Gone West

@SteamyTea That's interesting, not something I had ever thought about. Are you able to explain how they seem to work differently from domestic heat pumps. It mentions input temperatures of 6C and output temperatures of 90C, with CoPs of three to four. The only differences between those heat pumps and domestic heat pumps seems to be the size and refrigerant used, CO2 or ammonia, so is that the reason? If so why can't domestic heat pumps use ammonia?

Is it worth stick building with dung boards. https://www.moleonline.com/dung-walling-200mm-x-47mm-1055312

We had Rehau Geneo triple glazed tilt and turn windows which we also used as french doors in our last place. We used a single full height window as the door onto the balcony as well.

In my picture you can just make out the white spring clips between the taps on the manifolds. They are the same ones as are shown holding the ball valves.

@ProDave Thanks for the heads up. I've just bought four to replace mine, one of which the face plate had warped and one switch wasn't usable.

It means both poles are switched so is potentially safer. I'm sure MK must make SP versions. We need @ProDave to explain in more detail.

Not comparing like with like as one is single pole and the other is double pole.

A friend of ours used chains for roof drainage on their new build. I wasn't a success when it was windy as the water went everywhere. It only worked well in light rain and no wind.

IIRC they are Reliance valves but it was several years ago so may be wrong.

I used the 'O' ring with silicone grease and the locking nut. Didn't have a problem.

Sorry I was looking at the first BPC description where you have "Upper floor extracts: 2x bathroom, 1x in each bedroom" which was changed to supply in bedrooms in the second BPC description.

I don't see how. I have looked at the details on your other thread and both of the BPC configurations look odd to me. I've not seen extracts from bedrooms recommended before. The Paul design looks more conventional. The basic factors are to extract from 'damp' rooms and supply living areas, with the extract and supply being balanced. In a two storey house the hall and landing aren't usually classed as living areas but there is no reason why a supply can't be fitted either to balance the system or because the hall is large and used as a living area, as in my last house.

I designed and installed the MVHR system in my last house and I had an outlet in the hall which helped with balancing the system. It's not a problem. Here is the calculation for the house.

+1 Exactly what we did with our Belle Minimix.

IMHO overall it's a nice design. I like the entry view. The SE view has too much glazing and the NW view has too much render. Breaking up the render with timber cladding as in the entry view would help.

I've had one of those, seemed much the same as others I've had.

Originally I was going to use dung boards, because they come in 4.8m and 6.1m lengths, and have several short posts along the lengths to stop flex. Wendy didn't think they were chunky enough so the plans changed to sleepers. The idea was for two 3m long raised beds seperated by a 1m walkway covered by a long arch, so forming a cross shape. The problem is long chunky bits of oak are a lot more expensive than dung boards.

Not yet, but was going to later this year. I was going to use the 100mm thick sleepers and if they did flex tie them together on the inside with a short post half way along. Keep us updated I'll watch with interest.

I cast replacement window sills at my old Victorian cottage in the nineties. I did much the same as you except I put lengths of rebar longways in the mould to strengthen the extended ends.

Welcome to the forum, we're eight or nine miles north of you.

If the trees would be in the way of your build and are not covered by a TPO then I would remove them before applying for planning permission. I don't know of anywhere other than on the LA list.

Do they insist on having a smart meter.

OVO have certainly slipped down my ratings. Like @ProDave my FiTs were changed from SSE to OVO and they told me my electricity supply would be changed to OVO as well. So last December I tried to change my FiTs from OVO to Good Energy. Good Energy told me they couldn't switch me because my generation meter hadn't been checked recently so I asked OVO to inspect the meter. It wasn't sorted out until last week and I had to email the OVO CEO Complaints Department to get a resolution. I also got an apology, a nice hamper of goodies and a cheque for £50 but I'm still moving my FiTs and my electricity supplier when I can find a decent one.

IIRC the tape I used was 20mm wide. To ensure the seal is watertight, the gap to be filled, should be within the expansion range of the tape.

Compriband is UV stable which may be or not important in some applications. I have used an alternative which worked for me with sealing windows but I don't know if it was the only sealing layer it would work very long term. https://www.affixit.co.uk/expanding-foam-tape-compriband-alternative.html