PeterW

That just means the corrugated plastic ducting that is 65/75mm in diameter. Rigid is normally uPVC or galvanised steel, flexible is the nasty plastic film coated slinky spring wire stuff.

So have you had an air test or not ..? There should be a blower door certificate.

Looks like an old Prowarm or D600 clone - Chinese in providence and probably fairly simple to reprogramme. How old is it..?

what sort of build is this ..?? £200 gets you an air test, get a 2.5 instead of 5 and your issue goes away.

How big is the roof ..? And what will hold the attenuated water ..?

7 zones in an extension is a lot of pipe or a lot of very small zones ..! The issue you are having with the boiler is that it’s dumping 70°C water into the mixer which is possibly only wanting 40°c water, and you have one loop capable of servicing this. It’s probably got a very low flow rate too. I would take a couple of other actuators off and let them have a clear run and see if it makes a difference. If so, it’s flow.

Agree - I was suggesting oil plus the barrier rather than just oil (probably wasn’t clear)

You can’t do 1 without getting permission from your sewage provider as the section from existing to the road becomes an adopted sewer as it services more than one property. Option 2 requires an easement in property ones deeds so has a cost.

The cost for application is the same. And it makes you plan stuff such as all the points I have called out such as pipework that cannot be installed due to steels or joists the wrong way round.

Ok so what they are potentially saying is that the door from the bedroom has to access the loft access to escape. That could be an issue on the basis that there isn’t a door I expect at the top of the stairs ..? If this was a full plans access and the BCO has just picked this up then I would be escalating it to their manager (assuming this is Local Authority BC..?) and also asking if it was flagged to the builder prior to start. If the company has designed this to be compliant and it is not, then I wouldn’t be paying any final bills and would be expecting them to resolve.

As per what @markc said, what is the issue that they are saying this causes ..? Is it the room accessing from the protected corridor ..? Also was this a full plans application or building notice ..? Full plans they should have picked that up at plan inspection.

the WC is above the largest open void and unless you go to the north wall - so go in reverse and put a fairly nasty external soil stack - you can’t get it easily to the East wall where the majority of other WC connections need to be. Depth of the floor would have to be pretty deep to get drops, and if floor joists run east west it will be around 150mm drop across that run and it still then has to do a dog leg unless you do a run of soil stacks along the East wall which isn’t ideal. one option would be to box out the end of the wall where the bifold stops in the edge of the kitchen and use that as a stack and put plenty of sound insulation around it so immediately to the left of the WC there would be a vertical stack. I’d flip the downstairs study WC and shower too and put the WC against the wall as you can also then box in to pick up the Jack and Jill on the same stack. Similar with the front cloaks, switch it left to right and you’ve got a chance of picking up a stack in the bottom right corner of that room. Who’s doing all your plumbing design ..? Ventilation ..? Decent M&E designer should see that off in a couple of days or so with a full set of plans and elevations and the site plan.

Never seen a house built on a building notice and very much doubt you will find a company that will do it. The opportunity for finding a 5 figure issue at inspection would be huge.

Good luck .... AC designers that a client of mine uses won’t go near any job that is less than 6,000sqft - there is no money in it and it is a specialist industry. I can find plenty of FGas certified refrigeration engineers, try finding one who can design the AHU and ductwork is a different issue entirely. Nope - may require PP if it was plant on a roof and it would be horrendously noisy as the roof will act like a drum. This is why this stuff needs professional design.

I charge travel time - if I didn’t I would just wrap it up into fees and make them higher but I try and make sure things are transparent. Someone wants me to drive 3 hours across the country to look at something, why shouldn’t I charge as it’s a full day lost.

Main bathroom run is going to be a nightmare. I’m assuming you don’t want any external soil stack showing on this new build ..??

Why are you telling the surveyor what materials you want to use ..? Let him make the recommendations as it’s his PI when it goes wrong or doesn’t work how you want it to. That’s less than 3 days chargeable work. You lose half a day for travel, half day to inspect, day to a day and a half to write up a report and make recommendations - at £400/ day that is cheap for a surveyor, mine is on site for 20 minutes and charges £85.

Where are you located..?

I see a lot now that want CSCS cards as they are liable for tax etc if it goes wrong so they do it properly from the outset. @Gaz711 You can no longer do the ACOPS/ACS courses to get your gas certs without experience as the GSR requires a minimum amount of on site work (12 months from memory but could be wrong) so focusing on the ASHP side would be a smart move as there are very few traditional plumbers who understand them. Rates for site plumbers for the big house builders aren't great but they are pretty constant, but they don't go for quality. In terms of tools, whether you go sub contract or on your own, you won't get change out of £1500 for a decent set of tools and batteries etc along with some decent brand (ie Rothenberger) hand tools. The big thing you need is insurance - cutting the wrong pipe and dumping 500 litres of water through someone's ceiling can be a five figure repair bill and you need to make sure you are properly covered from the outset.

Nope - just things like dishwashers although a better method is to oil the underside too with Osmo Top Oil before the appliances are fitted as it stops moisture getting into the wood.

You need more than 10cm duct - you’ll need to work out the fan coil unit first (some only use rectangular for example) and then the flow rates, plenums and then insulate the whole lot with nitrile or rigid fibre insulation. That’s not a few quid while you’re pulling an extra cable or two in, and is a specialist design job that usually gets contracted out.

Depth is fine at 1.1m if you go that route, anything over 1.2m needs a locking lid / restrictor ring. Quickest way with a ring set is do what @Ronan 1said and set the top with a decent concrete haunch. I always make sure they go down to below the level of the first joint so the top ring can’t be displaced.

That is brilliant news !! That makes more sense as a layout - if you box in the end of the shower area you would make a decent location for plant and anything else you want to hide as I make it 1.4x1.6m..?? Could comfortably get a 400 litre UVC along with a buffer, UFH manifold and the electrical panels.

Why so many Windows and doors in a utility ..?? It’s currently a corridor - can you lose the wiring as it’s confusing and just post the wall layouts and make it a bit bigger ..? There are no issues with UFH heating a space that size as long as : - the insulation levels are good in the floor, which is common for any UFH - wall and roof insulation is preferably better than BRegs - the ASHP is sized to meet the requirement of a -5°C outside temperature loss and can achieve it within 12 hours Other than that, it’s just a glorified electric boiler.

I would go for point use AC with A2A units in strategic places like vaulted hallways with high ceilings and master bedrooms. You can’t hide a big AC duct set and you’ll be ripping walls apart to put gas pipework in anyway as that can’t be installed and left as it may be in the wrong places for your fan coil units. You’ll also need condensate pipework and a whole host of other connections - one or two A2A units and cooled UFH will resolve this.