PeterW

Yep crack on ..! Always cut DPM so it’s upward facing and overlap where you can. That looks the tidiest build ever !!

Ok - seems to be a bit baggy ..?? Can split with a knife near the top and lift it up and overlap the lot. Makes the whole lot flat and up the back of the plasterboard.

Yep... but you won’t get a grid switch to take a 30/40A cooker circuit. Max is 20A for grid switches from all the major manufacturers. I’ve got an 6 way that has 2 Ovens, fridge, dishwasher, microwave and boost switch for the MVHR and all signed off

Bend it up and wedge it out the way with the boards if it’s in the way, plasterboard will cover it.

Depends on your DHW heating system ..? ASHP..?? Gas..? Oil..? This method would mean you have the towel rail on permanently including in the summer. That is a big heat load into the house if it is well insulated. It would also mean you are constantly topping up the hot water tank, and that would be in peak electric time, and potentially an inefficient use of the heat source as it may be short cycling.

I have a Van Vault type safe that I got from an auction and replaced the locks on it. Cost about £70 and the locks were £30. I'll sell it on in a couple of months and I'll make my money back.

Pick a battery technology then buy to match. Stick with one, wether it is LXT, Flex or whatever. 3 batteries then add impact driver, multi tool and circular saw. Then work out from that if you’re doing a lot of sheet work then a decent plunge saw and rail set is a must have.

That’s a bit more than a standard unvented cylinder but suppose over a few years it will pay back - less heat loss means less overheating too in the house. Did you buy direct ..?

Please don’t do that. It’s not expensive and go buy some biodegradable chain oil instead of spreading crap into the environment. And please wear proper PPE for the saw - you can’t outrun the chain when it snaps, and it won’t be pretty if it does.

Interesting - what’s the price on one of those ..?? VIPs are eye watering normally and don’t like being bent so would be interesting to see how they get round a cylinder.

They don't exist... well, hot water ones don't ! If you want A rated then Sunamp is your only option

Yep - that should allow you to move it where you need to. also, all your pipe work is currently not bedded - can you bed it to lift the pipe join level ..??

yep you can get 1.5 degrees of misalignment in a joint either side of centre, so taking the tangent on a 3m pipe (or effectively 2880mm when inserted into a socket) then you get 75.4mm angular deflection in any plane. So an 8002mm, minus 240mm would be 203.23mm movement ......

It’s the 2mm that has blown it ... by my calculation you have 209.56mm of wiggle room there ... Carry on..!

what distance is that ..?? if you use 3m lengths of pipe you can get 75mm movement off centre anyway.

Yes they aren't certified for underground Got an 11 or a 22 lying about..??

Its absolutely fine as a unit for that size - can easily do 1ACH and you'll be able to sort the balance etc no problem

What is your floor area, wet rooms and ceiling height...?

That is an interesting thought however I would ensure that it doesn't swamp the treatment plant. It should be ok if it is only a 5sqm roof, even with your wet weather. So I wouldn't use the first connection. Dig the IC out so it is further down the trench and come in on the second branch - it is a 45 degree full flow, and doesn't have the kink that the 90 branch has. Then use a 45 degree long radius bend into the second socket. Shower should use a 45 degree bend into a Y branch, then come up to the rodding point from the back end of the Y branch.

https://beamcalc.co.uk/

You always have long edges unsupported but they are skimmed over...? Then you start the next board (1200mm edge) on a joist..?? Then it’s brick pattern to stagger the joints.

But the insulation in freezers is thicker normally and once they are down to temperature they hold it well. Interestingly the under counter fridge here is noisier than the large upright freezer.

You couldn’t get an American fridge freezer in there but you could reuse the doors as they are, fit some steel joiners over the gaps and fit a side by side larder fridge and larder freezer. May potentially look better if you used the doors from the end unit, you’d have to rework a bit of the middle section for the boiler cupboard but it would be fine.

let some air out of the tyres to lower it down...

Can you use a Telehandler instead ..??? What height do you need to lift to ..?