Brickie

Would it not be possible to build a battered retaining wall in front of the existing?You’d lose some square metreage as you would with Gabions but retain most of the light to those windows.

Mortar still looks green-were you there whilst they were at break? Should be jointed up even in the footings-it encourages full joints as they’re easier to joint.

Whilst the wall doesn’t look amazing,I can’t help thinking that a bit of repair work would see you get 10-15 years more life out of it. There are brick restoration methods involving building out with sand/cement & SBR & then tinting to match which look pretty good when done correctly. Would be a hell of a lot cheaper than a total rebuild,depends how much it’s bugging you really.

Massive one in the Seven Sisters area of North London.

If it’s non projecting,it ceases to be a dental course,and is just standard brickwork.

Are there more brick failures around the back of the wall or is it just what can be seen?

It would better to pitch the roof first,and then do the cuts to suit.

Can you not affix the cavity closer to the frame somehow,so it’s not dependent on some form of support?

I’d consider @tonyshouse advice re notifying insurers to be safe-bear in mind we’re all commenting from a couple of photos. Is the crack also on the other side of the pier? Have you spoken to neighbours to see if they have the same issue?

I’d prefer to see it bonded in,though it does look an odd size (170mm projection maybe) which may have given them a head wobble & led to it being built independently.

Looks like that pier may not be bonded in with main wall-possibly built independently with cavity ties tying it in. I assume the pier carries a steel further up which becomes the outside wall above the garage?

Are you hoping to put the roof & covering on before the external skin is built?

https://www.pavingexpert.com/ I believe many on here have recommended this site in the past.

Sounds like it,neee a pic to clarify as @markc says.

Prob worth dropping the TF supplier an e-Mail re soffit detail & bed joint reinforcement. Cutting blocks is fine if done with a grinder,though the brickies may complain.

Not done a TF for a while but last few I did in block,bed joint reinforcement was required two courses below & above all openings to reduce likelihood of cracking. Couple of other bits off top of my head- Brickfill (or similar) expansion joint foam on a roll (also used to put this at the eaves junction you mentioned.) Coursing bricks for above & below openings.

Have you tried a Brickmatching service if the local merchants draw a blank? Btw-are you sure of those measurements? Is it possible you measured a brick which has been cut? Standard sizes are given in Metric for modern bricks & you would expect 215mmx100x65 or thereabouts.

Have you checked the levels right round with a dumpy or laser? if it’s just 10 mm lower then a block laid flat to kick off would give you 110mm,leaving 900mm. If the footing rises up in places,the Brickie can switch to laying engineering or concrete coursing bricks in those areas for the first course.

+1. If one side is more on show than the other (e.g. if the garden side will have bushes,shrubs or whatever in front of it) then you could just have piers that side (so 327mm piers on a 215mm wall,flush to one side.)

https://www.planningportal.co.uk/info/200130/common_projects/20/fences_gates_and_garden_walls/2 Note-wall thickness of half brick is single skin,and then multiples thereof.

…100% true,and the main reason I advise people on this forum to choose a different insulation system.

For me,that system requires such attention to detail & supervision during the install that you don’t actually achieve the u-value they claim. Think about a bricky on the scaffold cutting those sheets at a tray damp detail,or around a lintol,or even just up to a cavity closer on a reveal. Trust me,there’ll be gaps galore.

Personally I’d use 1:1:6 (cement:hydrated lime:sand). The lime should make the mortar a little more forgiving with those blocks. Might be worth talking to your architect/engineer/bricklayer about introducing some movement joints too.

+1

Motorised pallet truck?