crispy_wafer

The opposite and downside to purchasing, I hire and have to save up my jobs and try to tackle them in one hit. over the last year and a bit, I get a machine in probably once a quarter for a week, take time off work and then blast through (Drainage, Trenching, clearing out the drains...). Often at the mercy of weather and having to have materials on site. If I had one full time, I'd be able to tackle the odd job over a summers evening or a Sunday saving me time. Saving grace, a dropped track or a burst hose is their responsibility and I get a day back as a sorry for next hire time. And I can choose the right excavator for the task, I've had micro's up to 5t sized machines now. I'd love one tbh, but just cannot justify having the cash tied up. I do have an old kubota mini tractor and a 2t dumper though.

Currently doing the same, manomano keep coming up, but generally the products are shipped from abroad so depends on your appetite for risk(damage, and dealing with) - I've puchased things like mounting frames from them, James hargreaves clearance..., heatandplumb . com, ebay, welove . co.uk, even wickes have vitra or villeroy boch in stock.

Just going through this right now... Without ringing the builders merchant the best price I've found online so far on 60mm rwa45 is 30.73 per pack delivered. But this is what we SB'ers do... trying to do the best we can without prior experiences to call upon. and are afraid of the sucking through teeth trades when they come on site, and the 'you dont want to do it like that, you should have done it like this'... Was the 70mm stuff, acoustic roll stuff? As that's quite a bit cheaper for coverage than slabs

Managed to collar a plumber who popped into work today, he say 1200mm, so I'll run with that. If the BI thinks differently then I'll adjust down as necessary I've got a of bit extra on the HEP.

Perfect!

Morning All, Is there a standard -ish height or rule of thumb for heights... for things like Shower controls over a shower tray height for pipes where they exits the wall under a basin, and likewise a bathtub Thanks Marek

@Thorfun Morning pal, I've had a sleepless night trying to figure a solution to this conundrum! I came up with the conclusion that there is a solution but they all require more joints 😕! This is from a discussion on one of @MortarThePoint posts where the question was asked what the best way to bring hep out of the wall. May help. It may be easier to use a shower fitting even for a basin etc: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/322273391778 And a couple of hep2o adapters: https://www.screwfix.com/p/hep2o-plastic-push-fit-adapting-male-coupler-15mm-x-1-2-/5970f As that gives you more meat to screw to the wall. At the expense of more joints.

I've got a couple of these as they seemed to fit what I wanted to do. Still in the box as I've got bigger battles to fight at the moment. Pro Series Ceiling Speakers - Lithe Audio LTD

I'll post up my own plea for help in the lighting section, but I am getting to the point where I need someone to just design out the interior for me and say there go 'make it like that' at the moment all I can see is blockwork and timber and cant get see the finished version.

me too! You've got me going off on a tangent thinking about plumbing 🤣, when I need to be trying to design a lighting plan for my kitchen and dining open plan room.

@Thorfun have you bulk purchased any plumbing fittings (is it worth it for a one off domestic with 2/3 bathrooms, kitchen and utility?) vs just utilising Screwfix/Toolstation Wickes B&Q etc as and when.

Pretty sure they used to do a brass version, as I was looking the other week. I'm not sure I have too much confidence in anything that has plastic threads. As much as we don't want too many hidden connections I think I'll do the same and convert to copper.

What connectors did you use to connect the hep to the ibox?

Those attenuators are 600's, used 90's as that's what I could get at the time of install, if I could get a nice sweeping bends then I'd probably spend a morning and reconfigure it tbh, it's not commissioned yet so cant really answer if those have caused too much pressure drop at the normal running setting.

This might be of use. I used plastic pipe for what it's worth. Plenums mounted to either side of the attic out the way! Strap banding used to hold/support the attenuators, last photo you'll have to look past the AC unit!

Great stuff! Thankyou both!

You've got a chance to spend my money for me. Need about 50m2 of sound insulation for my stud walls. Thoroughly confuddled, I don't want to end up chasing marginal gains at the expensive end of the market, but likewise It would be nice to see benefit from the effort involved with cutting and fitting. Typical wall build-up 95mm timber stud, faced on 1 side with 18mm ply + 12.5mm plasterboard on and 12.5mm plasterboard t'other side and 90mm metal frame with 18mm Ply + PB on one side and PB The ply is there because it was kindly donated... So making use of it for it's fixing properties rather than having to think about future placement of tv's and fitting extra noggins.

Not sure about plasterboard, I guess it depends a lot on the stove and distances and how much heat it will need to absorb, failing that then render/plaster it. If you can I'd call your BC and ask what he'd expect to see, mines pretty good at answering my sometimes daft questions. VITCAS do some high temp stuff but might be belt and braces. HWAM have some nice tall'ish stoves I reckon might give a nice balance of modern and traditional... A bit of stovepipe, a flexi, coupling, register plate, and chimney hat... Is what I think an installer will probably want to use I think. Even on mine where we've got clay (or something or other) liners installed.

Might not be the BM's goto brand but Floplast have 110mm solvent, I'm sure OSMA aswell 110mm Solvent Soil | Floplast

Looks alright does that!, A decent stovefitter will know what to do with regards a liner if you want a stove. You can core in an air feed for direct connection to the stove. Just requires a bit of careful selection on stove with regards room sealing, primary/secondary feeds. What you thinking of, inset, or floor standing? Putting an inset into mine just for the cleaner lines, more than anything, but that's a personal preference.

I'll be the outlier... I bought a 2nd hand Festool saw, 3 batteries etc, had it for 18 months, then sold it for 50 quid less than what I paid. For me it was worth it.

Soudal repair express maybe?

Dont forget to mark on the new boards where the timbers are hidden! Don't ask me how I know why this is a good idea... 🤣

I've deployed a load of pi3 at work running my PHP/mysql data input system on chromium to feed our ERP and production planning system. I think this PI 5 might just be overkill! Good to see the price is still attainable and hopefully they have a good production run so plenty of stock available.

I've seen it defined under and over - maybe a regional thing, so had the vision of what you were doing, it's confusing, thankfully @Gus Potter has an eye for detail and asked the question. I'm a bad dobbie and must ask more questions before giving answers! You'll probably do this anyway (sorry), but don't forget foam if needed and foil tape for the joints...