side too. Will be going under the area where the greenhouses are in this pic, using access near the stables. Digging primarily will be done from about where my dumper is parked.

Update: changed my mind on the tank, getting the Solido, the fact that it runs periodically and uses less energy resulting in longer term savings won the day... Travis Perkins beat the online suppliers and threw in delivery and offload as part of it. Happy with that as I've back and forth on this for about a year...

So, not much has happened with my install bar thinking about installation schematics and the possibility of how best to incorporate a 3 rad circuit for the bathrooms without compromising too much efficiency? I was always set on having dual fuel towel rads anyway, so that option is available in the months where it's too warm for central heating, but we are still in goose bump territory. So, I'm thinking I should at least put the pipework in place should it be needed in future so the Rads can be installed on a point 2 point basis from a manifold and convert from 16mm to 15mm at the radiator. Control wise, I think running the ASHP for this would be wildly inefficient, so could I put a zone valve in place on this circuit and open this when the UFH stat downstairs calls for heat?

Not that you need it, but Good luck anyway, I'm sure you'll smash it!

@Dave Jones True, but shit happens, and this is resolvable, we are human and self builders at that! We often have other day jobs, and not everything we tackle is done with loads of knowledge, history and hindsight. Layouts change, and even the best laid initial plans over time become obsolete, and as the structure goes up we start thinking 'what if' or someone says ' it would be nice if'. 👍, hell, I've pretty much redone all my external soil and grey water runs because what looked acceptable on paper, looked cack in real life. Anyway, i'd go with what Conor says, recessed and filled with your topping of choice. Over time it will become less noticeable. Get or paint a green lid, or grass topped one - C-11 GrassTop Recessed Manhole Cover, 450 dia - Grass Top Covers