vfrdave

I am in the process of getting final draw down. Valuers are working again apparently with a bit of a backlog. Lisburn & Castlereagh are working and doing video call inspections and/or photos. It may depend what stage of the build though. I would be surprised if they would block you from starting though if you can get approved plans.

@Conor Belfast city sawmills have a mill your own timber offering.

Yes they do and really lovely price tags. I got 16ft lengths of cedar from them to make sliding barn doors for the house. Haven't started them yet but interested in @Conor timber pursuits. Must add cardy were great to deal with.

All works fine without the key just hooked up to a Cisco switch. The key may have some additional features but guest access can be set up without it I believe. What the key gives you is remote access for management.

Another vote for the unifi/ubiquiti access points. I have 3 (one an in wall) in operation in my large sprawl of a bungalow. Will also put on outside at a later date. No 'key' here and works fine hooked up to a switch. Any further advice just shout.

I was going to try the helpline at some stage this week.

Probably best to see if HMRC are processing vat claims. I had my completion certificate issued on Monday, after a previous nonsense outlined in another thread. In the next 3 months I hope I can draw money down from the bank and more suppliers open to get a few remaining bigger money materials to claim back. I'm not rushing to get the money if I can't spend it currently.

So I can't get to the permanent live from the light switch as it is in a flat roof. The rest is accessible from roof space. Can I use a permanent live from another light as long as they are on the same circuit/breaker?

Yes neutral available

I have an outside light beside front door which we would like to add to our sensor system as well as have the existing switch. Sensor system is a GJD so will provide a switched live to light from its wiring center which is easily done. The light switch will also provide a switched live so I don't want to junction box them all together and back feed to the GJD. This is why light and electics planning is essential ?. Is there some sort of relay or contactor that I can use to have a 2 switched live ones out scenario, with the switched lives being independent of each other? Hope this makes sense.

A real concern lots of hardware shops closing today or tomorrow it seems. I'm scared to check with my merchants.

Cabins4u.ie may be worth a look

Static caravan? Gumtree or done deal for a second hand prefab.

I have one or two ball hinges that are squeaking any idea how to cure this. There is a grub screw on the hinge anyone know what this does?

The plan was to put the receiver in the deep back box behind the actual light switch for the one I wished to switch, but I have no neutral there. Lights are all in a vaulted ceiling with no accessible cabling that would allow me to secreet a receiver.

I was going to go down this route but have now discovered I have no neutral in the backbox. Light fittings not easily accessible either in a vaulted ceiling.

@nod did you move the faceplate and the backing plate? I know my 12v ones are 2 part. As @dpmiller says power comes from the wiring center and is independent from the actuator.

Yes I went direct to them.

I have done very similar about a month ago for a dodgy flex which I could have fixed. They sent me back a sparkling brand new drill. I was shocked as the one I had sent them evidently was well abused.

I knew there was someone here had the same fitting. I think I will put a vertical section before the trap and see how it goes.

I believe you are probably right. I will get a straight jointer and extend the pipe vertical.

Yes the centre hollow post is in the middle still. Directly after it is an s trap with a 75mm water seal which then runs vertical for a short bit and turns to track behind the units.

You were too quick, it's there now.

I have a mcalpine twin waste connector like below. It seems to like out through the little air hole on the top. I assume this is not a feature, any suggestions as to why it is leaking? The twin connector is for washing machine and dryer. There is an s bend after the connector is it possible it isnt getting water away quick enough?

I believe spark used esr sline faceplates, I guess whatever his merchant supplies. I would prefer to put a transmitter in the back box.