crispy_wafer

Consider a typical new build dormer, room in roof arrangement, insulation under the trusses. What's the best/easiest way to batten out for, and what's easier to fix to for when I plasterboard? For any services I've already created a couple of channels in the insulation. Tis my job for the weekend possibly, maybe... So to save any more procrastination and time wasted Trusses vary between 600 and 400 centres. Should I batten along the trusses, or perpendicular to the trusses? I'm not planning on installing any lights in the slopes. And is 100*25 ok to use as battening (I've got a pile on site)? Planning on 12.5 mm plasterboard, so if I go across, then 400 centres? and edge support where it meets the wall, or opening?

How far down the planning route are you? If you havent submitted yet, then in all honesty get the land cleared as @joe90 says, you aren't doing anything other than cutting the grass and tidying up! if you make a noise and upset the Wildlife and it goes on a temporary holiday, it'll come back, don't worry about that! What you don't want is wildlife getting in your way, costing you money and delaying you and your journey! That money will be better spent later on, on the things you want rather than paying for some buggers pcp payment on their new land rover. It's all good doing the right things, but in all honesty when you are building every sod and their pal wants their palms crossing with silver just for ticking a box. There's definitely a reason @ToughButterCup 's farmers act like they do.

if anything like my laurel (cherry) then the buggers are difficult to kill, and grow at a rapid rate... I take the tops of to the height I want - get through any thicker branches. New thinner branches will be easier next year, then it's a quick twice a year trim. I need a scaff tower to trim them now. Must be about 12-14ft i think. The neighbourhood bird population love them for nesting in! excuse the rubbish but there's some of mine looking out of my kitchen window trimmed about 6 weeks ago!

got 2 laser levels, a dewalt red, and a green huepar jobby, they are good I admit, but hurt my eyes a bit. I normally set the laser about 50 mm parallel with the wall and then run my tape off the studs to check. I popped down to toolstation and grabbed a stabila 1.8m, the lines are tighter to the bubble than the cheapie minotaur one I have which give me a bit more visual feedback and confidence in what I'm seeing. Don't know why, but I've been panicking about my stud walls and door openings and whether they were alright and good for accepting door linings and boards, all in all they were ok, give or take a few mm on the worst offender, I checked them when I built them, but my experience with timber is that unless it's anchored and braced it'll twist,bow and make what looked reasonably decent, look cack overnight.

Yes, that’s true but I need as much help as I can get! Less than perfect light upstairs in the evening.

Approx 1.8 - 2m long. with a nice tight bubble. I have a long cheap red one from toolstation, but the tolerance in the bubble (in that the gap between the lines and bubble) is quite large, I could do with something a little better so I can double check my studs and openings for plumb.

When I was planning my cassette stove an installer quoted Kemwell board to surround the stove. I haven't done any further research on it so I don't know what can or cant be done with it, but may be a starter for 10...

@richo106 not sure of your location, but if you are anywhere near Lincoln, I've got one of these and a couple of rubber seals I could donate. (Over ordered as per) Connector for 75mm Blaufast MVHR Semi Rigid Radial Ducting System for Heat Recovery Ventilation (blauberg.co.uk)

Yep, all in hand.

Nope, electric only. I'm with Octopus, so for now the plan will be for any generation will feed back until such time that I commission the MVHR, Poo tank and other always on kit.

your replies are very much appreciated, thankyou.

Hi, Had 3.6kW solar installed when the roof went onto the build about 2 years ago, solar has been inactive since as no electrics in the property to connect to. Original plan was to have an EDDI or similar... Recent contact with the company who installed the panels and will complete the install have suggested that since the original contract prices have increased and they want some more money. No problem, that's fair I suppose. It's going to be a little while before HW cylinder is in place, and I'm thinking that once first fix electrics are in, get them in, the can connect up the solar and it can start exporting as it will have no load on it for a little while, and I can forget the Eddi for now. This helps with my short term cashflow and it brings my contract price down and gets them in/out and that's the end of my contract with them. *extra bonus* Is an EDDI(or similar, please advise) installation a task a qualified electrician can undertake? I'd hazard a guess, me buying the device and him installing at a later date is going to be cheaper than this company.

Honestly, for this, my recommendation would be separating the CCTV from the LAN by using an NVR, which most will have built in POE. The NVR will create it's own subnet for the cameras. Dahua or Hikvision are decent manufacturers, you can do yourself but most of the good stuff is sold to installers only - which is a bit of a safety net to stop DIYers who don't necessarily understand the in's, out's and gotcha's. I'd honestly engage a local pro in this regard, you can run the cables and they'll advise, purchase and install for you. It would be money well spent if you are seriously thinking about CCTV.

Also, if you wanted to go non poe switch... then you can use a power injector --> Ubiquiti U-POE-AF Gigabit Power Over Ethernet PoE Injector (802.3af/48V) (broadbandbuyer.com) depending on how many powered ports you need it may be cheaper to do this, although it does add a small lump of plastic and plug somewhere.

