crispy_wafer

That's the way I've seen in pictures. Just a stub poking out with a bit of masking tape over the end to stop the muck getting in.

It’s bsp the end I’m looking at, 28mm compression at the other end

sweet, now to play the game of hunt the washer! 🤣

I've got a pair of these, they didn't come with washers, but should I use a rubber washer or not?

Look's good, You putting shadow gap in every room? The MD at my work has just had a place built, no self building there, has shadow gap along the floor, so no skirting, but coloured LED strips lighting the way. His daughter who will inherit has got it all connected up with sensors, showed me a video, looks good.

Not a bad deal, I'm trying not to spend money though other than materials at the moment 🤣, but there are a few tools I need for simple one off jobs. Yesterday I had to rip down some 4*2 taking a 45 degree cut so I could create a wedge to go in between 2 studs like video below, needed a table saw really, managed it with a jig and a skillsaw and plenty of work with the planer. Otherwise I'm not sure ive got a need for a tablesaw.

let us know how you get on.

Good choice sir! On my shopping list too!

Crushed concrete buildup is very deep on that side, all whacked down so didn't bother with anything else under it. Knocked up some shuttering from 6*2, bits of it in the background of that pic, screwed where I could still get to them to undo once the concrete started going off. Sits about 50mm from the wall, with a slight fall to the front. Approx 2 bags of cement used and a 3-4 barrows of ballast. As @Bonner says check the minimum clearances, I got too excited about playing with the mixer and forgot 🤫! But 300mm is needed for mine, which puts it just over the centre line of that slab so It'll be fine.

got to say, I like this - well done.

here's mine, poured yesterday so still green, polythene covered it when it rained so a little rippled in places but itll do. I've got rubber mounting feet for the ashp aswell. Gully in the middle for any condensate to run into, needs an extension/riser piece to make it flush when I get round to picking one up.

our driveway is 12-13ft, delivery drivers reversed in and drove out. as long as there is room to swing the front round as they line up to reverse then jobs a goodun. Our lane is single track too( really old pic for refence) The only two I had issues with was insulation as that came on a curtainsider but they had a nifty little forklift gadget, and insulation from seconds and co, as that too came on a curtainsider, and handballed off. Hope that helps.

Yep, that works, my fingers though are testament to the metal strapping I've got's previous life as prison razor wire!

Colour coded clips and everything! 🤣 Quite pleased with my weekends work.

Guilty, more than once! 🤣

If you need any additional noggins in place for the brackets get it in before the pipework is glued.

Please, whichever vendor you use do your due diligence on them, and use a credit card to purchase for S75 protection. Don't necessarily go to the lowest price.

Guess I'm just trying too hard keep to everything neat, logical, and easy to access should I need to. Combo of B and C I think. Cored out the bathroom stud walls for the pipework last night so should be about ready to start feeding pipework from end to end.

Is there a convention or best practice amongst plumbers as to positioning of pipework in the ceiling void? I'm looking at installing a number of 10mm and 15mm HEP runs along and through pozi joists, the joists are 300mm deep and am wondering where would be best to align the pipework and clips. These are my thoughts below, is there a better... I think towards the top or side (A,B,C) would be better as this still allows me access to the space underneath should I need it, in reality my run only really affects a pair or 2 or joists, D allows me to fly under a UB without thinking!

I recall nick mentioning something at some point about noise issues when water drops vertically from height, so may need some sound insulation. Or you could drop vertically to the floor above then use a couple of 45's to bring it into the horizontal'ish run.

Sketch and plan looks ok to me. I'm not sure you could make it any more efficient. I try to think of a main spine for the heavy volumes of water, then branches for the smaller volumes, but then I don't make a living from this so take with a pinch of salt!

my efforts for the day! overdone the clips as it ended up a bit cut and shut in places. But once the ceilings up I'm not going to see it.

You can use one of these in the 50mm swept T if you wanted FloPlast Solvent Weld Reducing Coupler 55mm x 43mm White - Screwfix Edit: I've been faffing with solvent weld this weekend and am using a couple of the above for the bath waste and basin

Here it comes... No digger required, just ally ramps and slide it off!

if you dont use a chainsaw then hire a log splitter would be the best option depending on size of pile!, cutting 40cm down to 20cm would be a faff on a saw horse, not an awful amount of meat to secure to, and weight/balance issue maybe when trying to pivot the blade through the log... Me: i'd do it on the floor with a chainsaw, cut 3/4 the way through then roll it forwards or back and nip through the rest, not the safest way - but works for me.