PeterW

Why ..??? Or why not put the gas domino on an outside wall and then it’s easy ..?? You’ll be looking thick end of £8-900 for the install with pipework etc, and all the GSR stuff, for what benefit ..?

@Tom If you duct the gas pipe then it will have to be TracPipe and it will also need venting - seriously consider binning the gas hob and going electric induction (assuming this is why you need gas) and save yourself the monumental headache and cost.

Sorry but that is just the line diagram - you need to tag mark the services as found on the ground using the correct marker paint, and then dig. When you say “I have scanned the Lane” do you mean you personally, or hired a contractor .? As if it’s you personally then you issue this - you’re liable if they aren’t where you say they are ! I would be very cautious taking this approach unless you carry £2-5m PL insurance for underground survey work.

MI’s state 3/4-1.25” inlet/outlet fittings. The 1” will refer to the valve bore size.

Check they are 1”BSP and not 3/4” as there is a significant size difference. I tend to use Tectitw sprint fittings on them so there is no torque on the housing once installed and then use 22mm copper

I think your advice is don’t get your QS… a good one is worth their weight in gold, a bad one as you have found is useless.

Is that under building regs as that seems too thin. Wunda do kits to a size with all that you need in them.

The chance of those services being where they are on the plan is near nil. The contractor needs to take on the full HSE requirements for the installation - they should as a matter of course CAT scan the whole lane and then tag and mark the services where they lie. They then can decide where to dig but it’s their liability and their safety. I’ve never had a contractor take any underground survey on face value !!

If you’re getting condensation then a small heat recovery fan unit that draws from the two “wet” rooms along with the kitchen and replaces it with outside air into bedroom and living space would be ideal. You would need another duct through the wall but all easily doable.

Looks too low to be Part M and only have a 3-4mm LVT on it. What’s the depth on the threshold .? The crap corner needs trimming back and the DPC checking but it’s a quick fill with some self leveling compound.

That’s crap about all bamboo - some are clump forming, some are running. The running ones can cause issues but it takes a long time to happen @zoothorn have you got the label off it ..?

Err that’s criminal damage ..? Including knowingly damaging work that wasn’t his ..? I’d have pointed out the issue, advised that they could either take down and redo their own work or I would ask them to pay for it to be done. Not being able to follow plans is not acceptable for a brickie - if in doubt, ask.

As you’re going more than 30% of the roof width that would need steels most likely for ridge and below the dormer itself. Looks like multiple extensions already - have you checked you’ve still got PD rights..? The dormer to the left is a good example of how not to do it too ….

1. Not surprising unless you have attached decent extraction to it. They are not designed with positive extraction blowing into the bag. 2. yep- Mirka or Festool… just sit down when you look at the prices .. https://restorate.co.uk/products/mirka-deros-5650cv-deco-solution-kit-230v Festool 576323 Eccentric Sander ETS EC150/3 EQ-Plus 240V https://amzn.eu/d/bvdXbl4

Add a time penalty for every week - say £5k a week - and then look at your schedule. Let’s say it’s a 26 week schedule, and I would factor in 20% delay currently.. so let’s say 5 weeks … And if you want me to sign up to your contract I’ll just add £30k into my price. That’s how fixed price contract penalties work - unless you have some monumental cost of capital, or have an exact deadline you need to hit, then just try and be reasonable.

You won’t get 70°C out of an ASHP. Why not resize the rads to use the lower temperature of the ASHP, put a 400 litre UVC in and then use any solar if you install to dump to the UVC..? Much better than a big thermal store.

so your architect has substituted your space for green credentials - this happens ..! What was the brief to him ..? Also seeing you are in France, are there any specific building codes you need to follow ..?

+1 to what’s above and did 150mm fill with EPS beads.

These are ones supplied for installing gates so just use a cross head stud you hit with a hammer and rotate 90 degrees. Will need to check.

As above - should be running in the 1.5-2bar range when hot, so around 1.2bar cold. I would push up to 2 bar into the system and then check. I would also check the setting on the expansion vessel as sometimes these are set low and the bladder may be under pressure. If it’s a new system then you may have air in the system in high points - did he add inhibitor too ..?

Think I’ve got some along with some Fischer glue capsules somewhere that are M12

Nope - they won’t cut in as most of the load is in sheer not compression. Worst case you add a round washer the same size as the spacer and the hole at the back, it could also be used as a shim to level all the tubes if needed.

Shelly EM will do what you want.

Won’t the bifolds catch on the waste pipe ..?? Poor design IMHO

So the market is tight for labour as we are still about 30% short on contingent and migrant labour and it won’t get better soon. Net unemployment to available jobs is less than 1 now (ie more open jobs than unemployed) and cost of living will hold day rates up as domestic house building is a real niche market. Timber market prices have dropped 2 months in a row - and getting cheaper. Bricks and blocks have gone up, mainly down to gas prices. What have you got plans to build ..??! Can build a house for £96k .. have you looked at the cost per square metre of outbuilding as it should be substantially cheaper than the main build unless it is to the same standard.