vfrdave

Got my garage floor done yesterday and have to admit I am not that happy with the finish. In my mind being power floated it should have been very smooth but this isn't. See from the pictures What do you think?

Haven't had mine done yet but joints in doorways is a must. Where about a was your install @Brickforce69

@dpmiller yes CES will put in doorway joints on the day of pour wherever they deem necessary. I believe it is just a bit of rigid or corrugated plastic.

@dpmiller not sure what screed you are putting in, I am putting cemfloor down by CES. I checked with them recently and they said pir around perimeter walls and my choice of pir or 8mm foamed roll on internals. PIR all round may be the more expensive option, haven't priced it up yet.

Interested in this as I am also with proaktive and have extended a few times already and will need to extend again.

As said above I have one of these and it has been a champion. It has however developed an intermittent issue with the power cable, some sort of loose connection which wasnt evident on taking it apart. I havent managed to return it yet as I use it too much at present.

Any pointers on who to order from? Cylinders2go and telford I have seen mentioned.

The 2 ufh manifolds should they get a zone valve each, as well as a valve for rads? Rads and one of the UFH manifolds are adjacent to store. The other UFH manifold is about 15m away. Hot water coil was my thinking as from what I have read less bits needed for that compared to plate heat exchanger.

No electric elements for towel rads.

The rad circuit is only for a few towel rads and airing cupboard so won't be used regularly. No the TS isn't ordered yet.

I have posted previously about some design questions here I have settled on a thermal store with 2 ufh manifolds and a radiator circuit. Looking some direction on my thoughts of how to connect this all to thermal store. - Boiler connected via 2 port valve controlled by tank stats. 2 tank stats controlled via time clock one for summer (no ufh demand) one for winter. - UFH zones and rads off a single tapping from thermal store, or should I separate rads to their own tapping? Either way each will have a 2 port valve. - UFH pumps connected via the switched live from the zone valves, think I seen @Nickfromwales recommend this previously. - Rads will be controlled from time clock and 2 port valve triggering their own pump. Is this correct? Should I do it different, I don't mean ashp instead of boiler? Have I missed anything? As always thanks in advance.

Thanks @Nickfromwales that appears to have helped, though I did manage to spray myself and the bathroom with water trying to create a seal with my hand against the tap.

Doing the floor insulation in the house currently. What should I do for the shower and bath traps. Screed is a flow screed so nominally 50mm deep, traps are deeper than that.

Not by me that's the merchants problem now.

I did and was slatting the quality of some of the boards and I tipped over the edge and rang xtratherm and found out. To say red mist descended is an understatement. Mostly sorted now just offloaded the replacements. The small fact of man days has now been mentioned!

That would indeed be handy. I am currently in the middle of pulling up the 100sqm of insulation laid yesterday as I discovered it is all seconds. Some boards were questionable and then I found out this morning why!

Ground bearing concrete subfloor so I guess the argument is there is a thermal conductivity pathway.

I am in the throes of doing my insulation in the floor. Perimeter strips will be done around external walls. Is there any great benefit in doing this on the internal walls as well rather than just the foam strip? Thanks in advance.

This is it @Nickfromwales in all its glory.

That's the problem there are no isolation valves in sight other than the gate valve to the hot tank.

No filter or service valve just some old plumbing.

Having just looked at the tap again I got a bit of flow on just turning on but then was reduced to a dribble after less than a minute.

Not my house unfortunately, bit rental agent is not that responsive.

It is an old tap @ProDave how do I take this off to check?

Help please In my current property the hot tap in the bathroom has been reduced to a mere trickle to the point it is more or less useless. Pressure/flow was never great but this is horrendous now. Other hot taps in the property are generally fine.