crispy_wafer

Beams are typically placed on blocks over here and spaced out to suit the loading above and length/width of block infill. Cutting a channel into foundation blocks for the steel? Got to ask why? Is this structural engineer designed?

Yes, same thoughts as being a potential customer. I was looking into reducing the overall volume that a HW cylinder would take up in my plant cupboard, Sunamp would be ideal, however not so much if it ends up as landfill and costing me £'s in disposal and cleanup is relatively short time.

Haha no, it’s all good 👍

What I did, now curious to see @nod response what I did do, was make any joints so they all didn’t appear in a line so on one row of mf7 the join would be near one wall, and the next row, the mf7 join would be near t’ other wall

if it's two sets of identical staircases, I'd be tempted to give stairbox/tk or one of the others a call, might just get a discount on account of only a single setup of the cnc machines. Nice project to go at if you've got the skills and tools, but one wrong cut could consign material to the use that for something else pile!

I've used efans, and ventilationland aswell as bpc and blauberg.

Any use?

I suppose if you make sure your plasterboards are cut above the floor, so no danger of sucking up moisture then as you say, protect and crack on.

So making a bit of progress. Busy working with the design guy at the fabricators. Here's a drawing that I've coloured in. Not spectacular, but I think will be a nice feature when complete. Got the balustrade to think about. I'm thinking steelwork, 3 flat plate, or bar per step with an timber capping. Not a big fan of glass, too much to clean.

Something I'm looking at too, so far I've landed at about £1100 for a single custom sized door. Vufold I think it was, no idea if they are good/bad/in the middle. That's as far as I have got, so will delve deeper and find others when the time comes.

SE - Structural Engineer Topo - Topographical survey

If you are fixing into blocks you won’t need hammer on the drill, I’d be tempted to just try an hss bit somewhere, or just get an sds bit and stick that in the Chuck of your normal drill, an sds machine might just be a bit brutal.

can recommend the the blue bosch expert drill bits, brilliant! saves having to climb up and down ladders to fetch or carry 2 drills, especially when metal and masonry is involved.

A google search for internal steel doors reveals some good results, good pictures too, which give me an idea of what I might be looking for.

👍 for the plan of attack, 🤣 for having to spend time with the family

Seasons greetings. Might be one for the OMG why’s he done that thread… Anyway, the house is coming together very slowly and I’m now starting to really think about doors and stuff. Downstairs is pretty open, no private rooms as such apart the w/c which will have a conventional wooden door liner and door, all other rooms, it’s open season and glazed doors will be the plan. My opening depths range from a couple at 150mm to 300mm through a cavity wall. I don’t mind wooden door linings, it’s just I’d like to consider alternatives. Rather than hit up the tried and tested timber door linings, I fancy something different. Is there a narrow door frame system that would say fix into the opening, allowing me to plasterboard through the openings? I got this idea when I was sat looking at the my external aluminium external door, the frame isn’t very deep, and this look appealed to me. Is there such a door product for inside?

my first hangers were about 300mm ish, as I screwed to joists which were already spaced, then hangers every 600-800mm, mf7 was again about 600-800mm. Odd spacing every now and then to cater for lighting. Top hat was then at 400 centres. Sometimes had to adjust or double up again so lights/mvhr/ac/speakers didnt clash. A handful of my boards I’ve trimmed down to fit the top hat spacing too. So 300, and about 600 from the wall.

For diy use, I wouldn’t have thought so. as long as you keep away/be extra careful round 3rd parties and buildings where insurance may not pay out if they find out you don’t have a ticket. I guess with telehandlers just be careful of ground conditions, weight carried and heights you need to reach. ( pallet of bricks to 1st floor etc). Take care.

And progress on one side

Just popping in to say, a neighbour down the road from me refurbed his bungalow last year, roof off, external block and render away, bricked the outer leaf and did an internal refit too and a smallish extension. Took him 4 - 6 months, but is a builder by trade, so has the benefits of can do, or knows men who can.

We’ve got faith in you big man!

Nah not really, get all the bits lined up expecting worst case before you start. Send the wife out to a spa for the day then crack on. You’ll be done and dusted before it’s time for bacon butties.

aah, i was under the impression that the boss was welded, which failed then covered with gunk to fix. Ok my mistake, cool.

normally takes me two, always chalk the first go to my apprenticeship before giving myself a bollocking, and doing it so at least it looks right...

I know you've got your fancy ceiling and you can get access to that joint whenever, but, surely that bit of waste and soil pipe will nag away at you until it's right? The only issue I forsee in fixing that is chamfering the 4" pipe all round if you wanted to use push connectors instead of solweld on the 4" pipe, unless you have one of those chamfering gadgets of course.