PeterW

Depends. BCO won’t give them anything - you need to give the BCO the as built to prove your build has met Part L of the building regulations And altering an as built SAP to gain higher RHI payments would constitute fraud but don’t let that stop you ...

Yes - but you need the as built or complete score and that needs someone to do it for you and then file it, and it is there forever in the system.

They should both be on the same circuit / spur from memory - @ProDave can you confirm...? Is the boiler running all the time then ..??

Assume this is to get RHI for your ASHP..? If it’s an MCS install then it’s an as built or finished EPC which you can’t get as you’ll need to get things such as air test etc. You need as low a score as possible but inside a D (C..?) to qualify for RHI. Get an A and you’ll get about £100 a year, get a C and you’ll get £500

Fold it over into an inverted U shape and it should be fine ..? Where do counterbattens feature in all of this so the cavity can drain ..?

That 25-60 is more powerful but not by much TBH as you have a balance valve with the tank I would be binning the mid position and replacing it with a 2 port and that way you are simplifying the controls, other option is W Plan and a diverter valve. As you’re on oil the time the DHW runs is irrelevant to cost so why not set that to 4:30-6am then put heat on from 6-7:30 and they won’t be fighting.? And no idea what that air separator is doing but I bet it’s sludged up ... where does the heating return back into the boiler return out of interest ..??

Cut the end of the tube to about 8mm and force it to push into the gap, scrape the top flat and then wipe with a baby wipe. It may sag a little but if that’s 12-15mm thick timber it won’t drop out. Then go over it again when it’s dry.

Be careful what you wish for ..!! Plot near me complained about this incessantly and in the end the council came and raised the pavement crossing to make it camber back toward the road - driveway became completely unusable as the break over angle was too steep and they ended up paying the council to put it back how it was and then install an Aco drain at the boundary so they paid twice for the same thing ...

I agree the installer manual is (I’m not posting a link to that ..!!!) but the user manual is pretty decent tbh and no worse than any other controller manual I’ve seen recently. So as not to confuse, if you want to PM me the photos of the settings (if you can get to them) I can have a look at what it’s set to.

Gully or drainage ditch ..? @PeterStarck discharges rainwater to the road from memory

You may get away with 5mm but I would do it in two goes. First fill and wipe with a baby wipe so it is below the surface of the gap, then when that is dry do another layer.

A whole room extract rate is fine if the extract is not over the hob. It is not a requirement to have an extractor ..! Table 5.1A of Part F is what you need to refer to. 13 l/s for continuous extraction from a kitchen is what is required. When you are looking at intermittent extract then it has to be at the correct rates of 30/60 l/s depending on whether it is over the hob or not.

Yep or a baby wipe and wipe all but the tiniest amount off. Only designed to fill the small cracks and seal the edges.

Zinnser Bulls Eye 1-2-3 is the best.

Was the phone previously on another locked network or did you buy it 2nd hand ..?? Tesco will do, any of them tbh will work as long as the phone is unlocked.

SIM registration has failed then and that phone no longer works. Go to Asda and get an Asda sim and put that in it and register it.

I think his point is that it doesn’t have a third temperature setting - so on / daytime setback / nighttime setback, it’s like a lot of the UFH controllers that only cope with two settings although if it is “off” at 18c then it will be trying to maintain that at night and it will run overnight.

This isn’t the case and you do get more noise from an internal split. Same with A2A units. Can’t do that with the unit he has - it only has 2 temperature settings, the heat setting and the setback. Both have to be the same in on/off periods so basically whatever temperature is “off” between 9am and 12 noon for example is the same setting between midnight and 6am. I don’t think it is on for long enough in a morning. I think you need it to come on from 6:30am to 9:30am for a while and see what difference that makes. Also, dialing it up and down isn’t helping - these are “smart” controls that use the outside temperature to work out when the target temperature is needed to be reached and I think you’re changing it and expecting it to respond instantly the same way gas does. I think you may need a compromise here and set the whole house setting to 18c from 6am - 9pm and if it’s “chilly” then boost it up to 20c using the dial when you want that.

Ok so auto means it is timed. So it is running two or three heat periods and a couple of hot water periods. First off .. if it is only dropping to 18c on the off period then it is the reason you have issues overnight - there is only one setback temperature. I wonder if they have only set it to 18c on setback. Secondly that hot water setting is pointless - it’s not like a kettle and a new tank will hold hot water for a long time. You would be better having it come on for say 2 hours when the heating finishes in an evening - 9-11pm assuming you can’t have it on overnight due to noise, and then have it boost again 11-12pm to top it right up. Ideally you would load shift that to the overnight tariff if you had E7. I think when you get Vaillant out to it to sort the pressure loss I would ask them to walk you through the settings and what it is set to as without seeing it first hand or photos of each setting I’m struggling.

If it is that unit then it will be interesting to see what it is actually set to

Legionnaires in sealed domestic hot water systems is a myth. It requires an open connection to air to contaminate the water and oxygen to continue its growth. If you do feel the need to “disinfect” then once a fortnight you can hit the 72c boost on the immersion

The outside stat is quite useful as it will control the running of the unit. What would be useful is to know what you want it to do. When do you want the rads on and off, and when do you want the hot water on and off. From that, it can be programmed.

NO..!! This is not the same. Not all units have the internal “boiler” as you describe it. A Monoblock unit has all those parts in the same unit outside and just water flows into the house. Yours uses refrigerant to transfer between inside and outside not water.

That isn’t true - they are totally different. The size of the units, type of unit (split vs monoblock) and the heating media (rads vs UFH) mean these are two completely different set ups. The issue here is one of controls - which is what we need to focus on.

Can you take a photo @zoothorn of this controller please on the inside unit or the thermostat and post it here ..? Can everyone bear in mind this is NOT a monoblock ASHP but a split unit so in the house there is a unit that will make more noise than just a circulation pump. You can’t compare the two as being as silent as each other.