Have a play with this, map out your floorplan and place the AP's to work out best location for coverage. UniFi Design Center (ui.com) I use Aruba POE switches with Ubiquiti AP's at work, so I'd say yes, but that buying decision is mine and its company money, buying privately and advising over the internet, I'd advise to double check the POE requirements for the AP against the switch you are going to purchase.

been discussed a few times in the past on here, I think the consensus was wf100 ? I don't know if one brand is better than another though

I'm a tight arse, and wont be paying money into sky or the others... Amazon and the good old TV license are my limits these days

Failover, + stuff like AV Amps, Games consoles, Amazon boxes, raspberry pi's... neater than using switches, but these can be a solution. I like wifi, but prefer cables...

Just going through this at the same time. I deal with a mix of HPE/Aruba and ubiquiti latelly at work, can confirm the Ubiquiti kit is pretty decent for the money spent. So, yeah will be using this myself. The inwall AP's would be the ones to get if you want less obtrusive, and you get a 4port switch built in if you can put these in a useable location. Use POE switches as the AP's will draw power from these, at work I have the controller installed on a server, but there are other ways I believe to do this. My preference but I'm using CAT6 instead of CAT6A, as it's a bit cheaper, buying branded partially used boxes from Ebay, try to get the non CCA stuff. Most runs are less than 10m with a couple of 15m. 48 port patch, and I'll start with a 24 port POE switch. A UPS and a 12u cabinet should do the trick. Don't forget to specify power outlets or a fused spur or 2 where the Cab will be located. I'm going what seems mad with CAT6, 4 in the lounge behind the TV (pretty much a fixed location due to a glazed wall on one side, and log burner on another wall), 2 in the plant room, two in the kitchen near the consumer unit, 2 in hallway, 4 in downstairs bedroom, 2 in diff corners. Upstairs 4 in each bedroom (different corners again), two in the loft just in case... + a couple located for Wireless AP's Will be starting the runs for the CCTV cam's at some point. But very similar, I'll throw a couple to each corner. And as the Mrs is leaving me to it, I'm Wiring for ceiling speakers in every room too, Lounge will from the AV amp, 2nd zone off this will feed kitchen diner and 2nd zone hdmi will feed tv in this area too if needed. Bedrooms, bathrooms, hallway and utility are all wired back to the same place as the network cab where I'm thinking of a bunch of small class d amps for sound. Control will be phones, or wall mounted tablets. Looking for some that have decent app support so individual sound and group sound can be achieved. I don't really want to get sucked into an expensive ecosystem if I can help it! I'm more worried about TV tbh, the old internet isn't too good here, we do manage with IPTV on a few devices. But would like to provision for either Sat or Aerial, I just cant decide...

315 is decent I think, I seen 159 for for Grohe frame, cistern and plate on manomano, so about 160 for the pan looks good for british pricing. driving me bonkers looking at sanitary ware. The Mrs isnt particularly bothered so I'm left constructing and looking at fixtures and fittings which makes for hard work as I cant really decide. I really want to get one pan on site so I can dry fit to set soil position, plus it makes me feel like I'm making a bit of progress and getting somewhere. I'm looking at floor mounted back to wall, rimless or not rimless, antibac coating or not, soft close seat or not. choices are seemingly endless. Think I've just about decided on white... and I want a smooth roundish surface with no indentations in the body. V&B, Grohe, Geberit, RAK, Ideal, R2. I'm clueless and confused 😕

Just dry fitting some pipework from my plant room to the ufh manifold under the stairs. The pipework rises from the 3 port on the cylinder and follows a route through the ceiling joists where it finally drops to the manifold. Most design docs call for air valves at the highest point so I will install one at the point above the ceiling after my 3 port valve before the pipe turns to go to the UFH manifold. I've read that the auto valves sometimes leak when they get filled with crud, or when they get old, so with this in mind I think I'd rather install a manual one. I'll also be installing an access hatch too into the ceiling space above the plant room for future access... Unless there is a better way? Pipework to the manifold will be 22mm can anyone recommend a half decent valve and do I need one on the feed and return, or is it just the feed.

For now, unlimited data sim is probably the best shout!

I don't know to be honest, if it was pretty rough to start with, could more have been done do you think or not? Will that bit of wall be concealed away behind cupboard / wash machine for new stuff, although 3mm still 9.1.3 Internal walls and ceilings - NHBC Standards 2023 NHBC Standards 2023 (nhbc-standards.co.uk)

I've seen a few snippet's from your project pictures, looks ideal habitat for wildcats, do you ever catch a glimpse?

Reckon I've got it! Again more by luck than judgement, but I did change the order of the bends pulled, pulled the bend by the wall first. It's all loose fittings at the minute as I'm trying to do all the prep work ready to be fixed and pressed once that cupboard is skimmed, painted and floor down and cylinder in.