JFDIY

I've used JTM plumbing for some bits, based on price and they did long sweeping bends I was after

Its the postage that makes it expensive, since your prompt I did a bit of searching around and I have found a fairly main stream builders merchants who have it for the same price and they're only 15mins away from my route to work, so will go next week.

Is that the same as the blauberg stuff (bright green as well) if so I've got some. Let me know the minimum length and qty and I'll dig out what I have.

I've seen loads of waste pipes that sag between supports, so I've packed and strapped mine to all the joists at 400 ctrs. However I'm now wondering if I've over restrained them from thermal movement, it's all solvent weld, the run is 1.5m of 50mm then another 1.5m of 40mm to an AAV. Don't want it breaking the joints, but solvent weld is mega strong to I'm probably over thinking it.

Careful use of a heat gun will let you bend the overflow pipe to be square should you need to

Looks ok, I always try and rod them if in any doubt, that's all you need to be able to do, the effluent will flow through regardless. you could always, move the chamber closer to the last inlet, spin the chamber 45 degrees with a bend where is connects onto the main run so that the main run through chamber is at 45 degrees to your build, then you can have two rest/long sweeping bends straight from stacks into the chamber. Might need a couple of shallow bends but it'll keep BCO happy A normal 45 bend (single socket) bend straight into a chamber is easily rod-able Edit to add, leave as is, just on the last leg put the 45 close to the chamber then the swept 90 up the same as the other one, it'd be easier to rod.

Does anyone have an alternative sealant to the orcon F, which is amazingly good, but I can only buy at a kings ransom type price.

125mm bungs are available for about £15. I can find them on eBay and with builders merchants, if it were me I'd be getting rather than making do. You could always (space permitting) use a rubber band coupler to get to 100mm then fit a blank end in that.

I think you need something like a Testo 417 with hood kit (it's what I bought). Or a vane anemometer and road cone.

Although shown diagrammatically as above is it possible that one contactor switches two phases for reverse. My lathe has reverse, but a separate mechanical switch to flip the windings. Run lathe backwards with rear toolpost or for parting off with upside down tool, stops it digging in.

Depending on your worktop, if it's solid you can get the hole perimeter for the hob recessed, so a item slid sideways doesn't crash into the edge. But if you ever replace the hob in the future you might be stuck with that brand or have to go bigger.

I can't tell how much of the above was tongue in cheek? I've read a few articles over the years and although counter intuitive, they all suggest the full nut on top. This makes a bit of interesting (though some might say boring) reading https://www.boltscience.com/pages/twonuts.htm

But which one goes on first?

Piece of cake with a rotary laser level and receiver

Thanks @nod, I'm not overly familiar with laying large format tiles to be honest. The underside of the tray is far from flat, around 30mm of slope, so wondering how you accommodate it in the bedding mix without using two bags of adhesive.