vfrdave

Welcome, there are a few NI self builders on here including myself

@Jimbo37 welcome on board. Not too far away just over the dromara hills.

@SHughesNI I have to agree with what @Declan52 has said about jumping to those who provide the bulk of your work, that is how trades work in NI. You aren't providing bread on their table year round. I had a good mate who is a spark tell me that exact thing "your only giving me one house, if the developer phones I will be away and you will have to wait". I fear that if you can't put up with this few weeks of disappointment you will go through many trades men. The other tale is hound them too much and they will never come. I am in NI also.

Sorted multibloc which I don't think I actually need, but haven't taken away yet, full of crud and totally blocked. Stripped and cleaned now all good. There is another thread here someone re the need or lack of for my multibloc

My mains connection went off today for a period. Service has restored but the only thing I can get water from is the outside tap. Mains into house which goes to a balanced cold supply and thermal store. No outlet hot or cold can I get water from. The mains appears to be getting to the house ok. How do I get rid of what is obviously an air lock

Thanks. I may have to think again unless it is paintable.

What colour is this stuff? I may want to use it around some timber beams for some remedial sealing.

Welcome to the forum, I built close to dromore co. Down a traditional block built bungalow. @Declan52 has given you good advice. Consider the accommodation you want. Then consider the size of bedrooms etc, we found it useful to compare it to rooms we could stand in already to get a better visual idea of space. Lots of architects have the style they always do rather than what the client may want so be careful. The planning portal is a useful resource www.planningni.gov.uk if you have seen a recent build nearby that you like the look of you can generally search and view floor plans and architects details.

Arse about face here unfortunately. Stove and hearth already in and set to allow a 20mm wooden floor to slip under.

Think I have the solution for this. Convinced swmbo to tile it instead so all the same level. Downside is we set the hearth height for the stove with a wooden floor in mind. Just need to figure out how we hide that gap.

Ended up ditching the switch and adding the light to the sensor system only.

I didn't do anything regarding sealing the floors. Covered some with lino remnant. Kitchen floor has been covered and is largely ok. It has been a little dusty but nowhere near as bad as traditional sand and cement. Tile order going in this week.

Still haven't done anything about this. Need to figure out a way. Summer projects have taken over.

So how do you get oil into them when they are a sealed unit essentially. I don't want an oily mess all round them.

Hog rings

All of my draw downs had to go through the solicitor, as stipulated by the bank. Solicitor charged me a one off fee to cover all of them approx £250.

That's we did. Screeders also worked from front door level with laser to set their heights when it was pumped in.

Try F H Brundle in Glasgow https://www.fhbrundle.co.uk/search?query=Gabions

No decoupling mat not used I other rooms. Yes I have UFH.

Going to look again and see Not adverse to using those just will need to scribe the skirting board in the whole room to match height with kitchen.

The issue gets more complex in that if I self level the kitchen to match the height of the wooden floor it throws other levels out. Off the kitchen is the utility, a passageway to the boot room and garage and door to the entrance hall. All of these areas are to be tiled also and thus need self levelling to match kitchen.

The tile we have decided on more or less after a long period of viewing. The wooden floor not so much. Might try and find a 14mm floor which would make things a little easier. Tiles are likely to go down before the wood floor. Kitchen is 40 sq m so alot of self leveling to do. I could live with a oak threshold bar thing, it's how you handle the skirting board.

This is one of the transition areas. Wooden floor is 20mm although not completely decided upon. Add to that some adhesive I guess. Tile is 7/8mm adhesive probably brings it up to 13/14mm. Kitchen is 8m long with a similar opening opposite at the other end.

Looking some assistance. We have a semi-open plan kitchen and living arrangement. The floor of the kitchen is soon to be tiled and a wooden floor put in the living area. This throws up 2 issues:- A discrete and subtle transition from tile to wood given a variance in height. Wood will be engineered at 20mm. There is a continuous skirting board that runs through both rooms. If there is a difference in flooring heights how is this best dealt with.

So what I told you isn't exactly true it seems. Ulster Bank just off the phone. No surveys in Northern Ireland yet as Stormont rules are different. They asked me 4 questions about employment, income and finances since initial application, as well as has the property been built as per initial application. Underwriter will now make a decision as to whether I get my final draw. How this would work for a new application I don't know.