PeterW

Love the bottle funnels ..!!! Just as belt and braces, I would put a plastic shield over the top of the plug socket panel and seal to the wall in case water somehow gets in there. Lovely tidy job there though !!

You should be able to twist the joists back using noggins as they should square up the joists. Herringbone steel struts won’t work as they need to be on the top of the joists or will be too long

Looking at your wall build up, 600mm will get you into your PIR inside. Should be easy to dig a hole in that.

solder another length of copper to it ...

That is a standard Hep2O elbow. Don’t forget an internal isolator - Balofix or similar.

That is utterly irrelevant unless you are going to be post tensioning and salt gritting your beams on a regular basis, whilst using a semi porous top coat and allowing thousands of gallons of water to flow over them over a 30 year period. Or alternatively, I’d love to see how your BCO can make condensation occur on a beam that is the same temperature as the outside air..???

OK in over 25 years I’ve only ever seen moisture on the inside face of a brick once, and that was due to it being buried - concrete beams by design can be submerged in water indefinitely, this is such a minuscule risk it’s not worth worrying about. If the OP is worried then slip a piece of DPC between the front and back faces, but where it is really needed is when the screed is done, and also this needs to be insulated.

Scaffold boards are wider and if they span outside to inside it gives you something to support and fix the edges Of your inner floor boards to.

Depends - Hadleys had a lot of 50mm ones and even some 63mm ones when I was in there last. 38mm is available too. if you can get 38mm ones, do two rows round the outside and drop OSB in the middle and you’ve got a nice space for a couple of sheets of 60mm Celotex.

Via what route ..?? Brickwork isn’t porous enough to let that much moisture through - more likely to get damp from below.

As long as there is a proper DPM lapped onto the outside brickwork under the DPC then there won’t be an issue. Just make sure there is a decent thermal break when the slab is cast.

just get it off the floor outside on pallets and then put a decent tarpaulin over it. Much easier and quicker than trying to keep it elsewhere. And @andyscotland has said use OSB3 and get the deck down first. If you can get the scaffold boards then I’d be using them as outside too instead of 3x2. If they overlap the frame you can protect the edge of the OSB too.

I got asked to leave a development a couple of months back after I started pointing out all the issues with a new house ... The site manager told me I was trespassing and they “could call the police...” which was kind of ironic given I was stood on the road with a friend who’s a copper .... kwalitee in new builds is appalling .!!!

Nope those Grundfos units can do a 6m head comfortably.

Fit an adapter then - takes 2 mins. https://www.toolstation.com/pump-adaptor/p75109

PB bodies have been around for the past couple of years. Got much cheaper too ..!! Can you get the exact model and also measure from nut to nut as they do both a 130 and a 180mm body SB60

Ok so go with a PU bodied Grundfos at £72... https://www.euroboilerparts.co.uk/pu130-5-grundfos-pump-1-12-plastic-body-replacement-for-grundfos-bronze-pump-1205-p.asp

Or even make a plate with a 25mm hole in it to make sure there is some background ventilation and bond that behind the vent.

if it’s knackered, swap it for one of these. £80 and keep the change... https://www.screwfix.com/p/wilo-yonos-pico-25-1-6-130-glandless-circulating-pump-230v/6153x#product_additional_details_container

No need for a bronze pump in a heating circuit Undo the centre screw cover and see if you have any water in the gland - some have a slot in the end for you to give it a twist. Or a couple of sharp taps with a hammer although if it was working and is not now, that sounds more electrical.

The issue is how quick an ASHP can get heat into the water - even an 18kW will struggle as it’s about a small volume of water getting the heat so the response time is slow. With a gas boiler, you’re getting a rapid heat up which is what is expected with rads.

So - interesting you say that..!! Thermostat currently set at 18.5c, and heating was running on Monday. Been in today and thermostat says 15.5c as the zone valve motor has failed - temperature up here hasn’t been above 13c for most of the week so reckon that’s about a 0.5c loss per day. The flip side is that just putting the ASHP on for 2 hours only gained me 1c, will leave it to do its thing tonight on E7 and see what it is doing in the morning.

The blending valve controls it. When the floor starts off, the blending valve will demand more hot than recirc as the return temp will be 15/16c and the demand will be 35c so the boiler will be providing a lot of the heat. As the return temperature increase then the amount returned to the boiler starts to reduce, and this is where the boiler will start to short cycle if you’re not careful.

So an ASHP will get to 48c on DHW without a problem. It will also get to 56c if you let them a keep going but the CoP will drop toward 1 the higher the temperature. And if you have a big old house, an ASHP isn’t the ideal solution anyway ...

So “real hot water” has a maximum temperature of 47c as set by building regulations (in Scotland) via a TMV2 mixing valve so any hotter is pointless ... I store at 62c and then accept the losses but also use a lot of hot water.