Pocster

https://metro.co.uk/2022/09/16/oklahoma-lorry-full-of-dildos-and-lube-overturns-and-spills-its-load-17387874/?ito=article.mweb.share.top.email

Lol ! We shall wait and see the “ my batteries in my basement caught on fire “ post … 😋

You’re going to burn to death when they over heat next summer ! 🤟

Oh what memories they bring back ! Do you remember the automated neutral analysis localiser I used on you ? ( for dumb asses that’s A.N.A.L )

I’m sure it’s bad practise , but ….. macerator pipe 32mm over a long run of 14m . Potential problem in the last 2m . Can I step the pipe ( 45 degree tee for example ) . Or if that’s bad use a reducer to say take it to 54mm then do the step ….. 🤔

I’ve got a 60cm wide and deep hole to break in concrete in an enclosed area . Swap jobs ? 😁👍

Seem to remember you guys noticed no tundish in one of my rentals . Job was all signed off and ‘ finished ‘ apparently. I got him back to add one though he was of course pissy for an ‘optional ‘ addition . It’s a safety feature so it’s mandatory ( not just rules but even in my own view ) .

@Thorfun ; my view of these things is you HAVE solutions. Whether it's a pipe run or a 800 quid pump. Don't beat yourself up over a relatively small cost addition to the entire project. Currently as SWMBO requests (wants!) a basement WC ( which I didn't plan for ) is adding around 3k in materials ( macerator toilet and pumping station ). So you got off lightly!

Same experience for me. Architect made no mention of the UVC needing 'overflow'. UVC installer did though. I recall ( it was a few years ago ) that he said pump - I pulled a face and pointed at the perimeter drain. He seemed happy with that. Though lets be honest a perimeter drain is plastic and isn't afaik designed to take boiling water. The only 'professionals' I found that would communicate ( because they have to ) was the architect with SE. This would usually result in an argument to a problem where they both recommend I install BOTH their methods. Needless to say I would simply choose what method I determine was best as I felt they were being A-holes and 'professional' pride ( not to admit the other solution was better by the other party ) was the issue......

It’s impossible to know everything in advance . As you point out your architect didn’t even mention it . Assuming there are no other possible routes then the only solution is a pump of some sort . We all ‘miss’ things due to lack of hindsight - I should know ! 😁

No chance of getting a pipe in the wall studding ? . Only need a slight fall .

No sunken garden or basement patio doors ? . Just trying to think if you could get a pipe from uvc to outdoor but below ground space .

So what’s your method for dealing with water potential ingress ? . I can’t remember the make up of your basement structure .

Is there simply no pump that can cope with that ??

You got no perimeter drain ? Uvc overflow could just go into a simple pump to drain …

Not critical - I’ve lagged the external hep20 but can’t see a reasonable way to lag the fittings ( primarily 90 degree tees ) . Looked online - nothing obvious springs up . These fittings are visible so prefer a neat solution . Yes ; I know - if they weren’t visible I would do whatever .

You heard correctly

Easier than hanging a door 😁

Sounds like a plan

It will genuinely be an extension lead to start with 😎

I know you want me to do the joinery myself . So you can post “ try a sharp chisel “ , “ did you hold the wrong end of the hammer “ , “ did you close your eyes rebating that hinge “ etc. etc. etc. Not doing it !

No guys ! . Have you not learnt ! . It requires skill and time . Me not do . Me want easy option . Me want less work not more .

Excellent. I take that as a “ go purchase and be damned “ .

Yes . Because my joinery skills are shit 😁 . I know I could buy cheap doors and get a joiner to install . Much prefer I feck it up myself and then fix .