PeterW

I’d use an air to air heat pump (ie aircon) as it can cool as well as warm. You can get a self install split unit for £350 and it would be easier and quicker to get the place warm.

No issue with adding more over the existing stuff - just keep it away from the edges. If its 100mm it’s probably 12m long rolls so just put it out over bedrooms etc that you use - assuming you can see the ceiling joists to stand on first ..!

Yep - any store ... even easier if you have a Plumbfix / Electfix account too ... Found the wording : We work hard with our suppliers not only to get the highest quality products but also to get the lowest possible prices. At times, other companies may offer a similar product at a lower price, perhaps as part of a special promotion. Unfortunately at this time, we are unable to offer price matching through the mail order side of our business and I apologise for any disappointment this may cause. However, our Trade Counters are now able to price match at store level providing certain criteria is met and the terms and conditions are as follows: Just let the Trade Counter know within 14 days of your order Applies to all competitors within a 10 mile radius The item must be packaged, sold as new and in stock at the competitors The price must be available to all customers Please provide us with some proof (invoice, catalogue, advert) ...alternatively we do have to obtain verbal confirmation from the competitor Excludes Internet or mail order prices Excludes competitor clearance events According to some it can be a bit hit and miss ....

Try Orbital Fasteners - won’t be with you til Tuesday though.

If you hire one for the time it will take it will be about £4k..... ?

They will snap ..... I would really not try as it will look a mess..!

Hose bans are funny things ... some water authorities state its the hose irrespective of the water source as it all affects water levels. I would do it with a filter and a self priming pump - a decent pressure type one is less than £100 on eBay. Quick and easy and only needs a hose into the stream.

You can butt joint the worktops - just make sure it’s a clean join and use a couple of biscuits to reinforce it. The bolts are too deep and will cause issues to the structure of the work top. And its the 600/2200 that’s not perfectly square or finished. I had 6 and they were 2200 +/-6mm

Ask if she wants a nice kitchen or a nice drive .....

50sqm I would be looking at tarmac or a bonded gravel or similar - if it was a patio I would sort of agree with the plank type slabs but not a driveway.

For a driveway ....??? You could buy 600x600 and cut them in half, would give the same effect ... and still be 30% of the price.

£100 a metre for Indian sandstone ..??!!!!! Someone is having a laugh ..!!! Sandblasting it to make it non slip is ridiculous as all you will do is make it hold muck and water. talk to these guys - https://www.pavingdirect.com/paving-slabs

Sorry was looking for a link in your first post .... So a fully bedded sandstone paver will take a vehicle with no problem. Sand and cement pointing is cheap and easy - dry day and the premixed bagged stuff just poured into the joints and water it to make it set. Sandstone isn’t expensive though so not sure where you’ve been looking ..?? Regularised sandstone mixed size packs can be had for £15/m so if it’s much more than that you’re being ripped off ...

At 500 centres I would go for 22mm. I use Egger and you can join anywhere - just glue the joints and stagger them. Easier and better than messing about when you’ve got walls in between joists too

Are you in a conservation area ..? Decent Arborist will take a look at it - one tree and a page of notes is about £75-100 tops assuming a ground level survey. And I pay £600 per day for aerial work - that’s 2 guys and a hobbit feeding the chipper.

Rain on a roof is only contaminated by airborne particles and dirt. Ground borne contamination can include hydrocarbons such as oil and fuel, and other chemicals such as antifreeze or anything spilt on the floor. None of which you want in your rainwater tank !!

nope... 50x25mm battens that run at right angles to the rafters at 400 centres. 25mm Kingspan friction fitted between them and then the batten and the edge of the insulation sealed with 100mm foil tape. Plasterboards are then fitted to the battens directly. Gives a very "firm" finish with no flexing of the boards when they are fitted.

So I struggle with this one...! you can still be profitable doing it to a higher standard as your remediation costs are lower. I've got zero tolerance for trades who don't want to do it properly, and yet when you get to the end of them whining and bitching about having to do it "right" then they actually accept its easier to do follow on when its been done properly in the first place...

That's good news ! Worth a bottle of scotch when they are returned..??

This should help https://www.enviromat.co.uk/blog/green-roof-timber-edge

Most suggest using a coarse gravel or stone at the edges with fabric to stop the fines getting into the guttering. Will see if I can find a pic.

Yep - 25mm under the rafters and battens at 90 degrees to them so cold bridging reduced to 50x50 mm squares ....

We did the rigid insulation on the roof using 25mm insulation with 25mm battens at 400mm centres. The insulation was tightly packed between the battens and then taped with aluminum tape. Plasterer said he’d never seen such a tidy job, and that it was 1000% better than most sites where it’s usually falling out and full of gaps..... It’s attention to detail that sets self builders apart, you can use the same materials, it’s just how you use them and the attention paid to how they are finished.

Yep probably should have said in the ceiling as the flow would be one to the other unless it was directed properly. I’d (theoretically) put the inlet on the outside of the bathroom door and extract above the shower and then the flow is near perfect for taking warm moist air away.

Can’t have inlet and outlet in the same room - you would get no flow. 15mm copper wouldn’t work - too thick at 0.9mm wall You could always just get on with tiling .... ?