PeterW

Still need glycol / antifreeze in the system as you have an air to water heater pump and there is water held in the external heat exchanger

OK so the dry ridge will be slightly lower / same height as mortared ridge tiles however you do need someone to install it correctly. Those ridge tiles could be reused however if they are crock full of mortar you may crack them removing it so worth getting some spares anyway. Looks like you’ve got a couple of slipped slates too so you may have to do some rework on that roof. Is the membrane breathable that has been installed ..?? Makes me laugh though that the conservation idiot is worried about ridge tiles yet is happy with UPVC guttering ….. they really are a strange breed !!

Click or Schneider Lisse are fine. Not sure anyone makes white painted / powder coated switches and sockets in anything but flat plate and they have the downside that they scratch and aren’t easily repaired without it showing.

only if they make it worse ..!! You cannot say BRegs say as close as 200mm but MIs say 100mm so that’s ok, as the BRegs are based on statute law and MIs are just instructions

Policy - a good submission states “In line with Planning Policy A3.7, the property has been oriented to maximise solar gain to reduce the carbon footprint of the build etc etc” Planner can’t argue with that as their policy has to be applied and if they don’t then you can appeal and say they aren’t sticking to their own rules

That’s a bit vague !!! Have you registered and paid for Building Control inspections with your local council ..??

How will you fill them ..?

No because the “pump” in a system is actually an open impeller circulator so it doesn’t care as long as there is no air which causes them to cavitate That’s horse $h!t as the glycol you use is normally already diluted and is free flowing. Quickest way to add more (as it’s really antifreeze) is to drain the filter and add at that point 0.5 litres at a time. Easily done yourself.

Use Munsen Rings as you can slot them behind the pipe then add the top ring

Start the internal strip out where the lift will go - write to the council Planning Department (not BC) and state work is commencing. Do you also have approved building regs too..?

yep / open it right up and also turn the pump up

That’s collecting air …

JTM have Armaflex which is about 1/3rd better insulation value for same thickness and is flexible so bends etc are easier than poly.

how is it lawful ..? It’s very big to be under PD..! And you need building regulations for that size so factor that in.

means it’s not fitted properly and not had clips or tape applied..

why not the Egger one which I think you need to use to get the warranty ?? Merchant normally supplies with the boards for us.

12x9 at 200mm is 21 cubic metres of concrete, if you then said you wanted to dig down a further 150mm for hardcore then it’s 40 cubic metres to dig out. Adding bulk up that is probably 60 cubic metres of muck away. Using spons or a cost guide, you’d be 2 days of a machine (5T or 4CX) and operator so around the £750 for that. 4 loads of muck away, £1k round here on a grab wagon. MOT 1 is £8/m2 laid, so that’s another £1k. Adding in mesh, chairs and shuttering is probably 2 days for 2 guys assuming single layer and nothing clever so £1k labour and £1k of A252 and chairs etc Concrete - you can’t just drop 21 cube of RC25 in and let it flow so you probably need a team of 3 for the day - it will need floating so it’s probably £800 labour plus float hire. You should be able to get the concrete at around £100/cube so £2200 would cover it. All in, you’re at the £8k or so mark which isn’t too bad. You could trim this as tbh I think the mesh is overkill in this, and I’d use fibres instead but also thicken the edges of the slab to 400x400 so the portal frame is bolted to it. That would remove the mesh and add 3 cube of concrete. Add an extra day for digging out (£375) and fibres (£100) then it’s taking about £1200 off the pricing What sort of pricing have you been given..?

That is under G3 on the English Building Regs - need to read up on the ones wee Jimmie Krankie is making those north of the border work to but can’t see how they can be different. @Meabh if you’ve got a plan available someone will scribble the correct route for the D2 discharge

Most cylinders don’t have BBa certs as they are manufactured to order. Ask them which ones they think do… and what “part” of the regs are they referring to ..? In the Scottish technical handbook it is only 4.9.2 that refers to notifiable body, and tbh they also refer to out of date BS references so I can’t see elsewhere it asking for a BBa kitemark product ..? https://www.gov.scot/publications/building-standards-technical-handbook-2022-domestic/4-safety/4-9-danger-heat/

I can guarantee neither of these was built to the developers standard quality regime as I’ve seen their Coppersmith and I’ve seen more airtight shopping bags … Mirror panels tend not to be IR but are just radiant panel heaters stuck to the back of the mirror.

Supply or supply and install..??

Start with a letter registered post to his address with a copy of the contract, stating that he has contracted to complete the works and the following items are outstanding (roof windows etc) and that there are leaks appearing in the existing roof. These things may be linked but you’re not the expert ! Give him 14 days from the date of delivery to contact you to resolve the matter, or you will be looking to have the work completed and costs passed to him. If he doesn’t reply then go to solicitors letter, then to small claims. What type of contract did you use out of interest as some have resolution clauses for dispute in them (JCT for example)

£4.78 - cheaper than a pack of Marlboro .. https://www.toolstation.com/smoke-pellets/p38123

uPVC or steel / timber ..?? Only way to deaden the sound is a heavy door or multiple layers or both. Perspex won’t help, it will just vibrate. Can you construct an inner porch instead ..?

… and it can even point north as they count the array size not its actual output ..!