vfrdave

Traditional build here and have given some thought to airtightness. Internal wet plaster is effectively going to create my airtightness. I appreciate the wall/ceiling junction can crack and compromise the airtightness. The issue I have is that through choice in our bedroom block (circa 5.5m x 21m) we will have 34 spotlights. My question is therefore is it worth spending time on airtight membrane to then puncture it in so many places? I will do windows and doors with tape. Please don't send me to the firing squad.

@dpmiller this had me interested but I would probably be looking for a larger unit so timescales wont suit me. Optimistically I hope to be in the house Q4

@Dudda did you find any indication on pricing? I have other material that was sent to me via email which will be available on their website soon apparently.

When I had our roof trusses delivered they lifted a couple of steels into place for me. Most of these guys are willing, you do get the odd jobs worth now and again.

Kwikstage is great stuff easy to get on to the way of it, not so easy on your own but where there is a will there is a way. I never used it before but bought a load and put it up with father in-laws help, both of us novices, when hseni insisted on it for roof construction. Thankfully I passed their inspection when we had it all up.

Great work boys @Nickfromwales @PeterW when are you coming over to do my plumbing and hot press install ?

we shot ours on with a hilti, great job

The hot return scenario, if using manifolds for hot water distribution does this help with this scenario?

some of the quarries do thermal block I believe. Almost certain CES quarry do one.

I even understand the above having put wireless stats in my previous house. Think I need to have a stab at drawing out my design to fully understand it.

Elaborate on this for my simple mind specifically the 28mm-22mm-15mm This is the bit that concerns me more, convincing him to put a TS may not be so bad but the controls is the difficulty. I dont want to end up with the conundrum that @newhome has with her TS and controls. Not having any RHI in Northern Ireland makes this more or less a non-starter for me, plus I like my slate roof too much to now cover it with PV panels.

I will pick this up later again, heading out with the girls.

Welcome sir

I assume you say this because of potential long runs? I'm not limited to having tank/store in plant room, was thinking more store 1

I have been avoiding this post for a while and also been busy doing other things at the house. I need to sort out my heating design and it is proving difficult with varying opinions here in the land of the hotpress. I have a plumber who I am relatively happy with and comes highly recommended we just need to bottom out the design somewhat. Above is the floor plan and I have posted on this previously a long time ago, never thought it would take us this long to get to the point we are at. We are going to have UFH throughout along with towel rads in bathroom/en-suites, feature radiator in reception (I don't anticipate this putting much heat out) and provision for radiators in the garage. This will all be fed from an oil boiler (gas is not an option, ASHP I have ruled out and PV wont be happening). I understand that oil and UFH are not conducive for optimum performance but measures can be taken to alleviate this. The default position with almost all plumbers and heating designers here is to just feed the UFH via blending valve straight from the boiler, I hear @Nickfromwales scream what about short cycling on a boiler that cant modulate like a gas one (I have read plenty on here already). Some just don't get it is all I will say. Others agree to disagree. My options are as I see it:- Oil boiler with buffer and UVC. Question here is what size of buffer? It was suggested to me 500L but that was then going to also feed a UVC which I couldn't quite get my head around. Other option as I understand would be a 400/500L thermal store to do the lot. Any time I raise this in discussions no-one understands why I might do this if I have no wood burner etc dumping heat into it. Are there any other options? I dont really understand it all myself and my head has gone to mush with all the reading I have done. I fear my plumber may run for the hills if I dictate too much of the design to him. Please help!

I feel your pain, nearly 4 hours in bathroom showroom last week. Too much choice and that's just for toilets. Wall hung, enclosed cistern etc Rim less, comfort height, semi-comfort height Never even considered the flush plate

Thanks @Declan52 as always This makes it sound much more interesting than the subject matter is.

Can you plaster over the split tape (the green stuff) or do you have to use a different tape? @Declan52 you probably can advise also

This is a great thread, buildhub well and truly in action as a collective community. I have spent to much time reading this when I should have been working on my own house getting ready for windows. It has however frightened the life out of me regarding UFH & DHW heating and storage threads. I feel a lengthy post coming on later to get mine designed properly.

@Declan52 @Nickfromwales thanks for the advice and humour directed and us poor paddys. I fully agree Jeremy, I was in the states on business when the pipe work was done and concrete laid. I was able to call it out from photographs at the time but the then contractor did not rectify. This was the start of a slippery slope for the contractor who very shortly afterwards was relinquished of his responsibilities. Unfortunately I have been left to pick the pieces up.

@Declan52 @Nickfromwales To give some more context the pipe in the bathroom is 2 3/4 inches off the wall, first picture. The other one in question is 10 inches, second picture.

I need to measure them to be fair. One toilet will be a close couple toilet. The other is a back to wall toilet, this one come to think of it the pipe is too far away from the wall and the corner of the room were the toilet should be. Kango isn't an issue, how do you start to join below the floor in a tight space?

Unfortunately yes 150mm insulation 60 mm screed or thereabouts.

Any guidance on what the placement should be. Didn't seem to concerned about shower and sink wastes just the toilets. Need the Welsh one for this @Nickfromwales hopefully not feeling too robbed from the weekends rugby.

Can someone advise what the placement of the waste pipes for toilets should be. Mine are concreted into the subfloor rising vertically for toilets to be attached. Toilets will back onto walls so what distance from the wall should the waste pipe be. Suspect that 2 of mine are too far out based on prospective plumbers comments, he didn't offer up a solution. Not sure I fancy having to dig concrete subfloor up to adjust/join pipework.